peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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As Art mentioned, 3D printed prototype mock-up are already being extensively used in the industry. 3D-printed masters for resin or pewter cast models are also already used by several companies. In time I'm sure that more and more companies (or cottage industries) will be using that technology. There are several 3D printing technologies and dozens of printers which vary in printting resolution from really coarse to so fine that the printed items look like they have been injection-molded. Of course the cost of the fine-resolution printouts are much higher than the low-res ones. But if used as a master, it pays to invest in a high-res printout.
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Thanks! These are one-off decals printed on a friend's color laser printer for my own model, I'm not going to print more or sell any.
I love the woodie look Bob! I you aren't planning on making more decals, how about sharing your decal artwork?
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I recall seeing his name in modeling magazines. I'm very sad to hear of his passing. My condolences to his family and friends.
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Wow! Scoring this kit for $41 is the steal of the century. I paid over $100 for mine and thought I had a good deal!
Oh cool! I guess I did get really lucky! http://www.ebay.com/itm/262669983929 There is another one currently on eBay with BiN price of $99 (I guess that is closer to the going price then).
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2-stroke engines have been running without conventional valves for probably 100 years. Cars, motorcycles, lawnmowers, chainsaws, etc. . .
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FXD
As I understand, Shapeways uses ProJet HD 3000Plus printers for FUD and FXD printing.
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Dirt/grunge/mud/dust is usually tan/beige/gray, so using washes or chalks using those colors will give you the effect you are looking for.
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You're killin' me Harry! I was really good not buying any more kits (I have more than I can build in my lifetime, and here you go and post your build of this car. I was ale to resist until you showed lacing the wheels. Those are gorgeous! Now I want to get that model kit - even if only to learn this very interesting lacing technique to make it work on some custom wheels I would like to make for some of my other kits.
So I went on eBay and I found one of these kits listed, ending at 11pm EDT. I ended up gettign it for $41. I think I got a bargain. Now I can learn that lacing technique (and maybe even build this cool model someday). -
I'm a bit confused about this voltage gauge thing. In the cars I have dealt with a voltage gauge is a voltmeter hooked up to the main power distribution junction in the car. It doesn't specifically read the alternator but the overall health of the 12V electrical system. If that type of a gauge dropped to zero volts your car would stall as there would not be any power available to power the engine ignition or rest of the cars electrical circuit. Usually when alternator no longer charges the battery the voltage drops from around 14V to under 12V (since it is running just from the battery).
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Cool diorama - I see nothing wrong. There are a lot more explicit and bloody scenes on network TV (do we still call those stations "network TV")?
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What has been seen cannot ever be unseen! Yuck! It is even uglier than a Pontiac Aztek!
Until now I have never seen any photos of the real car or the model. Now I don't ever want to see it again (although I seem to notice some vague resemblance to a Fiero, which is a decent looking car).
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Is it their FUD or FXD material? At least that is what those are called in USA.
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The diorama is really well done (you have the knack to capture motion frozen in time) but the the photos seem distorted somehow (like the aspect ratio is off).
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Before anyone gets too critical, the red car I showed was done that way by design for the Rat Rod CBP.
It was never intended to look like a concourse restoration. You're probably the first to notice that detail.
It is your model Steve, so you can obviously do as you please. I was just pointing out what jumps right out at me (maybe I'm extra anal, but that's usually a good thing when building models).
It just seems lately that I have seen not properly aligned lenses on several factory-stock models. If I was judging them I would deducts points for that. -
This one was build with the M.V. lenses:
This one was build with Krystal Klear over the molded lenses:
(unfortunately the Krystal Klear wasn't totally dired when I took this pic)
-Steve
The MV lenses have very realistic looking reflectors, but the smooth lenses don't look realistic. Headlamp lenses (used in the standard U.S. specs headlamps) have optical facets molded in the glass. Lack of that detail really kills the realism. I've scribed the facets into the MV lenses in the past but it is a tedious process which (since it is done freehand) is not perfect.
Speaking of the headlight lens optics (facets), I see lots of modelers not paying attention to how those facets line up. In real cars the headlamp unit is keyed to only fit in the headlamp holder one way. That is because the headlamp optics produce asymmetrical beam of light. If not installed properly the headlight could blind incoming cars, or not illuminate the road properly. The general rule is that the majority of the lines (facets) in the lens need to be perpendicular to the road surface. If they are not the realism is lost again. The above model has the lines in the lenses not perpendicular to the road. It might look cool, but it is not realistic for a road vehicle.
It doesn't take any extra time or effort to properly position the kit-supplied lenses, but it makes a big difference in realism.
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Is Humbrol Varnish a true varnish (resin dissolved in alcohol), or is "varnish" just a generic British term for a clear lacquer or enamel?
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I sprayed Humbrol enamel on a Moebius Chrysler 300 body with no primer, and didn't experience any crazing.
Well yeah, that is a plastic-compatible paint specifically made for plastic (styrene) models.
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Real - that was easy.
For me the stitching on the back of the seats looks 1:1 scale. But if I'm wrong and it is a model, it will be large scale (1:8 or larger).
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Same experience here. The paint dries but remains soft for years. When I contacted Jameston he sent me a bottle of hardener to mix with the paint. But since I din't need to paint anything at that time I just let the bottle of hardener sit. It ended up hardening in the bottle. So I guess the non-clearcoat paints are 2-part paints which need hardener (catalyst?) to set them hard. I prefer less hassle hobby-paints or automotive touch-up paints.
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As a bit of a packrat I save various glass bottles from used up hobby paints like Testors and Floquil. Alos the glass Gloss and Dullcote bottles (those IIRC are 1.5 oz.). I have also bought empty Floquil bottles (from Micro-Mark). Another source of all sorts of glass bottles (and zillion other packaging items) is http://www.freundcontainer.com/ . I buy bottles, cans and jars from them. Surplus materials vendors also sometimes have all sorts of small bottles available. Check out https://www.sciplus.com/ .
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Greg have you thought about contacting Moebius?
I have a feeling that their reply will be to "use plastic-compatible paints". Honestly, we are playing Russian roulette every time we use hot automotive or general-purpose spray paints.
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1990-1991 Ford LTD Crown Vic/1987-1989 Chevy Caprice
in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
Posted
You are making some incredible progress Robert!
As far as the front light reflectors go, could you make them more parabolic shape to closer represent the 1:1 headlights? Thar will greatly add to the realism of the model. Headlights are one of those areas which are often not done correctly on models, destroying the realism.