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peteski

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Posts posted by peteski

  1. Those photoetched lamps with clear resin dome seem to be getting quite popular (they have been used for a while by resin model manufacturers like NEO).  They are nice but to me they look a bit dull and 2-dimensional.  Real headlamps are very reflective (after all they have a mirror-like reflector inside).  I much prefer lenses like mk11 shows. they look 100% more realistic.

  2. I bought that Auburn kit several years ago and considered building it. But just recently, after again looking over its flaws (mentioned above and also misshapen grille and few more things), I decided that it wasn't worth the trouble. Instead, I went on eBay and found myself a slightly damaged Franklin Mint diecast rendition of that car for a really good price. What a huge difference in appearance. The Franklin Mint model looks so much better!

  3. I bought that Auburn kit several years ago and considered building it. But just recently, after again looking over its flaws (mentioned above and also misshapen grille and few more things), I decided that it wasn't worth the trouble. Instead, I went on eBay and found myself a slightly damaged Franklin Mint diecast rendition of that car for a really good price. What a huge difference in appearance. The Franklin Mint model looks so much better!

  4. I actually I find the opposite to be true: To get the most realistic photo of a model I use macro mode on my camera with the widest setting on the zoom lens (which would be considered a mild wide-angle).   That exaggerates the perspective and also gives the longest depth of field (I also use the smallest possible aperture setting).  The exaggerated perspective makes the model seem longer and larger than it is (which makes it look more like a real car).

    Telephoto lenses (or zoom lens which is in the zoomed in position) flattens the perspective making the model look stubby.  That is exactly opposite than what I'm trying to accomplish.

    But when taking photos of models with consumer-grade cameras (even at the smallest aperture setting) results in a fairly shallow depth of field which makes some parts of the car, and also the background or foreground  out of focus.  That also is a dead giveaway that it is a photo of a model.  If I want the maximum depth of field (so all the parts of the photo are in focus) I take a series of photos of the subject with every photo focused on different part of the subject and/or background. Then I use Helicon Focus software to merge that series of photos into a single image where everything is in focus.  Yes, using a tripod is a must.

  5. There is a pretty complete history of the company available on https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Life-Like but it only seems to concentrate on the model RR part of the company.  They also produced and sold N scale model railroad items.  As Dave Van mentioned, they did sell al decent range of non-model-RR related plastic kits in the '70s and '80s.  Not sure if all, but at least mostly from other companies molds.

    I also found the Lifoam connection interesting. All those Styrofoam coolers were made by their sister company.

  6. Wouldn't ML be 1050?

     

    ML would be 1050 whereas 150 would be CL.

    You are correct guys - I had a late-night brain fart.  :D

     

    I just noticed that the thread title was changed to "MI" That is 1001 in Arabic numerals, and still wrong. :wacko:

     

    To be honest using Roman numerals is silly.  They should just stick to the Arabic numerals (that is the ones we use in English speaking nations).  Or if they really want to be different then use some of the pretty numerals like they use in Thailand or Malaysia.

     

    512px-Numeral_Systems_of_the_World.svg.p

  7. Plain clear-film decal paper is for decals made by either hand-painting the images over the film, or printing using dry or wax inks/toners (laser printers, Alps MicroDry, or Xerox solid ink printers).

    For ink jet printers (which use liquid inks) you have  to use decal paper specifically designed to work with liquid inks. That type of paper has the clear film, but on top of that film it also has a special ink-absorbing coating.  That layer absorbs and retains the ink where it was printed.  If you try to use the plain clear-film with an ink jet printers the ink will just bead up on the paper surface.

    As far as sealing the image after printing goes, that is required for ink-jet-printed decals. That ink is water-soluble and if not sealed it will run when immersed in water.

    Laser-printed decals also benefit from sealing after printing because the toner deposited on the clear film will often flake off when flexed.

    Alps MicroDry printers use wax ink which is waterproof and won't flake off, so no sealing is needed.  By sealing Alps-printed decals all you are doing is adding more thickness to the clear film.  But the Alps-printed decals should be coated with clear after being applied to the model (because the wax ink can be scratched off easily).  The clear coat (after the decal is applied to a model) will also hide the clear decal film.

    I've been printing decals on Alps printed for over 10 years and I have never found a need to apply clear sealer to the printed sheet - only after the decal is applied to a model.

     

    Also a word of warning: Never use the ink-jet paper in Alps printers. That ink-absorbing layer is not compatible with the Alps printer - it can cause broken ribbons or even worse, damage to the print head. Alps used to include a pink-colored sheet with the new printers warning users not to use ink-jet print media. That warning sheet is usually lost when buying a 2nd hand printer.

  8. The original EasyOff, Bleche White, and Purple Stuff all work well because . . .  they all contain lye as an active ingredient. That is the stuff which can remove paint and eats aluminum (which is really what that "chrome" is).  Doing this in a warm area also makes the lye work better.

    Bleach and ammonia (Windex) might work but not as well.

  9. I have not run into Faller CA (super) glue. But I have used their solvent cement for styrene.  Like others said, thhat glue dows not use an accelerator and only works on styrene and similar plastic.  And as far as accelerators go, all accelerators for CA glues work with all brands of CA glue.

    If you aren't sure, give the glue a sniff test. CA has a very specific odor - If you even smelled CA glue you'll know what it is.

  10. I found those 1/43 Monogram '67 Corvette and 427 Cobra a major disappointment when they came out. They were a pain in the you know what to build. And I would not buy them again if they ever reissued. But, 1/24 scale kits originally talked about in this thread, I'd love to see them come back. 

    Scott

     

    I found the Monogram Ultimates to be wicked awesome models. They were molded very well with lots of details, vinyl tires, chrome parts and even a set of photoetched parts. Even the packaging was well done. For the price it was a bargain.  The problem is that U.S. modelers aren't into small scale models - they all want 1:24/25 scale cars.  Too bad that they didn;t sell well and more weren't made.  Here is one after many hours of enjoyable modeling.

    Workbench7099_zps97a78a5c.jpg~original

  11. I asked a young co-worker, who must use the word "awesome" at least three dozen times a day, "If everything even halfway cool is 'awesome,' then what do you say about something that's REALLY impressive and amazing and maybe at least a little bit scary?"

    "Oh," she said, with no hesitation whatsoever, "that's 'epic.'"

    So there's your free preview of the next word that will be overused into complete meaninglessness....:rolleyes:

    If you lived in New England (especially in the Boston area) you would hear people use the word "wicked", as in "wicked good" or "wicked awesome!" :D

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