peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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Well Skip, you and Jimmy are true artists - most of the modelers are just ham-fisted butchers who love to take shortcuts.
After years of working with the leaf stuff you guys have the technique mastered. For me, as the ham-fisted modeler, the BMF stuff works just fine. But there's nothing wrong with someone doing their model chrome using silver leaf technique. I build models to have fun. I don't enjoy polishing the paint jobs, so I don't. Looking at Jimmy's tutorial I can see that I wouldn't enjoy spending the time on doing silver-leaf, so I won't. Yes, I can tell even without trying it myself - Jimmy's excellent photo-tutorial already told me what I needed to know for making my decision. But if that is something you or Jimmy enjoy doing - all the power to you.
I don't think that any posts on this thread were putting the silver-leaf-techinque down. At least know that I wasn't - I was simply saying that is is not for me.
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As new generations come of age, things change. We're just getting old.
I remember saying to myself that the battle was lost when in the '90s I started seeing pedestrian 4-door Japanese or German sedans souped-up to look and sound like race cars! Lowered suspension, beer-can exhaust, etc. High-performance 4-door sedan? Gimme a break!
At least some car companies recently brought back some real muscle cars and made them look like the real muscle cars from the '60s. But they probably doing it just to cater to the older generation (with money). -
Someone mentioned this earlier in the thread and I agree with him. I don't mind lots of photos and long drawn out threads on a build but what makes me pass on a thread is all the oohs and aahs, posted after every update by the builder. Good example is the Army Vega Funny Car thread. It documents a truly mind-blowing build. The details are stunning and the photographic contents is amazing. I could actually learn about how the real Funny Cars are built (since I'm not familiar with those), if I could read through the 200+ pages of posts. I try, but after about 10 pages I just get discouraged and go elsewhere. Why? Because for every build update with photos there are about a dozen posts of oohs and aahs about the update and about the model. While I agree that the build is incredible, the ratio of the actual updates to praising posts is way too low. If most of the praises were deleted, that thread would actually be readable. I'm not saying here that the modeler is not very skilled or that the model is nothing but incredible - just the signal-to-noise ration in that thread is just too high for me to read it.
I suspect I wouldn't have as big of a problem with it if I followed it from the beginning, but when I joined this forum, that thread was already well underway. I also don't see any good solutions to this, unless maybe the forum could introduce a "like" rating for a post. That way instead of the posts praising the update, members could simply "like" that post. The total "like" count could be shown in the post's header.
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Speaking of weird patterns, I once owned a '72 or '74 Dodge Duster Super Sport (still a slant-6 and automatic) which was painted beige with a genuine snakeskin vinyl roof! I bought it as a beater for couple hundred dollars in the '80s. I'll never forget the snakeskin roof!
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Looks great! What scale is it?
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That feature was also implemented on cars which were produced later. The 1948 Tucker's center headlight was linked to the steering, and so were the hi-beams of the Citroen DS and SM from the '60s. Even a mid-2000s Citroen C4, C5, and C6 havw headlights which pan to follow the direction of the car.
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I like colors too but I keep buying white cars - to me any car looks elegant in white, and on white (unlike on black) dirt and dust doesn't show up). I also own a Caddy which is nice metallic blue with white Landau top and white interior.
While not very many, there are still wild colors available for contemporary cars. I see some bright oranges, blues, lime-greens, and even wild purples (all metallic). Also many new muscle cars come in pretty vivid colors.
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Sorry, I'm not buying the explanation, other wise the top of the can would show the same dents.
Cheers,
Lance
Lance, the top of the can has a different shape. It is not a smooth dome which can be dented as easily as the bottom.
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Kurwa! That is the the best kind of mustard to have with kielbasa wiejska or fried kielbasa biala with some czarny chleb and sałatka ziemniaczana.
I like the one from Cracovia also
Nice! I see you still have good taste (in whatever taste buds are still working after eating some of the hellish stuff)!
It's a good thing that the filter in this forum does not screen for foreign naughty words. -
These kits are rare and they fetch a lot of money on eBay. Does anybody know what happened to the tooling for that kit?
With all the recent MPC re-releases it would be nice to see that one brought back too.
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Oh yea, a course ground brown mustard. We used that in Nebraska on brats and polish sausages. Never bothered with a bun. Just a blob on a plate and dip the wiener in and enjoy! Also the only way to enjoy a runza! Lots of kids in the area who's names ended in -ski.
Now this is the good mustard!
I am a Pollack right off the boat (um, in my case it was a jet airliner), but I never heard of runza in my neck of the woods. Had to look it up. It is of Russian origin and it seems tasty.
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I'm 6'1", 145, same waist size since 87'. But I had a wicked forehand and double handed backhand back in the day
Hundred forty five? Eh, you're just a lightweight, with a wicked good arm!
This brings up something that I have been thinking about for years: Those agitators are made of glass and when they bang against metal, it might be possible that flakes of glass chip off and contaminate the paint. The ones I rescued from the empty cans (shaken much less vigorously) do show signs of impact with the metal (small flaws). I wonder what the onels in your cans look like. I wonder if you would be willing to cut open one of the cans with defromed bottom (after it is empty and depressurized of course). I'm curious about the condition of those agitators.
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Never been to NYC but know about mustard on fresh pretzels!!! A hot pretzel with good mustard is a treat!
Yes, In New England (at least in Eastern Mass. and Southern NH) we also put mustard on pretzels. Unfortunately many vendors only have the crappy yellow mustard. I like it darker with more kick to it.
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That is so cool - thanks for sharing! This is probably the youngest kid I've ever seen assembling a model kit (and allowed to use real tools). I have feeling that he will be a modeler for life (with the usual sabbaticals during his teens and when and if he starts a family).
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It looks more like a model than a real car.
I was thinking the same thing.
It seems to be a mash-up of various kit parts (like someone kitbashed a model). It has somewhat Open GT-esque flavor to it (plus bunch of other flavors thrown in).
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Wow! This thread has been the most amusing (and interesting) threads I have read in a while!
To add to all the other responses, I have been using spray cans for decades and this has never happened to any of my cans. I have also never seen anything like that before this.
The above photo seems most telling. I would say those bulges are caused by the vigorous shaking and the agitators hitting the bottom of the can. The distinct depressions are clearly visible. The odd thing is that the tops and bottoms of cans are made from thicker metal than the side wall, so you must have a superhuman strength to be able to make the agitators achieve enough speed (kinetic energy) during your shake stroke to actually dent the bottom of the can! Are you a body-builder? Seriously!
I have taken many empty cans apart and they all seem to have couple of glass ball (about marble-size) agitators. The location of the bulges seem to agree with where the agitator would contact the bottom if it was moving right against the side of the can.
You are one powerful dude! Ease up on the shaking bro! Or if you have wife and kids, ask them to do the shaking for you (unless your entire family is atomic - then ask a neighbor)!
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Like Curt said, making a mask from the decal (photocopy or even hand-tracing) would be the way I would go. Then paint and apply decal after painting. I'm also curious as to why the edge of the paint cannot partially go under the decal (so the edge of the decal defines the demarcation line)? is the decal not opaque enough?
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That engine looks YOOOOGE!
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The other thing that comes with my advancing age is wondering what will become of my collection after I'm gone. My two sons have no interest in my "toys". My 1:1 Mustang GT and '46 Chevy truck and Harley, and my gun collection are no problem as they will split all of that. But, the plastic mountain in my cellar, I fear will be dumped on the curb!
I belong to a model club and we lost few members recently. What the club did was to either buy the deceased member's model collection or auction it off. The proceeds then went to the widow. It was a good chunk of change (even if the models didn't fetch all that much).
You might also consider selling some of the ones which aren't your top favorites on eBay or some other similar website. That will give you extra funds to buy paints and modeling supplies to keep building (unless of course you already have enough of those too).
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We have days here where it's in the 40s one day, and 75-80 the next.
Looks like that saying is more widespread than Chicago and New England.
https://www.google.com/search?q=You+don't+like+the+weather%3F+Wait+five+minutes
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If you are constantly running out of the red-tube Testors glue then you are either building lots of models (dozen a month) or you are painting the entire model with glue. Most kit instructions state to use glue sparingly.
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I'm sure most of you have heard the old saying about the weather in Illinois...
You don't like the weather? Wait five minutes... it'll change!
I don't think so! That is exactly what we say in Boston about the New England weather!
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Totally stupid and useless. Let's find ways to cause MORE accidents in this world..... As if we don't have enough!!!!!!!!!!
It is not about being nice - it is always about maximizing profits.
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there's a brand called Feeling43. They have the most intricate 1/43 kits I have ever seen. The cheapest kit from them I have come across was about $650, an they go up to $950. The problem is these kits are not like 1/24 kits, they require a lot of work and skill to make into nicely detailed models. Soldering, machining, etc. You can slap them together, but they'll look like a die cast.
here is the Facebook of a guy I follow where he has multiple photo galleries that show the steps involved: https://www.facebook.com/Rosso43-762838000500578/?fref=ts
There was Feeling 43 - they closed shop several years ago. When still in production, the kits fetched from a $100 (basic) to few hundred for the super-detailed kits. They also sold hand-assembled versions of their kits (in very limited quantity) and those sold for thousands. Now, because they are gone, the kits have really outrageous prices!
But as you said, those kits are all little gems with gobs of details, but you have to be a true craftsman to build them. They are nothink lils typical plastic kit. But if they are built properly, they are tiny masterpieces,often with more details than many 1:24 models.
Tameo is another company which makes really nice 1:43 kits.
The pre-assembled models from NEO are relatively inexpensive because they are assembled in China, and they don't have the same level of detail as Feeling43 or Tameo kits. All NEO models are curbside slammers (no engine and no under-body details).
Some examples of Feeling43 level of details. This shows you why they are so expensive (they are about half the size of 1:24 scale models).
At least some car companies recently brought back some real muscle cars and made them look like the real muscle cars from the '60s. But they probably doing it just to cater to the older generation (with money).
It's a good thing that the filter in this forum does not screen for foreign naughty words. 
Round2 kit issues
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted
I also use those Scotchbrite pads instead of steel wool (I don't own a gun).
As far as the bluing goes, I suspect that it is a fairly hard coating (harder than the metal used in steel wool). That is why steel wool will clean the rust off but not touch bluing. But Scotchbrite pads are some sort of non-woven plastic fiber coated with fine abrasive material. I suspect that the abrasive material (aluminum oxide maybe?) is harder than the bluing, so it abrades it.