peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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I wonder if Atlantis added an actual molded windshield, or just give you a small piece of clear styrene sheet?
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3 hours ago, Duddly01 said:
No, I do use resistors. I often use. 6v battery case, just not this build. And I stand corrected, my red ones always have resistors even when I don’t for the headlights.
Now that makes sense (to someone who has been dealing with various LED-based designs, not just for models for over 40 years).
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1 hour ago, Duddly01 said:
This is only necessary if greater than 3v. I haven’t tried to use dollar tree LEDs, but I do get many from Amazon but they are generally not as bright from what I have found. The big plus though is you can get packets of a whole bunch, with resistors prewired for quite cheap. The switches and battery cases the same.
Well, some LEDs (of certain colors have lower forward voltage than others. Without getting too technical, for example a red or yellow LED has a lower forward voltage and will "steal" all the current for for example a white or blue LEDs which have higher forward voltage.
in your circuit a resistor shape appears to be visible under the heat shrink right next to the LED. Do you cut those resistors off?
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4 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
I'll say it......They're cheap!!!!
Steve
And lazy, not wanting to clean the airbrush after each color, and after the painting session. I see that excuse mentioned often. But I think it also boils down to the fact that military modelers are more fastidious than average automotive modelers. The seem to strive for better quality and fidelity in the models they build.
And like Steve said, many go for a quick build rather than a super-detailed model which takes months to build.
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18 hours ago, iBorg said:
An alternative source for LEDS is to look at DollarTree. They tend to have some dirt cheap LEDs with a battery holder at several holidays including Halloween. They may be in a plastic enclosure but I've broken them with a pair of pliers.
With those, don't forget to use resistors in series with the LEDs. Even Design LEDs have the resistor installed next to each LED (in heat shrink tubing).
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40 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
Yeah, they moved from Ohio to North Carolina quite some time ago.
whatever site the OP was accessing must have been defunct for quite a while.Steve
As I understand the old address came directly from a Google search. Google has stale info.
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11 hours ago, BK9300 said:
Thanks, Peter - tried that, but I think I need to resize my pictures to get them to line up side by side. I'll do some experimenting!
That's true, the pictures have to fit the width of the forum window. But you can also resize them within the message. After you add the photo to the message just double click on the photo in the message and that will bring up "Image" popup. There, you can specify the width you want (in pixels) making sure that "keep original aspect ratio" box is checked, then click on "Update" on the bottom of the popup. You can edit the same photo multiple times this way to get the photos in the size you want. And if you uncheck the "aspect ratio" box and start manually messing around with both photo dimensions, you can end up with a distorted image.
This process doesn't resize the actual uploaded picture, it just modifies how the picture is displayed in the message. Here's an example. The top pictures (all from the same original link) have been resized to 100, 150, and 200 pixels across, and the bottom picture is the original size as it was uploaded to the forum. With the 3 photos in-line I inserted couple of spaces between them.
Here is the distorted photo
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12 hours ago, Brutalform said:
You only get some automated system when you do. I can’t think of any company that will pick up the phone, or reply to an email. No one cares.
It is all about maximizing profits, and live human staffed customer service costs more money than some computer sitting in a closet (or in the cloud) spewing out automated menu selection. "Press 9 to go to hell!"
I also find it amusing (and annoying at the same time) when the computer voice tells you "please listen to the menu as the options have changed". That's Bull! I have called that same company for few years and the menus and the silly message are the same. They are basically using psychology to make the listener stay and listen to all the options to minimize misrouting.
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Photos are just like very large single letters in the text area, so they can be arranged like letters. When you add multiple photos in the text area, if they are stacked vertically that means there is a Return or Enter character on the right side of each photo. If you move the flashing text cursor around you should be able to spot right at the lower right edge of the photo. If you then hit the Delete button, the photo below will move up right against the other photo.
That is when using a PC. If you post from a phone, use whatever method you have to move the cursor to the correct location and then delete the Return character.
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Yes, https://mcwfinishes.com/ works, and on the bottom of the main page it shows:
MCW Finishes
2414 South Horner Boulevard
Sanford, North Carolina 27330, United States
(919)292-1695So Google has stale info.
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The great almighty Google is not always correct.
I still fail to see what this was all about. So google states (incorrectly) that MCW is permanently closed. So one goes on this forum to ask real humans. They promptly point to an active MCW website and also confirm that they have recently seen or even purchased MCW products. Seems to me that there was some lack of clarity in the early posts causing all this drama. Oh well, all is good again.
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7 hours ago, niteowl7710 said:
I love Hobby Search to look at instructions, but they've never had the best price on kits, or their shipping options. HLJ is cheaper on both, plus you can hoard kits for 60 days (6 months really, they haven't fully rolled back the Covid relaxation of their prior time limit.) which can spread out the cost of 5 kits over 2 months rather than having to make a one time bulk order. Of course that's just an evil plot to not realize how much you're spending...?
I know. I've been a customer of HLJ for probably couple of decades, but few years back after one of their major website redesigns, I didn't like the functionality, so I started buying from Hobby Search. I guess I have to revisit HLJ, but we still have to support Hobby Search, so they keep on posting scans of the kit's instructions.
That is super handy!
Anybody remember Rainbow Ten? I used to order kits from them back when you had to email them your order. I also had the pleasure of visiting the actual hobby store in-person. What an amazing place it was!
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To me the point is that there is no single perfect painting technique. You have to experiment and settle on what works for you. The important thing is that you are happy with the model you built.
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Since we have now moved to all sorts of subjects and techniques, I don't prime unless I have to, and never sand any paint jobs unless I have to. I shoot all sorts of paints (decanted or not) through Badger 200 airbrush I have owned for over 30 years.
Here is a 1:43 scale Cobra. The body was yellow plastic, so I shot it with a decanted Tamiya fine white primer. Then the color was shot using nail polish thinned with lacquer thinner. Actually that was the 2nd reason for that primer coat - nail polish and lacquer thinner are "hot" and can attach (craze) bare plastic. The skunk stripes were then masked with Tamiya tape, and shot with AccuPaint white. It goes on very thin. AccuPaint is long discontinued, but TruColor paint is basically the same stuff. Then for clear coat I used decanted Testors Wet Look Clear. No sanding or polishing. It looks pretty glossy to me - I'm quite happy with the finish.
I always wonder why so many modelers do all that in-between-coats sanding, and final sanding and polishing. What's my secret? I don't know. I don't do mist coats - I airbrush my paint fairly heavily, and I usually don't do more than couple of coats (too much paint and clear makes a model look like it was dipped in molasses). Back when I started airbrushing, there were no online forums or YouTube. I just came up with my technique on my own. Works for me.
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That is some amazing modeling and electronics work!
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Not sure how many kits you would have to buy to make shipping costs economical. Also airmail shipping does get expensive when the box size and weight start getting big.
For example, I use Hobby Search in Japan and have been using ECMS shipping (the cheapest trackable option).
Bought 2 kits in standard Japanese kit boxes. Kits were 8640 Yen, and shipping was 5184 Yen
In another order I bought 5 kits. They arrived in sizable box (again standard size Japanese kit boxes). Kits were 15360 Yen, and shipping was 8808 Yen. Yes some savings, but not all that much. The shipping cost is pretty steep.
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20 hours ago, stavanzer said:
In Short, they need to police their sellers better, and stop the rip offs. It won't happen, but that is what they need to do.
You understand! And as you stated it will not happen, and those online companies will stay afloat supported by all the people who buy online (one of the main reasons is that brick&mortar shops are quickly disappearing, and will continue to dwindle) regardless of the shopping experience. Everything is online, online, online. Basically the online vendors have us by the short and curlys, so they don't care how bad your experience is. They know you will come back for more.
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20 hours ago, stavanzer said:
In Short, they need to police their sellers better, and stop the rip offs. It won't happen, but that is what they need to do.
You understand! And as you stated it will not happen, and those online companies will stay afloat supported by all the people who buy online (one of the main reasons is that brick&mortar shops are quickly disappearing, and will continue to dwindle) regardless of the shopping experience. Everything is online, online, online. Basically the online vendors have us by the short and curlys, so they don't care how bad your experience is. They know you will come back for more.
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20 hours ago, stavanzer said:
In Short, they need to police their sellers better, and stop the rip offs. It won't happen, but that is what they need to do.
You understand! And as you stated it will not happen, and those online companies will stay afloat supported by all the people who buy online (one of the main reasons is that brick&mortar shops are quickly disappearing, and will continue to dwindle) regardless of the shopping experience. Everything is online, online, online. Basically the online vendors have us by the short and curlys, so they don't care how bad your experience is. They know you will come back for more.
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Those sure look like Fernando's wheels, and the ones I have are all-resin. They are hand laced with wire spokes, but the rims, hubs, and tires are all resin cast.
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I like the way the magazine's art editor was able to restore colors on that photo.
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And while it feels good to grouse about all this high-technology and overcomplication, the truth is that it's not only not ever going away - it will keep getting more and more complex.
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When I was in high school, I never heard of that thing you call "Internet", and I managed to still learn things, and graduate.
As far as the outage goes, maybe the Internet connection was fine the day before, and the outage just happened in the morning of the first day of school?
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No Kidding! Sure, when buying directly from Japan the kit prices are really good, but the shipping costs are a killer. Total price ends up being within few bucks of buying these models Stateside. The only advantage is that you will likely get a newly released model sooner when buying it from Japan.
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Food Dehydrators & Paint Dryers
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
To me 140 deg. F seems a bit too hot for comfort. I don't run mine for more than around 110-115 deg. Also, some formulations of polystyrene or ABS plastic (and urethane resins) can be more sensitive to temperature than others.