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peteski

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Posts posted by peteski

  1. How about a lunar eclipse? No special glasses needed.  We had one in Jan. 2019.  It was a full eclipse, but it looks boring. It looks more interesting just before or past the full eclipse.  The brownish/orange glow looks really odd.

    2019JanEclipse01.jpg.8ba862882e35ea889ac8a213e0bf8bb6.jpg

  2. On 2/26/2024 at 3:02 PM, PierreR89 said:

    Any suggestions for a superglue that does not go bad if it is unused for months/years?

    Doesn't exist.  Moisture in the air causes it to slowly start setting.  The thinner the CA is, the faster it will thicken.  Some people put it in refrigerator to extend the life (because air is dry in there), but I have a way to extend its life, but it takes work.  When I buy a new bottle I don't cut off the tip of the spout.  I have another older empty clean bottle where the tip is opened.  I pour just enough of the glue in that empty bottle to last me for a month or two.  Then I make sure the seal of the original bottle is clean and I reseal it quickly.  I also plug up the tip of the in-use bottle with a piece of wire tightly sitting in the hole.  When needed I dispense the CA from the 2nd bottle into a small depression in a dental mixing cup and reseal the 2nd bottle.  I then apply the glue using a forked needle applicator.  No, I don't use large quantities and what I do to extend its life I suspect is way too much bother for most modelers, but it works for me.

     

    CA_Glue_applicatiors02.jpg

     

    Using this system I often get few years of usable CA glue from the single bottle. As you can see, I also put a date code on my bottles so I know how old it is. Yes, I'm "different".   But it eventually every CA thickens up.  It is best to buy smaller bottles, even if they cost more per ounce than larger bottles.  If you buy larger bottle, you'll end up tossing half of the glue you paid for anyway.

    Also, no glue remains usable forever. I have some really tightly capped old Testors orange tube cement and the tubes are hard as a rock. I need to toss them.

     

    • Like 1
  3. 1 hour ago, stitchdup said:

    well you say that but there is an efficient network of electric vehicles that can pull a lot more than 9 cars and its been used by every auto manufacturer for over 100 years.

    Yes, but not in "Amurica".

    I'm sure that you know that the American railroad network is nothing like European or Asian network, but also there are very little electrified part of the railroad.  Diesel locomotives are what is used. They still belch stinky exhaust.  And those Diesel-powered trains do  transport lots of new cars to various destinations in cars likely much larger than the European counterparts.

     

    automax-train-004_01.jpg

  4. While the current prices for those trucks appear to be crazy, have you compared price of an average house today to what it was back in the '80s?  Or the price of groceries?  I think you know where I'm going here. Inflation.

    And today's trucks are appointed like luxury vehicles, not the basic workhorse trucks from the '80s (with manual windows, no GPS or fancy entertainment systems, bench seat, etc. etc.). You need to compare apples to apples.

    • Like 2
  5. 23 hours ago, Richard Bartrop said:

    Trust me, I am very familiar with international money orders, and on his order form he is very specific about money orders from a US Bank.

    All the same, I've sent an email, and we'll see what happens.

    When I (in USA) had to use money orders, I got them from the Post Office (not a bank). Not sure how different that is from any other money order issued in US Dollars.  I would imagine that if they are issued in US Dollars, they would be ok to use, but I would confirm that with Norm.

  6. On 2/26/2024 at 8:39 AM, bobss396 said:

    UV JB Weld... whatta game changer. I like the fact that you get a fighting chance to align parts. My experience with zip kickers... ask my vinyl table cloth how that worked out.

    As I mentioned there are several brands of CA accelerator.  When I first started, Zip-Kicker was the only one available.  That one is very aggressive, and IIRC, it is acetone-based so it will attack paint and plastic.  Then at work I found some other industrial use accelerators from Loctite.  Those smelled different from Zip-Kicker, did not attack plastic, and were not as aggressive in setting the glue.  But that was couple of decades ago.  Then I found Bob Smith Industries (BSI) brand line of CA and accelerators.  This accelerator has very low odor and will not instantly attack paint or plastic.  It is also not as aggressive as Zip Kicker (which I ditched). Now it's the only one I use.

    But remember that the thinner the CA glue is, the faster it will react to the accelerator.

  7. On 2/25/2024 at 11:18 PM, keviiin86 said:

    I'm kind of stuck with aerosol cans, if there's a specific brand that makes a more "scale" metallic paint let me know. 

    Sorry, I don't.  But even some 1:1 touch-up paints in aerosol cans have finer metallic flakes. But there is no good way to tell unless you spray it out of the can.

    • Like 1
  8. It is a nice color, but to me the metal flakes in that paint look out of scale, unless you are specifically going for that metal-flake effect.  Looks like glitter.  And I realize that it doesn't look so obvious when viewed directly, but it really pops out in photos.  I take the contest photos for my model club and I often see this exaggerated size metal flake. When I look at the model I photograph it looks ok, but then when I look at the photo it looks like something you would see on a bass boat or a dune buggy.

    I think the vendors who specifically mix automotive pains for the model market use smaller metallic particles to make the paint look more in-scale. Of course the vendors who just mix paints to be used on 1:1 cars don't know to do that.  But then the line of Testors One Coat Lacquers also had that problem.  Whoever came up with their paint formulas did not consider the flake size to be a factor.

  9. As I see it it is a fad done for looks.  It often goes alone with narrower low-profile tires stretched unrealistically onto wide rims.  It's a "bad boy" image.  It wrecks the tire and ride qualities. The handling is likely not very good either.  I don't shake my fists or yell at those - just roll my eyes.

    But whatever . . . if it makes those guys think they are cool, so be it.

    • Haha 1
  10. 1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:

    Have you had a chance to use it?

    I used it couple of times (on non-model items).  Smells like CA glue, and when hit with the UV light it sets very fast (like if it was hit with standard CA accelerator).

     

    When I was looking for it (on recommendation from a friend), none of the hardware stores seem to carry it. I ended up buying it on eBay.  But I have seen it recently in Lowe's in the adhesives section (in USA).

    • Like 1
  11. On 2/24/2024 at 8:42 AM, NOBLNG said:

    Are there any true UV “adhesives” that will adhere to the materials we normally use? Something that would rival epoxy or CA? i have only used Bondic and RapidFix…neither of which stick well to smooth hard surfaces.😕

    Greg, this is actually UV curable CA glue, so it should stick to those surfaces as well as any standard CA glue.

    jbweldcom_972361895.jpg

  12. Norm is an awesome guy!  One of the nicest people I have ever dealt with.

    Years back he did offer full detail engine kits for Ferrrari 250s. Awesome mutimedia kits (he included fuel lines an ignition wire.  I was bummed out when he stopped offering them, but I can see why as those looked to be very time-intensive to produce.

    He also sold excellent sports  cars steering wheels.  Real  wood rim and photoetched center. Perfect for Ferraris.  Too bad those are no longer offered, but again, I can see how they would have been difficult to make.  Then there are the photoetched "wizard Os" and Ferrari scripts. Also not listed in the current catalog.

    As for shipping, have you tried to send anything through the Post Office lately? If you haven't check the limited choices of services and prices.  $12 to me is totally reasonable!  Some of you guys still live in the '80s, or use amazon prime!  Not a fair comparison!

  13. I would highly discourage anybody from using bakign soda ad CA accelerator.  I have seen too many issues (like it oozing out of the joint in some humid climates).  Not worth it on your precious model.  If using CA glue, use accelerators specifically made for setting CA glue. There are multiple brands on the market.  If you need to use a filler with CA glue, use plastic shavings, talcum powder, microbaloons, or some similar inert powder.

    I prefer BSI brand of CA glue and accelerator.

    CA_Glue_applicatiors02.jpg

     

  14. 12 hours ago, 1972coronet said:

    I think about those lizard droppings periodically - today was one of those days. IIRC, they were (still are ?) manufactured by / sold under the Bars Leaks product line ; a G.M. part number was assigned to them as well. 

    Why is it that every image of the HT-4100 is of an exploded view ?

    Yes, those are GM and Bars Leaks turds are the same stuff.  GM had them repackaged in a GM-branded blister packs. I have both versions (since I own a 1985 Eldorado). Sctually the slang name was "dog turds". They are a bit large for lizard droppings, unless you mean Komodo Dragon.  :D

    • Like 2
  15. On 2/24/2024 at 6:40 AM, landman said:

    Thanks. I was going to use the Levis as my car had it. I may as well use the Hurst too as I had added a Hurst shifter.

    Cool!  I saw them in the photo of your car so I included them on the decal.

    • Thanks 1
  16. On 12/15/2023 at 9:50 AM, Ace-Garageguy said:

    I bought a real one way back in the early 1980s for $50 because the trans would fall out occasionally and the cooling system leaks had been "fixed" by dumping pepper in it...

    You think that's odd?  The early '80s Caddy Eldorados with the HT4100 engines had lots of problems with coolant leaks through head gasket and porous aluminum block.  Solution?  GM officially sold "coolant supplement tablets".  They were made from ground up ginger root and walnut shells. Might have been some Turmeric in them too. They were compressed into what the Caddy owners called "turds".   They were brown things that looked the part.  I'm not making it up.  As I recall, ginger root fibers expand when they dry, so when they lodged themselves into the voids, they dried up on the outside, expanding and sealing the leak. Kind of like a Dutch  boy sticking a finger in a dyke leak.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  17. Funny that the car had integrated bumper in the early '70s, then the 5MPH bumpers were mandated, so "steel rams" were tacked onto pretty much all cars, and yet contemporary calls all have integrated bumpers.  Like the adage goes, what's old is new again.

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