peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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The Demise of Alps printers has been greatly exaggerated.
There are still many Alps printers out there chugging along (including mine). If you go to http://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/decals.htm and then scroll down to the section titled Custom decal companies you will find several customer decal makers. That list is fairly up to date.
But remember that simply scanning a decal as a bitmap and then putting it in a PDF or another vector file format will not magically turn the scan it into a vector graphic format.
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I didn't know there was 99%. I'll have to look for that. Thanks for the tip.
If they don't stock it at your local friendly hardware store, then can custom order it for you.
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me2! Btw what do you use to play cds? I kind of born the wrong times--- nowadays portable cd players just out of production, and i really hate to buy second hand....
At home I have an old Akai component system stereo from 1980s: 2 cassette decks, CD player, equalizer, receiver and a timer. I also have DC player in my car (2006 Scion xB - same car as Toyota bB). I don't have any portable DC units but I really have no need of one of those.
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I did some maths, so 120 F = 48 C??? omg.....
Yes it is almost 49 C! It is getting a bit toasty in some parts USA this Summer.
Some say this is global warming, others call it global climate change. Some think it is a natural cycle, others that humans contributed to the warming. Yet others say that it is just some random occurrence. Then there are also those who just stick their heads in the sand. You choose which you believe.
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something like this..
That is a classic Zeppelin!
It is good to know that I'm not the only person in the world who still buys and prefers CDs to MP3 downloads.
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91%-93% is generally the strongest that's available commercially in drugstores and the like. 70% is more commonly available, but it's pretty much useless as a stripper...though it works very well as a cleaner.
Eh, those are weak!
I get the "good: stuff, IPA99 at a local True Value hardware store (in the paint thinners section). It is 99% IPA and sold in gallon containers. Not very expensive either. Works even better than the others and still just as safe on Polystyrene or ABS. -
I think I get what you are asking (but it wasn't obvious).
Unpainted plastic looks like . . . unpainted plastic. If you are ok with that, then leave it bare. but f you want the plastic parts to look like the material original car parts are made of (usually metal, either bare or painted), then you paint the plastic parts too.Having said that, I have seen some good looking models which had unpainted bodies (they were just polished). But that only works on certain colors (often the lighter color plastic bodues are somewhat translucent and they will look "plasticky", even when polished).
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This is not something that irked me specifically today, but I just thought of it.
Some people's emails have a very annoying tag on the end. Things like "This was sent from my Verizon 4G smart phone", "This was sent from my super iPhone5", "This was sent from my wonderful Apple iPad", or similar. I really don't give a rat's-a$$ what device you are sending your email from! To me this is just gloating about how much of a technology-whore you are. Oooooh, I have a wonderful iPad! Fine, you can sit on it!
All I care about is the meaningful contents of your email - I don't need to know how you sent it.Peteski
This was sent from my supercalifragilisticexpialidocious Dell Optiplex, Win XP SP3, Seamonkey 2.33.1
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You could get even better light distribution using white-color walls (not aluminum foil). It seems sort of counter-intuitive, but it works.
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Funny thing. I have found out that Rustoleum in fact makes Testors enamels...
Actually the parent company, RPM owns both brands (and many more). They most likely are produced in separate factories using totally different formulas.
Here is a list of all the brands they own: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RPM_International
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With flat paint spray cans you really need to shake the bejesus out of them. The flattening agent settles down and needs to really be agitated well to get back into suspension. Shake it vigorously 3 times as long as you think it is necessary.
Then test-spray onto a cheap plastic spoon to verify how it looks (before spraying the model). -
Tenax 7R is basically Methylene Chloride. IPS Weld-On 3 is pretty much the same stuff (but much less expensive). I get it usually in 4 oz. or Pint size cans from my local True Value Hardware store. But (like anything else) it can be purchased online. Here is some good info about the IPS adhesives: http://www.eplastics.com/plexiglass_glue
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I don't think the IRS scam is related to any data breaches. I think the scammers just call either random or sequential phone numbers. As far as faking caller ID, most of the scammers and sales-pitch callers do that. It is really easy to do. The best one I've seen so far is when the Caller ID showed my own phone number calling me!
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That is an odd li'l fellow. Looks like it is sulking. The steering wheel comes up half way up the windshield. It would be interesting to actually see a driver inside it hanging onto the steering wheel.
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I tend to agree. I'd get it right on a 1/12 or 1/8 scale model, but probably wouldn't bother on anything smaller.
Very helpful thread!
I like to use the correct firing order, even in 1:43 scale.
I also scratch-build the ignition coil and made some spark plug boots (which aren't really visible on this engine). But I have to fess up that I didn't wire up the primary side of the coil to the distributor or the 12V ignition lead from the firewall to the distributor - I couldn't find insulated wire thin enough to look in-scale for 1:43. -
I honestly dont know, fire dept said it was an electrical fire, I have not had a chance to look at it yet.
Ah, sounds like the device which fried protected its circuit breaker from blowing.
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Heard that the Governor declared today, June 7th as "Prince Day" in Minnesota.
At first I thought I'd heard "Prince Spaghetti Day"
No, that is on Wednesday!
But like you, that was what I thought I'd heard too.
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The propellant (butane or other gases) partially exists in a liquid state (mixed with the paint). When decompressed rapidly as when punching the hole in the can and then removing the awl out of the hole, that will quickly decrease the pressure inside the can causing the propellant dissolved in the paint to start turning into gas (boiling). That will cause the paint to foam up and it will come out through the hole. Think of what happens when you shake a can of Coca-Cola and then you open it up.
This can be done, but make the hole as small as possible and after puncturing, keep the awl in the hole, using it to restrict and cotntrol the release of pressure. When done slowly, you won't lose too much paint. Also be sure to do this in some area which will not be messed up by paint splatter and wear face protection and old clothes (just in case).
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Relative humidity is not the only factor we need to consider when painting. There is a difference in 54% RH 65 deg. F, and 54% RH and temperature of 80 deg. F. The combination of those 2 values gives you the dew point. I would have no issues spray-painting when it is 54% RH and 65 F but doing that at 54% RH and 80 F is a bit risky.
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Some of the prices you are seeing is for multiple bottles. Otherwise, they are all the same product. For some inexplicable reason, the makers have changed the name and label several times.
That's merchindising for you. Companies need to constantly change names and update the packages. It is happening with most of the products around us. I also think it sucks! But the ad agencies hired by the producers need to earn their big bucks somehow, so they redesign packaging or change product names. Very silly (to me).
Actually in this specific instance company mergers or brand reshuffling dictated some of the changes.
Of course whenever someone mentions this magical liquid, I can't resist pointing them to . . . http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
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Looks good Mike, but what about killing the shine on the tire tread?
For some reason, it really jumped out in those photos. -
Why not tell us which kit this is? Did it have instructions? What do the instructions show? That entire fender assembly looks a bit wonky to me.
Unpainted plastic looks like . . . unpainted plastic. If you are ok with that, then leave it bare. but f you want the plastic parts to look like the material original car parts are made of (usually metal, either bare or painted), then you paint the plastic parts too.
All I care about is the meaningful contents of your email - I don't need to know how you sent it.
Then test-spray onto a cheap plastic spoon to verify how it looks (before spraying the model).
For some reason, it really jumped out in those photos.
Mythbuster--Red "Bleed"
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted
That is exactly what I was going to say. Over the years there were many different formulations of polystyrene and dyes used to tint it. Plus, different companies use different sources for their raw materials. Next are dozens of different paint brands which modelers use (and those paints can have different chemical composition). So what Snake proved was that the red dye in the plastic piece he painted and the paint he used did not react. But that is a very small sample of what is out there.