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peteski

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Posts posted by peteski

  1. 8 hours ago, bobss396 said:

    Once just after Xmas, I spilled a bottle of zip-kicker onto the dining room table cloth... it was plastic and the kicker ate a big hole in it. Good thing the wife was not home...

    Yeah, Zip-Kicker is acetone-based so it can do nasty things to plastic and paints.  I have ditched it in favor of BSI (Bob Smith Industries) CA accelerator. It uses a mild solvent which does not attack plastic, and is fairly low-odor with maybe even a somewhat pleasant smell.

    • Like 2
  2. 4 hours ago, GLMFAA1 said:

    The spelling Karen's are pretty brutal on this forum. Watch out for the grammar Gods.

    On the drying Molotow time is your best friend.

    greg 

    Brutal?  Really?  I've been a frequent visitor here for years and I have not noticed a lot of this happening on this forum.  Is that a problem?  If one is a fastidious modeler, why not be fastidious in your writing?  I'm far from being a perfect speller, but I try.

    • Like 3
  3. 9 hours ago, ncbuckeye67 said:

    I use washi tape a lot in my builds and wouldn't trust it as masking. The adhesive is not very strong, and I'd be afraid of paint leaking under it.

    Do you have any Tamiya tape to compare with washi?  To me they seem identical.  The weaker adhesive is actually a good thing (will not lift the paint).  The benefit is that the tape is thinner any slightly more stretchy than standard masking tapes, and the adhesive layer also seems thinner.

    Lots of modelers successfully use Tamiya tape for masking. But we all do have different techniques and preferences.

  4. 22 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said:

    Decal or decals?    I'm sure they used to be named Waterslide Transfers.

    That doesn't change the question some are asking;  What is included?  Waterslide Transfers, or Waterslide Transfer?

  5. 10 minutes ago, Mike 1017 said:

    Yes. I spay it over bare plastic, primer, basecoat and really anything. I posted pictures of my fingers holding a T-Bird door panel that I sprayed with it. The other picture shows no residue or smears on my finger or the part. I will do it again and post my results.

    Good Luck 

    Mike

    Eat some potato chips before the next test.  ;)

  6. 1 hour ago, Camaro lover said:

     Funny how as a kid I was able to build a model with a partial tube of glue, maybe 1/2 dozen bottles of paint and a can of spray paint. 😂

    Might be funny, but as a kit you likely weren't even using a clear coat, spray-bombed or maybe even brush-painted your models with basic Testors PLA enamels or Pactra paints, no airbrush, and likely didn't use aftermarket parts, etc., etc.  All of the adult modelers can pretty much relate to what you mentioned, but it is not a good comparison.

    If you want to be on a budget, go pick up some glue and paints from a dollar store, and find some inexpensive kits. That way you can model on a budget, like when you were a kid.  We can't go back to the good ol' times. That ship has sailed, never to return.  But is it fun to remember those good ol' times.

  7. If used after final paint polishing silicone will not cause problems.  It is absolutely safe for plastic and for hardened/dry paint. But generally I would avoid silicone anywhere near my hobby workshop  or paint booth, because even the smallest amount on the surface of items being painted will cause fish-eyes. 

    So from that angle I would stay away from any silicone-containign products on my hobby  workbench.

  8. 5 minutes ago, espo said:

    Everyone, now google a picture of a '85 thru '88 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS. The moldings surrounding the windows, the grill area, and portions of the rear bumper and area under the trunk lid all are this shade of black and was often called "Black Chrome".  this was a style of trim used on a few GM Products in the hopes that they would look sportier or something.

    Thank you for that David. That is exactly what I remember being called black chrome (or blackout chrome). Not the shiny dark metallic color which is apparently also called black chrome.

    Back around the same time I did the this with my '76 Camaro.  I painted the window trim, etc with satin black paint.  Black chrome baby!  :D

    Camaro01_roll17SM.jpg

     

    • Like 1
  9. As I remember, this is simply a satin black paint which is often used in moldings which would otherwise be chrome (or shiny silver).  Not flat, and not glossy.  BMF black chrome is also to be applied to trim pieces which should be black instead of metallic chrome, but it doesn't produce as good of a result at the paint. Foil remains shiny, and the black color doesn't look like the black trim should look like.

    Not sure why the name is suddenly being questioned. Both BMF and Testors have used that name/description for many years.

    • Like 2
  10. 3 hours ago, Lone Wolf said:

    You're not questioning a young and inexperienced idiot, who's not aware of the obvious need for white to make the statements I have.

    I'm not questioning your experience, but you just arbitrarily stated that it the clear coating does not yellow, without providing much detail.  Comparing your differing experience to mine (I'm also like you, not a young or inexperienced idiot), I simply asked for more details.  I will trust but verify, especially when it comes to things I read on the Interwebs (which is *FULL* of young, inexperienced, and/or clueless people). Just ask @Ace-Garageguy .

    To be honest, with 68 posts under your belt, I just don't know how much experience you have, or how reliable your info is. So don't get in a huff when someone asks you for more details about some product you tried and touting to others.  When you, like me, have been around this forum for quite a while, you'll learn to question new product or  technique someone touts here.

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