peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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I have never been successful bonding Delrin to anything. I employ mechanical bonds (drilling and pinning) or heat-welding (melting) parts together.
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A 2016 issue featuring the 2015 contests?
For several years my club used to send photos to MCM with out contest photos but they were never published (while Scale Auto Contest Annual always features several pages of our photos), so we gave up on MCM.
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Then, there are those who prefer a textured, natural look
Wasn't there an old SNL skit (in the '80s) featuring a Chia-car and Clay-car (body work on that one was a breeze)?
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Usually, to get the listing fee waived, you have to have some sort of monthly subscription. Be it one of their sponsored listing programs or store subscription. If you want to add a reserve price on an auction, they charge you. They get you at the end when your item sells. I usually end up paying eBay $80-100 a month in fees on about $900 in sales.
They do run sales from time to time where the casual seller can get free listings though.
Ebay makes (and always did make) money in the end - I never questioned that.
But the new fee structure enables BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH like what I described above to go on. Someone is able to re-list the same extremely overpriced item for years at a time without having to pay anything to eBay (until it sells). That's my beef with eBay.
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Here is a good example of the craziness the current eBay fee structure creates (no listing or initial price fees whether the item sells or not).
I've been watching this little gem on eBay for over 2 years now. Listed for $129 with no takers. They keep re-listing it continuously while in the meantime dozens of the same model are being sold in a range of $10- $40 dollars. Here is one currently available for $30 BYN.
Why do I care? Couple of years ago I started looking for that model (I used to own a full-size '77 T-Bird). I found that $129 listing but I kept on looking for something more affordable and found one for $15. When I asked the $129 seller what makes their model worth $129, they (as expected) ignored my comment. So I decided to watch their listing and they are still looking for that sucker who doesn't know any better and will buy a $129 Matchbox-size diecast toy.
If eBay had their old fee structure still in place, this type of activity would not be happening. It is as simple as that. And nobody can convince me that the $129 seller is not simply looking for a sucker who has more brains than money. I don't think that this is what "the American Way" to do business means.
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Caswell Plating has a wide range of small electroplating kits for hobbyists (and lots of supplies for larger jobs too).
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Interesting, the similar MM version is ~$13 were as the Archer is ~$18. So much for mark ups I suppose.
Maybe then like SfanGoch suspects, those could be cheap Chinese knockoffs (or a similar product line). (I added the "Chinese" part).
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I blame it on the sledzie.
That smells kind of fishy if you ask me.
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If it's anything like the 1:1 replicas formerly made by LS, it's probably made from ABS. They weren't intended to be painted after assembly.
ABS is a type of styrene plastic. Organic solvent based paints stick to it very well with no scuffing (again as long as the surface is clean). Some automotive models are also molded in ABS, as are model trains (and I had no problem painting either).
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The hood fit of this kit brings up an interesting point that I have mentioned in other threads. Harry, I know you do not compete but your models are definitely contest worthy and no doubt contest winners. I would bet money that if you were to put this model on a contest table, spectators as well as judges, would say "what a nice model, too bad the hood does not fit right". But the fact is the hood on the prototype didn't fit right either. My point is, older race cars are seldom pristine racing machines and if you build a correct replica, you are more than likely going to get dinged in a model contest. I have actually placed a picture of the real race car's "wart" next to my model so that the judges could see that my model was built to replicate the real car.
That is why there is a "documented replica" class in the model contest my club puts on. You provide photographic documentation of the prototype car you modeled and it is judged (among other things) on how close to the prototype car your model is. The ill-fitting hood would actually earn you points!
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Now this thread is getting really BLAHSKI_BLAHSKI_BLAHSKI silly!
EDIT: and I've edited nuthin'
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And a little reminder that "distinctive" is not necessarily the same as "good"
YUCK! I always wondered what were they thinking when they approved this vehicle for production. The more contemporary frog-eyed Nissan Juke seems to be in the same category as Aztek.
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Yes, that kit has amazing amount of detail. I also have one of the large tour buses Revell made few years back. Again, lots of well-made parts. One of the reasons I haven't even started either one is that I have no place to display them.
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Harry, the MRI machine is so loud because it is pounding you with a very strong magnetic field. You are basically sitting right in a center of a very powerful electromagnet. Probably much more powerful than the ones which pick up entire cars in junk yards. When they turn on the current, it the windings make that loud noise. They had you remove all metal objects before going into the tube, right?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Physics_of_magnetic_resonance_imaging (very interesting read). -
I can see we have a person here that likes to hijack others thread
who ever wrote Blah Blah and so on in my posting your are a real funny guy however o know how to hijack a thread or to say edit the thread I know who you are here is a clue HIgh..
Don, this forum is family-friendly and it has an auto-censoring feature which changes any words in the post which are on its "naughty" words list into BLAH_BLAH. So, nobody edited your post except for the forum software itself.
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To be accurate, that is a subway ventilation grating. This is a sewer (manhole) cover
Even a sewer manhole cover is made in India?! This country is in a deep (sewer) hole!
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A Corvair with a hormonal deficiency...
Are you calling it a midget?! It is a cute "baby Corvair".
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Those look just like Archer rivet decals. Micro-mark often resells products from other companies (often charging a markup). Archer has a wide selection of 3-D decals besides rivets. They sell things like weld lines and raised numbers too.
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Why do we need to sand plastic? I good wash should work really well to get it prepped for paint. Of course if there are flaws or flash, that needs to be sanded off and smoothed, but no need to sand the entire body. I have never sanded the entire plastic body before painting (but I do give them a really good wash in dishwasher detergent without any hand moisturizers in it). Organic solvent based paints (even the mild plastic-compatible ones) have plenty of "tooth" to bond really well to bare un-sanded plastic.
But if the plastic gun is made of some slippery solvent-resistant plastic, then I guess the only good option I see is to sandblast it. I have a badger Air-Eraser (wuth aluminum-oxide abrasive powder) for jobs like that. Then there is a adhesion-promoter which comes in a spray can. It is designed to be sprayed on plastic car parts (like a flexible bumper cover) before painting it with the final color.
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That is so wicked cool!
If that is 0 scale, the Shapeways model probably cost a pretty penny!
I rode on that train years ago when they were still running all-steam. What an experience! On the way down the conductor asked for volunteers to operate the car's handbrake, so I stepped forward. I had a blast! The car is not coupled to the locomotive (I was told for safety reasons). Gravity simply keeps it tightly pushed against the locomotive. The game the conductor has me play was to operate the handbrake in such a way to keep the car's buffer separated from the loco's buffer by few inches. It was tough at first, but then I got a hang of it.
Yes those locos have a slanted boiler since they always operate on a steep incline. Here is a photo of a real one:
For additional info click here.
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No photoshopping, Pete. It's one of a series of pictures from a "branding" photo shoot for F.E. Castleberry:
Well then, that explains the artsy-type photo with a shallow depth of field. Still, it just doesn't look right to me.
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My irk today is the emission test/tax. I am the original owner of a 2004 Dodge diesel that has tested zero or next to zero emissions. I was just told they won't test it because it has no catalytic converter. It never had one from the factory and still put out next to nothing emissions. I had unkind words with the technician and plan to find someone knowledgeable with 2003/04 Cummins that run so clean catalytic converters were not necessary. By the way, they were only required on newer models because of regulations not need. I hate government!
Government is ok - it is the stupid clueless government that irks us, right?
That makes no sense to me. If a 2004 truck was sold with out cat. converter and they require one now, shouldn't it be grandfathered? Or do they expect owners of ever such truck to have a cat. converter retrofitted at their own expense? That is weird.
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I remember these. It is just so cute!
Distributor & plug wires
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
You should try doing it in 1:43 scale!