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peteski

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Posts posted by peteski

  1. We had few of them back when they were popular.  They communicate with each-other through IR communication (like a TV remote control), so they can have conversion and learn things.  There was even an app for PalmPilot (remember those personal assistants before smart phones took over?) which allowed you to control and communicate with the Furbies.  We still have couple stashed away (for when they become prized collectibles). :D

    Then the same company came out with a Shelby - similar toy but it looked like an oyster. It was slightly more advanced, and they also communicated using IR, but the silly thing was that the communication protocol was not compatible with Furby!  Go figure.

  2. 1 hour ago, Can-Con said:

    My guess would be the weather, Jon.

    Cooler air holds more humidity and that can be a factor. 

    I'd wait for drier weather. Humidity is much more of a factor with these things then just temperature. The drier the better.

     

    I live in the Northeast USA and we are currently entering the winter months. The cold air is much more drier and holds much less moisture than warm summer humid air.  Easy way to observe that (other than looking at the hygrometer) is getting static electric zaps everywhere I touch. That is because dry air does not allow the static electricity to dissipate. That is why I prefer casting and painting in the cooler months. No worries about moisture absorbed into urethane resin causing bubbles, or paint blushing due to ambient moisture condensation.

    But colder ambient temperature does usually increase the viscosity of liquids (like paint), so the temperature alone could be contributing to this paint issue.

    • Like 2
  3. 12 hours ago, bobss396 said:

    Eh.. not so fast on the 1303 Krylon clear over decals. Since my post I had a bad experience with it over kit stock car decals. It reacted with one on the roof, I had to strip the whole car and do it over.

    Decals are not all made the same.  Different brands might use different decal film chemistries, and different types of inks.  Different brands/types of clears will affect different types/brands of decals.  Only safe clear to use on all decals would be water-based acrylic clears. 

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  4. On 11/19/2023 at 5:36 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:

    Those are the best looking scale wires I've ever seen. PE is nice, but always the spokes look flat to me, and they never have the adjustment nuts...at least the ones I've seen. The tires look right too.

    One features impossible to do with photoetched spokes is accurately model the interlaced spokes. 3-D printing is capable of that, which dramatically improves the realism of those wheels.  The tires are also superbly rendered, and they have asymmetrical shape sidewalls - a feature I was not aware of until Jason designed those. Even the tread pattern is rendered correctly.  We live in some exciting times for modeling.

  5. So it is bare plastic?  Well then you will either have to some custom mixing of paints, or find one that is close in color (like some of the ones mentioned above).  Since the painted wheels are separated from the body, a slight color mismatch will not be very apparent.

    If you were to paint the cab, then you would have to come up with almost perfect match for things to look good (since the cab touches the fenders, and color mismatch would be very noticeable).

  6. Another alternative would be to simply tin the brass tube.  Solder tin/lead alloy has silver color and can be polished.

    I would take a length of brass tube plug up one end (so the solder does nto get into it., then generously coat it with flux (paste), and pull it almost vertically through a blob of melted solder on a large tip of a soldering iron. The flux should assure good coverage and that only thin layer of solder remains on the tube.

    As far as soldering hypodermic (stainless) tubing, I have done it in the past.  It is not as easy as soldering brass, but with some acid-based flux should be possible.  I seem to recall that I dialed the iron's temperature down form the usual 700 deg .F I normally use.

  7. On 11/26/2023 at 6:46 PM, CabDriver said:

    I’m excited for the Fiat - always wanted to build one of those. 

    Actually, I’d also like to modify one into a Barchetta 595, a 90s limited run production car designed and masterminded by McLaren F1 designer Peter Stevens:

    IMG_5127.jpeg.db931bb8327cc2f1c42cf924d3a10aef.jpeg

    Ewwww.  While not quite as homely as PT-Cruiser convertible, or the new Mini Cooper roadster, it is up there with them. Its lightly redeeming quality is that the nose is cute!  It just needs a big grinning mouth decal.

    5e46f22284194bcd823d8a2481a9948c.jpg

    CHRYSLER-PT-Cruiser-Convertible-2177_19.jpg

    • Like 1
  8. On 11/27/2023 at 7:20 AM, camaro69 said:

    I think Orafol cutted into the width you need could be a possible option. It´s mainly used by advertising companies and even on 1:1 cars for foiling so it should stick well.

    That sounds like a good idea.  Yes, this stuff is used for permanent graphic wraps or other stickers applied to 1:1 vehicles.  The plastic film and the adhesive are designed for long term use.

  9. In my experience all the masking tapes I have ever used, have adhesive which is not designed for long term use.  After some time (it  might take few years) the adhesive either dries up and loses adhesive quality, or gets gooey and sort of melts, spreading out from under the tape. I would not use any of those as a permanent part of my model.

    I have not done any testing (or long term real-use examples) of any of the Washi-type tapes (like Tamiya masking tape).

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