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Posts posted by peteski

  1. From that picture it looks like Pale Gold would be a good match, but I have that Alclad paint and I don't think it is as intensely yellow as the photo above shows. The Inca Gold looks like even better match.  Problem with the Testors paints is that the metallic particles in them are rather large and they look like metal flake paint instead of metallic finish.  You might want to browse the fingernail polish section of your local grocery store or drug store - you might find something that works.

  2. When I was growing up in Poland in the 70s we mostly had Matchbox models (and of course the various models from the Eastern Bloc countries).  I did encounter few Hot Wheels cars but they always looked odd to me.  Now as an adult I can clearly see that most (but not all) Matchbox cars of that era were nicely-proportioned scale models of real vehicles, where Hot Wheels were more of a whimsical fantasy automobiles rather than scale models of the real vehicles.

    When I emigrated from Poland I sold all my diecast cars.  But I have since then rebuilt some of my collection and even added models which attracted me as an adult.  I like to mention that Tomy diecast cars also depict rather well-proportioned scale replicas of real vehicles. I also have several Tomy models in my collection.  I addition, I have several Matchbox Super Kings which are mostly diecast models of larger trucks which are close in scale to the standard Matchbox passenger vehicles.  Most of those are fantasy vehicles (they look very futuristic), but there are few (like the gasoline tankers) which look like real trucks.

  3. It's 50 outside today west of Philly. I did a few outside chores including changing a headlight bulb on the LaCrosse.  Why did they have to make that a major pain in the tail?

    It's a Buick - do I have to say anything else? ;)

  4. I used 0.010" styrene painted satin black.  Looks like a rubber mud flap.  To keep this in perspective, a 1:1 rubber flap us probably around 1/4" thick.  That works out exactly to 0.010" in 1:25 scale!  If you make them thicker then they won't look right.  I also has some black rubbery material of about that same thickness (anti-static bag for electronic parts).  I made mud flaps out of it but it didn't hang straight down. While it was nice and floppy, it didn't look realistic.  The 0.010" styrene looked most realistic.

  5. One of these moments I'm glad I don't have a wife to answer to.

    I'll just slip one of my friends a few bucks and ask her to go get them for me. 

    This is a great idea, and I can see it working pretty well.

    Charlie Larkin

    My GF shops for nail polishes, with me.  For painting model cars. She also gave me old pantyhose so I could fill it with rock salt and throw it in the roof to get rid of an ice dam (last winter).  You have to find a good woman guys!  :D

  6. Maybe its old outdated stock, just newly found in an abandoned train car somewhere.

    Neah, there is a UPC barcode on the carton!

    I grew up in Poland in the 60s and 70s and lived in a house pockmarked by WWII shrapnel.  I've been to Oświęcim (Auschwitz) and seen many first hand examples of the war damage.  I also learned the painful war history in school.    So, it is not like I'm not familiar with the atrocities of WWII.  Yet, I think this blanket ban on swastikas or other Nazi related symbolism is just going too far.   Everybody seems to be offended by everything nowadays. Swastikas are banned from model kit decals in Germany.  You'll never see a swastika on a model on a cover of any modeling magazine.  IMO, this is all part of history. If used appropriately, I don't see any problems with it. Just don't glorify the Nazi methodology.

    Even the silly uses like on that ice cream in India shouldn't cause anybody to get their knickers in a twist - I have a feeling that not much premeditated thought was put into naming that ice cream.  I say: come on - lighten up.

  7. I didn't translate the text on that webpage - the photos already tell the story!  It looks like the model was 3D printed.  The only slight hint that the photo is of a model are the headlights: the pattern on the lenses looks too uniform, and the real headlights are way more sparkly.  But none of this takes much away from this superb model.  Even the windshield wipers (the usual giveaway of a model) look 100% realistic to me.  The thin "glass" also greatly enhances the realism.

  8. I've been collecting nail polishes for use on model cars for decades.  There are some really good "car colors" available.  I usually shop for them with my GF.  Plus, like others mentioned, other beauty shop supplies are really good for our hobbies. I use the multi-grit emery sticks and pads and also the resin used for acrylic nails.


    I have around 100 bottles of nail polish in the stash!  Here is a recent model I used nail polish on:



  9. ...and now for something completely different...


    Sometimes when I'm in the mood (while in my workshop, or doing stuff on the computer, or just relaxin') I put on some of the early works of Jean Michael Jarre.  It is all good.  Albums like Oxygene, Equinoxe, or Magnetic Fields.  I like a bunch of his later stuff too, but the early albums are my favorite.

  10. If it is the one I'm thinking of then I do visit there occasionally but I sure don't want to stay there (or look for something that didn't happen in the last few days *NM*)


    I don't ever recall getting the 404 error here.   404 means that the website you are trying to read from is still online and responsive, but the URL you passed to it is invalid. (it is usually caused by a problem on the website itself - not on the user's end).

  11. I'm loving it in the Boston area!  After last winter of the Century I will be happy never to see snow again!  Just tonight we again escaped what could have been several inches of snow (it was in the 50's and raining).  Christmas day it will be in the 70s! I'm thinking that since I had a metal roof installed on my house in May and I just bought 4 new tires for my car, it's a safe bet that I'll see very little snow this winter! :D

  12. I agree and, just for the record, my wife and I are both non-smokers. 

    What really surprised me about this particular model was the speed with which those decals turned yellow. I've got models on the shelf built in the late '60s and early '70s that have exhibited some degree of yellowing. But this model was built and these decals used LESS than two years ago!

    It could just be due to whatever substance they used for the clear decal film. Maybe it is simply prone to yellowing when exposed to air or it slowly reacted with  the  clear-coat on your model.

  13. It sure would. The yellowing is caused by the glue ageing and breaking down. If you examine old decals, it only occurs underneath the decals themselves, not the surrounding paper. The water activated glue is similar to what was once used on lick n' stick postage stamps.

    But that water-soluble glue you mentioned is evenly applied to the entire decal paper sheet (not just under the film of each decal image).  IMO, it is the clear film itself that yellows (not the adhesive).  Or maybe the adhesive reacts with the clear decal film causing yellowing?

    Like you, I had success bleaching the unused yellowed decals using sunlight. I have not tried UV-bleaching the ones applied to models.

  14. Exchange rates have nothing to do with the cost of the kits here in the USA,   take a look at the cost of US kits in Japan,  they are almost double to what they sell for here.   The prices have everything to do the cost of import/export.


    I wouldn't say "nothing to do with the cost". That is bull. Of course the monetary exchange rate influences the price of imported and exported goods. It is not the only influencing factor, but it does influence the price of those goods.


    Plus, the price in Japan is not all that much higher than in U.S.  Lets take a 1/25 2013 Mustang Boss 302 Revell Muscle.

    http://hlj.com/product/REV4187/Aut   List price in Japan is 4400 Yen ($36). IN USA, the kit has a list price of $26 (see http://www.sears.com/revell-monogram-rev4187-1-25-2013-mustang-boss-302/p-SPM2549009921 ). I would say that this price difference would be reasonable for all the export/import duties).

    But the Miata has a list price of $49 in US, while the Japanese list price is 3200 Yen ($26) at the current exchange rate.  As you see the markup on the Japanese kits in US  is much higher than US kits in Japan.

    I'm using list prices because discounted prices because that is a good reference price to compare.

  15. I prefer the first and second generation Miatas, but I have to admit that this looks like a sweet model!  Plus you can't go wrong with Tamiya.


    Isn't it funny how the US Dollar/Japanase Yen exchange rate has become very favorable (dollar is much stronger), yet the prices of models imported from Japan and sold in US do not reflect this at all?  You have to go directly to a Japanese online vendor to reap the benefits of the favorable exchange rate.

  16. To me that looks like some sort of bad reaction between the nail polish and the primer.  I use nail polishes for painting model cars and I thin the nail polish with lacquer thinner, or PPG medium temperature reducer.  Many (but not all) lacquer thinners contain acetone but each manufacturer uses different lacquer thinner formula.  I think that using pure acetone to reduce nail polish might make it a bit too "hot" for painting plastic models.

    I also use a plastic spoon to test for possible problems with the paint I'm using.

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