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Posts posted by peteski

  1. 3 hours ago, DeanF said:

    I like the idea of wiping down with isopropyl alcohol or mineral spirits, what do you use to wipe it with that won't leave lint?

    Blow the lint off using compressed air.  If you have a compressor make sure that oil/water trap is installed so the air is clean.  Or maybe use those "blow-off" aerosol duster cans.  If the lint is really stuck on, use one of those (again clean) makeup brushes while blowing the model clean.

  2. 2 hours ago, Bainford said:

    Rubbing alcohol is isopropyl alcohol. The only additive is water. 91% isopropyl alcohol is rubbing alcohol that contains 91% isopropanol and 9% water. 

    Not always.  Some brands of rubbing alcohol also contain other (lubricating) additives for easier rub-downs.  Better to just go for the bottles labeled "Isopropyl alcohol".   And yes, I'm aware that (likely distilled) water is added to dilute the IPA to whatever strength it is sold at.

  3. I wonder if those are fisheyes? Those are often caused by traces of silicone contamination.  Did the primer pull away in those spots, down to bare plastic?   The body might need a wash in something stronger than Dawn.  You could try 91% Isopropyl alcohol.  But stay away from Rubbing Alcohol - it has additives.

    I assume you will strip the primer.  That process itself might be enough to wash away any contamination.  I'm also wondering if there is something in your nitrile gloves causing this?

  4. Growing up in Poland I also build several paper models. There was actually a periodical with paper models in each issue. It was called Młody Modelarz (Young Modeler). Some larger kits took up more than one issue.  I remember being impatient waiting for the next issue to complete the model.  I remember building a helicopter (fairly large, probably 1:48 scale), and a WWII era destroyer.  That one was split into multiple issues, and it was quite long (probably around 24"). Unfortunately both models are long gone.

    • Like 1
  5. 2 hours ago, stavanzer said:

    This whole debate makes me cringe. OOTB builds seem to have been a solution that pleases nobody except those who live to follow rules, and then enforce those same rules on others.

    I think I'll avoid ever labeling a kit build "Box Stock' just to stay clear of the issue.

    Not sure why the hate.  Most contests have this class for modelers who simply want to build a model as it came from the kit's manufacturer, without any aftermarket items added. Some modelers just want to keep their builds simple, or they don't feel they have the skills to come up with a model will fairly compete in standard classes.

    Since it is a judged class, the rules are there so someone doesn't sneak in a model with extra details added.

    Here are the rules my club uses for that class:

    BOX STOCK: Finishing materials such as paint, metal foil, flocking and/or aftermarket decals are allowed. No other modifications or added details are permitted except as follows: Putty may be used to fill seams and/or to correct manufacturing flaws such as sink marks. Removal of details such as door handles, chrome trim or incorrect/extraneous underbody details are also allowed. Kit instructions MUST accompany the entry.

  6. 6 minutes ago, 1972coronet said:

    Every time I've used Testors Wet Look Clear, it flashed (dried ?) in a dull - maybe semi-flat - finish. After colour sanding and polishing, it bore a nice gloss. 

    Interesting.   Here is my model. Yellow plastic body airbrushed with Tamiya fine white primer, nail polish metallic blue, and Testors Wet Look Clear top coat. It want on smoothly and glossy. No rubbing, no polishing. Maybe it was humid when you clear coated and it "blushed"?



    • Like 2
  7. I have never seen (Testors) Model Master paints attack or etch polystyrene or ABS plastic kits.  Even applied without a primer. I have painted  many kits over bare plastic using Testors and Model Master paints. Those paints are mild, specifically formulated for plastic compatibility.  Unless of course something changed in the last few years. Still, these hobby paints are sold as such.

    Are you sure it is not the primer that is etching the plastic?

    • Like 2
  8. 19 hours ago, 1972coronet said:

    I'll grab some 99% IPA tomorrow.

    That is not something you'll likely find in a supermarket of a pharmacy. They usuaklly carry 91% IPA.

    Look for it in the paint thinners isle of your hardware store.  Ive seen it called 99 IPA or Isopropanol 99. Will probably be about $30/Gal.  The price got jacked up during the COVID pandemic and has  not dropped.

    • Thanks 1
  9. 3 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

    And resold for $10 for a pack of three as "scale fuel filters".

    PS: Not all diodes have a "glass envelope".

    PPS: Resistors have been used to represent fuel filters on model cars for decades too. Small carbon composition resistors (once very common and cheap) painted silver or another color, look close enough to aluminum-can or translucent-plastic fuel filters to pass quite nicely.


    Thanks. I am well aware that not all diodes have glass envelopes - that is why I specifically selected 1N914. 1N4148 is a similar diode.  I've been involved in electronics for over 45 years (both professionally as an electronics technician, and as a hobby).   And I also agree that all sorts of items unrelated to plastic model car kits are used for detailing.  Just recently we had a thread about this (and I also use non-modeling items for detailing my models).

    Many aftermarket parts companies repackage various non-model-related items for use in modeling.

    • Like 1
  10. 20 minutes ago, Richard Bartrop said:

    One of the companies that sold detail parts for model cars used to sell resistors as scale fuel filters

    I believe they were diodes, not resistors. Diodes have glass envelope while resistors are not see-through.  The small diodes actually do make good fuel filters.  But yes, the point is that electronic components can be used in our hobby.  Just like some use wire wrapping wire for scale ignition wires.

    Here is a 1N914 diode, They can be had for few cents a piece from electronic parts distributors like Digikey or Mouser electronics.



  11. While more sad than irked, I'm bummed out that Little Motor Kar Company has shut down. The last company that was re-plating model car parts.

    But I'm also irked at myself for having bunch of parts I wanted to send out to them and procrastinating!   I still prefer vacuum metalized parts than painting them with one of the several available "chrome" paints.

    • Sad 1
  12. 8 hours ago, SDC said:

    Well, I received an answer (in blue).  It seems like they are very laid back, and many of you were spot on with your recommendations. 😀

    Lol, the debate of the century...
    you can have the hood open, closed, on the table next to it.  Just realize if open, everything is judged.  Can't scratch build parts or add wires.  The best thing to do is lay the hood next to the car.  That is what I've seen at other shows.
    Try not to over think as we're pretty laid back about things.  Some car clubs or car shows are pretty strict about stuff, but we try not to.  As long as you try to meet the intent of the category, we're happy.

    Yes, as I mentioned, every club is different, that is why to avoid problems it is best to ask someone in the club.  Looks like you are good to go, no matter what method you choose.

  13. That is not a good news (but yes, not unexpected).  I was planning on sending out a batch of parts to Dale. Looks like I waited too long.

    I wonder if RMCoM is heading that way too? None of us are getting any younger, and nobody younger wants to take over the business.  I think big part of the problem is that these are not big profit operations.  Nobody gets rich plating model parts or making resin castings.  It is more like labor of love.

  14. 4 hours ago, Beans said:

    That is what I always experienced too.  Figured out that in order to get a totally opaque image you will need a printer that prints the actual color white.  Or use the white decal paper and get really good with an exacto knife

    That is exactly it.

    Most computer printers (ink jet and laser) print using 3 translucent inks (cyan, magenta, yellow) and opaque black to produce a wide range of colors, but since they are translucent, they also require that the print media be white (like paper).  If you print your decal on clear decal film and apply the translucent image to a non-white surface, the color of the surface the decal is applied on will affect the color of the decal.  You need either opaque inks (not feasible in home printers) or white film decal paper.

    Alps MicroDry printers are home printers which are capable of printing white ink and overlaying color inks over that, producing decals which can be applied to any color surface without affecting the final color.  But those are long discontinued and quite pricey of you can still find one working. They also use ink ribbon cartirdges which are getting harder to find and also expensive.

  15. I think most modelers do not use acrylic.  Stuff they colloquially call "acetate" is likely PET or PETG plastic. You should be able to find sheets out there that are 0.010" thin.  Polystyrene (like the range of sheets from Evergreen) also come in clear, down to 0.005" thick.  But that material scratches rather easily, so it is not an ideal windshield material.

  16. 27 minutes ago, ewetwo said:

    I had about 10 cans unopened cans do the same thing. Now the testers model glue pours out of the tube. So I have to keep wiping it on a napkin until it stops before I proceed. Seems like Rustoleum is trying to ruin the model car hobby.

    Actually both Rustoleum and Testors brands are under the umbrella of RPM.  I don't think they are set on ruining the hobby (that would be detrimental to their business an making profits), and simply some bad decisions have been made when producing these items. 

    Fortunately the hobby is healthier now than ever - there are multiple lines of hobby paints and adhesives out there, so we no longer have to depend on Testors or Pactra, like we did in the old days.

    • Like 1
  17. 5 hours ago, SDC said:

    I'm a curious guy in general, so I've been wearing the poor guy out who listed his contact information on the show flyer, but he has been very nice and answered each question I've had so far.

    I went ahead asked him about the hood propping as well, so I will probably get an official host club answer soon.

    Thanks to everyone for the info and suggestions!


    Looks like you chose the most direct and most definitive route.  When in doubt - ask the organizers. Over the years I have attended multiple shows organized by different clubs and I observed that the contest rules for various classes vary a bit from club to club.  That is why it is the best to get direct answers and not depend on anecdotal information in an online forum (which included some interesting and creative ideas for propping up that hood).

    As for poor lighting John has mentioned, yes that can be a case too (where hood off the model would be the best option), but I have also seen judges using mini-flashlights to closely examine model interiors or engine compartments.  Like I mentioned, every contest is slightly different.

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