peteski
-
Posts
9,286 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by peteski
-
-
I'm loving it in the Boston area! After last winter of the Century I will be happy never to see snow again! Just tonight we again escaped what could have been several inches of snow (it was in the 50's and raining). Christmas day it will be in the 70s! I'm thinking that since I had a metal roof installed on my house in May and I just bought 4 new tires for my car, it's a safe bet that I'll see very little snow this winter!
-
Often it makes sense to print the parts on a high-res 3D printer then use those parts as master patterns for casting duplicates out of resin. The resin-cast parts can be much less expensive to produce.
-
I agree and, just for the record, my wife and I are both non-smokers.
What really surprised me about this particular model was the speed with which those decals turned yellow. I've got models on the shelf built in the late '60s and early '70s that have exhibited some degree of yellowing. But this model was built and these decals used LESS than two years ago!
It could just be due to whatever substance they used for the clear decal film. Maybe it is simply prone to yellowing when exposed to air or it slowly reacted with the clear-coat on your model.
-
It sure would. The yellowing is caused by the glue ageing and breaking down. If you examine old decals, it only occurs underneath the decals themselves, not the surrounding paper. The water activated glue is similar to what was once used on lick n' stick postage stamps.
But that water-soluble glue you mentioned is evenly applied to the entire decal paper sheet (not just under the film of each decal image). IMO, it is the clear film itself that yellows (not the adhesive). Or maybe the adhesive reacts with the clear decal film causing yellowing?
Like you, I had success bleaching the unused yellowed decals using sunlight. I have not tried UV-bleaching the ones applied to models.
-
Funny, this sort of reminds me of the Communist Poland in the 70's (when I lived there). You didn't have to register your flying models, but it was illegal to own a radio transmitter (like a RC transmitter or a walkie-talkie). You had to go through all sorts of government hoops to get a license to operate one of those radio devices.
-
Exchange rates have nothing to do with the cost of the kits here in the USA, take a look at the cost of US kits in Japan, they are almost double to what they sell for here. The prices have everything to do the cost of import/export.
I wouldn't say "nothing to do with the cost". That is bull. Of course the monetary exchange rate influences the price of imported and exported goods. It is not the only influencing factor, but it does influence the price of those goods.
Plus, the price in Japan is not all that much higher than in U.S. Lets take a 1/25 2013 Mustang Boss 302 Revell Muscle.
http://hlj.com/product/REV4187/Aut List price in Japan is 4400 Yen ($36). IN USA, the kit has a list price of $26 (see http://www.sears.com/revell-monogram-rev4187-1-25-2013-mustang-boss-302/p-SPM2549009921 ). I would say that this price difference would be reasonable for all the export/import duties).
But the Miata has a list price of $49 in US, while the Japanese list price is 3200 Yen ($26) at the current exchange rate. As you see the markup on the Japanese kits in US is much higher than US kits in Japan.
I'm using list prices because discounted prices because that is a good reference price to compare.
-
I prefer the first and second generation Miatas, but I have to admit that this looks like a sweet model! Plus you can't go wrong with Tamiya.
Isn't it funny how the US Dollar/Japanase Yen exchange rate has become very favorable (dollar is much stronger), yet the prices of models imported from Japan and sold in US do not reflect this at all? You have to go directly to a Japanese online vendor to reap the benefits of the favorable exchange rate.
-
To me that looks like some sort of bad reaction between the nail polish and the primer. I use nail polishes for painting model cars and I thin the nail polish with lacquer thinner, or PPG medium temperature reducer. Many (but not all) lacquer thinners contain acetone but each manufacturer uses different lacquer thinner formula. I think that using pure acetone to reduce nail polish might make it a bit too "hot" for painting plastic models.
I also use a plastic spoon to test for possible problems with the paint I'm using.
-
Huh? What is Gregg talking about?! I looked over both pages of this thread and I don't see any photos/cartoons/images posted by SfanGoch.
-
As hard as this is for some people to seem to believe, I've checked several stores and none of the Testors cans had bar codes. The stores I've looked in range from Memphis to northern and central Mississippi. And on top of that, there was no correlation between manufacturer codes on the cans and store codes on the tag.
(I'm in retail, btw, and have been since about 1978. Hardware, lumber, grocery and records.)
I just went with what I have and see with my own eyes. I'm not denying existence of generic labels - I guess I just don't own any. Maybe they came from a different production run? I'm puzzled as to the reasons why some company would produce a can of spray paint in a metal can without any means of identifying the contents.
-
Great looking model! As we say in New England: Wick'd awesome!
-
OMG....... LMAO, your killing me here!!!! So then its gonna be "Mangina" instead for this kid in school? (Sorry guys I could NOT resists!)
Now you reminded me of that Jerry Seinfeld episode featuring a manssiere or a "bro"!
Then there was Jerry's GF name rhyming with a female body part -- Dolores? Mulva?
Happy Festivus everyone! A non-denominational HoHoHo!
-
I'm not so sure they are truely amazing, there is no magic. Great game, thanks Harry. Think of something to replace it!
I know there is no magic. I'm amazed at the vast amount of information that is out there on the Interwebz, and the computing power (Google) at our fingertips, which allows us to instantly search all that information.
-
Sorry guys - I had computer problems and couldn't post til today. Yes, it is a model: the old ROG Peterbilt Stepp's CAN-DO wrecker kit. More photos and a writeup are at the URL theotherunicorn provided. The votes were 41/59 (real/kit). Since the subject of the model was a real wrecker I thought it would be a good challenge. I'm sure that the small photo did help to make the kit look more real.
Thanks for the votes and compliments.
Ken, I'm curious, how did you find that webpage?
-
Most of the craziness can be blamed on eBay pricing structure for the listings. IN the old day there was an insertion fee, fee for the amount of opening bid, and then the fee for the selling price. The insertion fee had to be paid even if the item didn't sell. Sellers were much more reasonable and careful with the items they listed and their prices.
Fast forward to today. eBay has no insertion or the initial amount fees. If the item doesn't sell, it can be re listed for free again and again. This leads to sellers coming up with some very strange auction listings which they keep on re-listing (if they don't sell) for months at a time. it is all free!
I have been watching one listing for over a year. A MotorMax 1:64 diecast car which often shows up on eBay and is usually sold in a price range of $5-$40. But this seller wants $130!! He is simply looking for a sucker. I did contact him asking why such a high price when other examples (in a similar condition) sell for much lower price but as expected I got no reply. Free market baby - looking for suckers.
And then there are those sellers who break apart rare old kits, just to sell individual parts from them for big bucks. Don't even get me started on that one.
-
There are 2 types of spray can caps: one type locks onto the inside collar on the can (the metal part where the spray nozzle is) and the other one locks onto the outside collar of the can.
I have only seen the vent hole on the caps which latch onto the outside collar of the can. Maybe the outside collar cap seal is more airtight than the other type (so it needs that vent hole)?
Harry, make note to yourself: never decant spray can paint into the cap!
-
UPC bar codes have been around that long, yes, but did not go into widespread use until the '90s. I know, because I worked on some whole store conversions in the 90s.
That being what it is - the Testor's One Coat paints do not have bar codes. Not the ones I have seen in stores, ranging from mom and pop hobby shops to Michaels and Hobby Lobby. And the cans are new.
Interesting. No barcodes or part numbers? That has not been my experience. Here is a photo with some cans in my workshop (front and back of the labels). Both One Coat Cans are fairly recent (bought in the last few years). The other cans are much older (around 35 years old) They all have both barcodes and part numbers on the labels.
-
Last night I tried the Google image search and it wasn't as good (or smart) as I expected based on what I read here. It does rely on the file name (or asks for some additional hints).
-
I built my share of plastic models of sailing ships but never a wooden one. Wow!
-
I built that model about 30 years ago (back then I wasn't worried too much about fit problems).
I don't remember now, but I think that I bent the center post forward so the glass fit better. Take the front part of the roof which is supposed to snap onto the windshield frame and see how the 3 holes in it line up with the windshield frame. Maybe that will give you a reference as to how much to bend the center windshield post.
-
Tomytec name has been around for a while - they usually make model railroad items. A good breakdown of the company history and their brands is at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomy
-
I think that was called "Swirladelic " or something like that. I think Henry Borger ( ? ) did an article in an old Car Model magazine.
The original issue of the KISS Van in the 70's was painted using that technique. The painting instructions were included with the kit.
-
I guess there will be no more "manning up"
or "growing a pair"
or having "big brass ones..."
While it is not really on-topic, the above made me post this picture:
-
How do you search Google using a jpg image as the search pattern? I never heard of that.
EDIT: nevermind I just figured it out. Yeah, I can see how this makes cheating easy! We sure live in amazing times!
OMG....... LMAO, your killing me here!!!! So then its gonna be "Mangina" instead for this kid in school? (Sorry guys I could NOT resists!)
Revell 1964: 1/8 Triumph Custom Show Bike on the Workbench 11/20/15 : "Outside" finished pictures 12/23/15
in WIP: All The Rest: Motorcycles, Aviation, Military, Sci-Fi, Figures
Posted
Wow! This one is the real 1:1 bike, ain't it? Don't try to fool us!