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Posts posted by peteski
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Does earning the TamiyaCon Master Modeler title count?
While the title was a very nice and unexpected surprise, the trip to Japan was awesome!
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I could quit smoking. But I'm not a quitter.
I was wondering when this would show up.
Sure, you're nor a quitter, but in the long run you might be a loser.
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Very nice additions (as usual). So with English Language signs and European-style trailer, does the diorama represent some location in UK? Or are there other countries in Europe where English language is used on signage?
The style of the warning signs looks American to me, but maybe it is an international standard. I live in US and until you added the forklift and the trailer, that diorama to me could have easily depicted shipping docks in USA. -
Both FedEx and UPS use USPS for the final part of the delivery for certain kinds of shipments. Service like FedEx SmartPost is one such example where FedEx and USPS are both involved in the shipping process. UPS does the same thing but I don't recall the name of that service. But just lat week I have received a package which had a UPS shipping label with both UPS and USPS tracking info on it.
UPDATE: I think that service is called UPS Mail Innovations
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Warning about masking tapes: some off-brands after couple of years turn brittle, the adhesive dries up and turns into powder. On other brands adhesive "melts" and starts oozing out. If you use masking tape in permanent applications (like seat belts or vinyl tops) at least use brand-name one (like 3M). They have better quality adhesive.
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I usually buy a 1 gal. can and using a funnel I pour the thinner into 1 qt. can. Then I use a turkey baster to dispense from the 1 qt. can into a smaller container for my current paint job. I use a whiskey glass because is it bottom-heavy, very stable. and easy to clean.
WARNING: Make sure that the turkey baster is either glass or a solvent-resistant polypropylene. Some basters I've seen are molded from clear polystyrene. Thinners such as acetone or lacquer thinner will attack and melt polystyrene. I prefer polypropylene as glass can easily shatter.
Polystyrene is usually crystal clear, hard, and has a somewhat metallic sound when tapped. Polypropylene is slightly milky or cloudy in appearance and it is not as hard. It also produces a duller sound when tapped.
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Looks great!
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All I can say is this belongs in a museum. How gorgeous...
It belongs on the road! It looks realistic enough to start the engine and take it for a drive!
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I have also never used any resin which doesn't have a 1:1 mix ratio. I buy the smallest possible size kits but I still wish that they made even smaller resin sets available for purchase because I do end up throwing some away. I use the "extend" gas blanket and keep it in cool place, but the moisture still gets in the resin.
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I use Bondic a lot for small parts and no mold release is required. It is advertised as a "glue" but it hardly sticks to anything.
That is the funny part - in commercials they use it to bond things together, but their website is http://notaglue.com/ and the FAQs on that site also mention that fact several times.
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Like you already found out, there is no standard display base design shared between manufacturers (or sometimes maybe even between different production runs from the same manufacturer)!
The only sure way to get the clear cover that fits your base would be to find another Hot Wheels model just like it which has the clear cover. If this particular run of the model did not include the clear cover then you just have to keep looking for a match. Or bite the bullet and just put the model in the case you bought. You could probably trim the model's base so it fits in the case you bought..
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Nice build and weathering.
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You can get frisket material that's essentially a sheet of masking film with a sticky back that comes on a removable backing. Illustrators use it for masking.
I've been using it to make masks (using a cutting tip in a compass) for painting nice clean round whitewalls on vintage piecrust slicks.
You may have to do some experimenting to find one that's compatible with whatever type of paint you're using though.
Frisket material (still on its backing) doesn't seem to be sturdy enough to be feed through one of those cutting machines.
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For foil-casting things like emblems or door handles I used 5-minute epoxy.
I don't see any viable alternatives for larger pieces. Other materials either shrink when drying, take forever to dry, or are too soft/flexible or fragile to be useful. 2-part resin is IMO the only option. It hardens by chemical reaction (not by evaporation of a solvent), it is very thin when liquid (allowing it to easily fill the mold) and hardens to a durable material.
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If the sticky side has transparent adhesive (so the seat belt color is visible, you could stick it to a piece of Saran Wrap then cut the belts out.
Another idea is to remove the adhesive. Naphtha (Ronsonol lighter fluid) should soften and melt this type of adhesive, but it might be messy. But the adhesive backing might also be preventing the material itself from fraying.
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Cut your own... It's easy.
You too?! You're in trouble now!
BTW, Tamiya tape is also not crepe . . .
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I wholeheartedly agree that the metallic particles in that line of paints are way too large (especially on a 1:43 scale models)! What were they thinking when they came out with that line of paints?
This problem is especially noticeable when taking photos of those models. They look like dune buggies or bass boats with metal-flake finish.
As mentioned, often the metallic flakes themselves contribute to the final color of the paint (they aren't always just gold or silver).
I don't think straining will work (even if you found mesh with opening small enough to prevent the particles from passing through. Why? because the mes will quickly clog with the metallic particles and won't pass any of the liquid through. The other problem is that paint is so viscous that it will not be able to easily pass through those small openings in the mesh.
I have a piece of mesh on the end of the suction tube of my airbrush and it also can clog with metallci particles wile I'm painting (using metallics with very fine particles).
What you could try is to let the paint sit for few days. Metallic particles usually settle down on the bottom of the jar. Then just pour the top part of the paint out into another jar. But if there is some pigment, that might also be on the bottom of the jar.
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Exactly, these cutters can be used to create custom-shaped masks. Things like window masks or flames can be cut out of masking tape (which will be placed on a backing sheet then feed into the machine).
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Metal cutting is out of the question. They are designed for paper and thin cardboard. But like already mentioned, many modelers use it to cut or score thin styrene. Model railroaders use them for cutting out walls of buildings.
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I've used it to clean parts, too, but I found it can leave a very slight "oily" residue, so, like you, I use isopropyl alcohol mainly for that.
That's odd. And the Naphtha was fresh(not reused)? I used both, Ronsonol lighter fluid and VM&P Naphtha, and when fresh out of the bottle they leave no residue at all.
Now most of the time I use Naphtha for degreasing N scale model locomotive parts. Those are made from Delrin or similar plastics (resistant to most solvents).
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Ah, the fun with social networking.
Good luck with that.
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I love the forklift, but I'm not really crazy about the lettering on the building. I don't like the typeface and the letters seem too thick. Maybe a printed sign would look better?
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I use Naphtha on styrene and on ABS all the time (usually to clean/degrease it) with no ill effects. But I don't soak them in it. But I use 99% Isopropyl alcohol on clear styrene parts as Naphtha does seem to slightly dull clear plastic's surface. Alcohol does not.
Master Modeler?????
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted
That pretty much sums it up. My official title at work is "Master Engineer" but that really doesn't mean anything. It is just one pay-grade higher than "Senior Engineer".
But like Harry said, being a Master of your domain is definitely good thing.