peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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I think it's kind of cute in a dorky sort of way...
Yes, you've captured what I was thinking but couldn't describe.
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He will probably need some nipples too.
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I also heard that modelers use this stuff and like it so I decided to give it a go.
I tried once and never again - still have the roll in my workshop. While it worked well as a mask for large areas, after it was removed it left plenty of the sticky adhesive on the model! It was a mess! The funny thing is that I didn't even use it for masking paint - I simply applied over the model to protect it from fingerprints while I was handling it. So it is not like the paint was not dry, or the solvent from the new coat of paint somehow permeated the wrap and dissolved the glue.
I say: stay away!
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You have a point there. Most of the "unreliable" ratings given to today's cars are due to electronics and gizmos, not mechanical reliabilty.
Does it really matter whether the problem is mechanical or electronic when the car is unable to run? Nope! It is broken. All that goes under the overall reliability ratings. Then regardless whether it is mechanical or electronic failure, there are repair costs. See where I'm going with this? The failures might have have shifted from mechanical to electronics, but they are still failures.
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That sure is an unusual design. I'm not sure if I like or hate it. The B-pillar hinged doors are neat.
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I use as few of the paint layers as possible (to improve model's realism). I often shoot plastic-safe paints over clean bare plastic. I use organic-solvent-based paints like Testors or Tamiya sprays. Those solvents do not craze plastic but have enough "bite" to firmly adhere to the plastic. Or whatever they have (as I think this "bite" think is just something modelers made up). The binder material in the paint bonds to the model's surface on a molecular or even atomic level. No solvent "bite" required. If you think about it, even the shiniest surface is really rough when you look at it under extreme magnification. That is where the bonding occurs.
Primers do have their place when the painted surface will be made up from multiple materials (such as mix of plastic, putty, or resin parts). Then the primer coat provides a uniform surface for the paint over all those materials.
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As for glue, you can use epoxy or CA glue.
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I'd say you nailed it. I couldn't figure out the role of the vertical rod on the front -- maybe a drop-down stabilizer to keep the car in place when it's at rest?
Looking at the photo you questioned, and at Harry's finished model photos, I think that the rod with a loop-handle on the end is for manually throwing the turnouts. When I used to ride trolleys in Poland in the '70s I used to love to sit up front and watch the motorman drive it. Every once in a while the remotel-controlled turnout would not throw as expected. He would stop the trolley car and grab a rod just like the one on this trolley (it was stored inside the trolley). Then he would go out to the turnout and stick the rod in a slot in a metal cover over the switch machine and manually throw the turnout to the desired route.
BTW, nice job on the model Harry!
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I believe that Modelhaus "chrome" is all done by the the Little Model Kar Company. Of course the finish will only be as good as the surface of the part itself, so Modelhaus resin parts are really well done.
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Yeah, Peteski. I have a 3-oz. bottle I got from "Chicago Airbrush Supply". I successfully decanted the entire spray-can and after I thinned it out properly (it is still too thick) it filled the 3-oz. jar, and it is still too thick. I did successfully airbrush with it but I had to turn the pressure way up ( 40 psi). Hope it helps.
Thinning paint for airbrushing, the air pressure and needle opening are all something that everybody does a bit different: a skill that you learn on your own. If the paint is thick, you could try to open the needle up more instead of raising air pressure. You might find a a setting which will work for you. Or just add more thinner.
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Use white PVA glue, no problem. It's a non-solvent based adhesive so it won't attack detail. Plenty strong enough to hold lenses, dries to be absolutely invisible if you use it right...and it's easy.
It is not about attacking the details - if any glue oozes out from the perimeter of the lens to under the lens, it will fill in some of the delicate engraving.
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It's short for I appreciate it. I most often hear it used on NNN, the Non News Network.
Ah, that explains why I haven't encountered that phrase.
I don't know if I already mentioned this earlier in the thread but I hate when "ask" is used instead of "question". For example, someone says "What is the ask?", instead of saying "What is the question?". Or "The ask is..." Instead of "I would like to ask you...". That really gets under my skin (coming from my manager during company meetings).
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Irregardless. It's not a word.
Irregardles of the fact that the word is in the dictionary (http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/irregardless ) , I don't like it either.
It really bugs me to hear a newscaster say "preciate it". Stop being cute & give me the news please.
I never heard that phrase, and I don't even know in what context it would be used.
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Reflex could mean that it changes color depending on the viewing angle. But it could also be just a fancy name.
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The Novus system (all 3 types) are specifically designed for polishing plastic, so they are the way to go. Toothpaste is an alternative but it has to be white (not the clear gels). The white stuff is abrasive in the toothpaste.
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To put my 2 cents in: I recently decanted Tamiya laquer and after letting it sit in an open jar (for 6 hrs.?) and I had to add a LOT of laquer thinner to get to the (thin)viscosity AND turn the pressure way up. I probably got at least 4 ounces of paint out of that aerosol can after it was thinned way down.
There is a lot of propellant (propane or butane) dissolved in the paint in aerosol cans. That has to degas before you can use that paint for airbrushing. I never totally leave the jar open - I put the lid on but leave it loose. Decanted paint is usually thicker in consistency than what you normally use in an airbrush.
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Probably. But I used the rod I had on hand, didn't want to bother making a trip.
Guy like you doesn't have a well-stocked workshop?
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Was looking at this photo and it reminded me of the suggestions to make all the bolts silver. They look cad plated to me
You do have a point.
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I listen to Skip.
Not easy to paint something in this sizeYou think that it was difficult to paint? You should try to paint (and decal) one of these models.
The coin is about 18mm in diameter.
But seriously, you did a wonderful job on that Mercedes! Congratulations! About 30 years ago built the 4-passenger version of that Mercedes (which was produced by Pocher before your version of model). At that time I built it mostly stock, so it is nearly not as good as yours. It also took me about a year to complete.
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Funny, several years ago I bough (from HLJ) the set identical to the bp-770 packaged IIRC in "Modeler's" brand package. I have to dig out that set to verify.
One thing I don't care for is that the engraving is done on the inside of the lens. While that is how real lenses are, on models this makes it makes more difficult to glue them in while trying to preserve the delicate engraving.
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The mold releases the casters use are no different then what the injection mold guys use. You never hear you have to soak styrene to get it clean.
if you do a search you will see about a dozen of these threads and I and Art Anderson trying to dispell the myth...
Mark
I was told that no mold release agent is used when injection-molding styrene parts. Go figure. If Art is familiar with injection-molding styrene process I hope he chimes in.
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IIRC, this engine kit was displayed at the last NNL East (along with the entire visible car frame model). It was displayed on a table along the wall with windows. That was a pretty cool looking model!
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Strange that it was cloudy when you decanted it. But if it was humid at that time, the moisture could have also mixed with the decanted liquid (as it really cool down when being decanted).
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Detail Master Ignition wire (per their website) is .012 which per this chart, http://www.engineersedge.com/copper_wire.htm, is roughly 28 gauge (wire diameter). Their battery wire is .019 which is between 24 and 25 gauge.
This is the mistake I warned about in my earlier post (just in reverse). DM ignition wire specs show the overall diameter (of the insulation, not the wire). The wire inside is much thinner than 30 AWG. Remember that in electrical terms the wire gauge is just the wire diameter (not the outside diameter of the insulation) where as in modeling terms nobody cares about the diameter of the wire or its gauge but the overall diameter of the insulation.
Press 'n Seal
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted · Edited by peteski
Why not just plain plastic wrap or even thin plastic bag material? PNS has pressure sensitive adhesive which comes off fairly easy. Now add some solvent from the paint and the adhesive will most likely dissolve and stick to the lip on the jar. Not something I would like to see on the lip of my jars.