Shambles
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Posts posted by Shambles
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2 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:
Bob Paeth used to form foil over the straight body parts, then dent the new aluminum parts. I saw him demonstrate it at a contest, once. It looks great! I think tooling aluminum (Maid-O-Metal is what I have. Available at HL and Michael's) would be best suited to this application.
Thanks, Daniel. I was just in a Michael's the other day and didn't think to look for foils. The checkout line there is always so long, it's my last resort for hobby supplies. I've found some foils online but never heard of Maid-O-Metal. I forget which thickness worked best so I had an assortment but sold all my supplies with my collection when I moved a couple of years ago. Do you have links to any online suppliers you recommend?
On this wrecked Challenger, I cut out the trunk lid, then formed the foil over the strait lid. Then, I crumpled the foil lid, painted it, hinged it and got a one of my most realistic effects so far. On that Ford Vickie, I had already heated and crumpled the hood but it didn't look right so I formed the foil over it.
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On 10/10/2019 at 12:35 PM, drodg said:
I build for most of the reasons you guys have mentioned like I can't have all the cars in 1:1 because of money and I love seeing the kit coming together. It certainly gets my mind off of business pressures. I think it is interesting that I started building kits 50+ years ago as a kid and loved building them. I think I really started when I was like 10-12 years old. Probably the same with most of you. I have a couple grandsons who are really into cars and motorcycles but show absolutely no interest in building models. I kind of blame screen games on this but they are pretty good about not spending as much time as some teens on phones etc. I have tried to get them interested but they are not. Kinda sad.
Kids today have a lot more to entertain themselves with than we did back in the 50s and 60s. I'm just glad to see such active model car websites and forums for us old model builders.
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On 10/7/2019 at 12:14 PM, Oldmopars said:
I have thought about making wrecked models. Instead of melting the plastic, I am thinking of forming the fenders, hoods, doors etc out of thin aluminum like from dollar store roasting pans. I like the idea. Yours look really good.
Yes, I experimented with some various thicknesses of foil. It's more forgiving than plastic and looks more like real, crumpled sheet metal. New cars have so much plastic that, in a wreck there's just a bunch of busted plastic! On this one, I was forming the foil to the heated and bent hood. As you can see, the hood looks more realistic than the fender.
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Hi Mark. Yeah that's what they are. I've done what you suggested with some decals in the distant past, but my eyesight and dexterity ain't what it used to be in the older days. I ordered two sets of these decals, so I've got some room for error. In response to FairFax's questions, I'm planning on doing some light weathering then dull coating the finished car. From the numerous photos I've seen of stock cars from this era, very few were showroom shiny, especially after a few races.
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Interesting project. I enjoyed seeing the cutter at work. My agency had a small sign shop and did a lot of cut vinyl graphics. It was a large cutter and could only cut letters down to about 1/4 inch but I still made a few model decals for my projects and for my late father's RC airplanes. Keep us posted.
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On 10/9/2019 at 6:22 PM, Fairfax said:
Thank you so much to all the boys for the nice words. ?
For John Shamblin: Hello, colleague! I had the same problem as you. I was starting to print on the printer's laser, but it was only possible to put the print on the white of the base. Then I found this: www.vinar.cz Try writing there, while it is in the Czech Republic, it also sends abroad and can be switched to English. You design decals yourself for paper size in A4 format. It just needs to be done in a vector program. And there's also a problem with lining numbers and letters. The main colour often goes over the edge. Everything has a white underprint. Now, though, I'm trying to explore printing out decals on an ink printer only in white and then the same decals on a laser printer in color. Then I compose a print of two layers of white and coloured on it. But it's true that white itself doesn't cover very well, and two layers are already thicker. They better cover the first ones. Good luck.
Thanks for the info, Micheal. I'm a retired graphic designer/art director and owned a screenprint and vinyl graphics shop for many years, so I'm very familiar with vector art. I've seen some laser printers that will print white, but they are expensive and the white ink is too. I'm looking at the vinar.cz site on my other screen but don't see the English connection. I'll keep looking. Thanks again.
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2 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
Composite parts tend to shatter and crack. Freeze your model, then smack it. Ought to get pretty close to reality with a little practice.
I don't know... it just won't be the same as crumpled sheet metal (sigh).
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I wish NASCAR would go back to racing real stock cars, air bags and all. Run what you brung, like the good old days! I think it might just revive the shrinking fan base. Louise Smith's first race was in the family car which she wrecked. Apparently her family encouraged her to continue as witnessed by the "Smith Auto Parts" sponsor.
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Beautiful build! Ah, those were the days when "stock" cars still looked stock. Buddy Baker was an entertaining NASCAR commentator for a while too.
Monogram kits were always my favorite and I built dozens of them back in the 80s and 90s.
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Composite bodies? How am I gonna make a realistic-looking wrecked model now? Dang! Just when I thought I'd almost mastered bent sheet metal on plastic models! Oh well, I've got a whole box full of old NASCAR models in various states of disrepair. That'll keep me busy for a while.
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Yeah, in the photo her Ford looks like a patchwork of paint jobs covering past sponsors. When I'm done, I'll do a B&W photo.
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Started working with the SlotCarFever decals. These obviously weren't designed for any specific Louise Smith car, and definitely not for this Ford. Since the decal doesn't cover the entire side of the car like the darker color in the photos, I tried to find a rattle can color as close as possible to the decal color. Now, I'm cutting the decals apart and applying them approximately where the photo shows them. They're still a little too large but I'll try to trim them to fit as best I can.
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Outstanding! I'm working on a couple of home made old Nascar projects myself. I'm curious about the decals. I've made printed decals on my ink jet but they only work on light colored cars. What method did you use to make the light colored decals opaque enough to work on the dark colored models?
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Amazing for scratch built! Michael Paul Smith did some truly incredible work using outdoor settings for his dioramas. I've never taken the time to try that, but it's inspirational to look at what he did: http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/SmithMP.htm
I've done a few 1:25 dioramas over the years and started using Photoshop to place background images. The trick is to find a digital image large enough for the background so you don't have to enlarge it and it becomes pixelated,. Then matching the lighting angle and intensity in your photo to that of the digital background image. Even with decades of computer graphic design experience, this is still a challenge that I'm enjoying in retirement.
http://www.shamblesmodels.com/dioramas.html
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4 hours ago, Jantrix said:
Modeling is both engineering and art. Which strokes both sides of my brain just right.
My thoughts exactly.
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12 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
That I don't know.
You would probably need to contact Testors and Tamiya and inquire about print copies.
Steve
I did a bunch of googling, but ain't found anything. These model car companies seem to keep their cards close to their chests. Surprised at that, I mean if they want to keep the hobby going and attract old and young enthusiasts.
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Some fit issues but overall an OK kit.
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I didn't get this in today, but recently. I've got a few more on the way.
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Interesting topic. My late, younger brother and I got into building models in the late 50s/early 60s. Something to do on those hot summer weekend afternoons in the south. We both were fascinated with the real car styling of that era, and through the 70s. We both continued building and collecting, on-and-off over the decades. We'd often compare our builds, but never got into shows or competition. I've gotten into and out of building over the years, depending on whether I had the time but I've always found it relaxing and challenging. I'll often have a ball game or race on tv while I'm building.
My brother and I did compete with each other in one area; building realistic-looking, wrecked model cars. It started early when our skills were developing. When one of us would screw up a build (glue on windshield, paint runs, etc.), we use a candle or bic lighter to heat the plastic and crash it into something. It's not easy to make plastic bend at sharp angles like sheet metal, or to make realistic-looking flat tires, but we got better. Although we both built hundreds of kits over the years, I only started photographing a few I had left or built recently. You can see a few on my website here: http://www.shamblesmodels.com/wrecked.html
My other hobbies have included playing drums with various bands, both on stage and in recording studios, 1:1 Corvettes, restoring cars, boats, and remodeling a few houses. I ain't getting any younger so my current hobbies are limited to modeling, watching good movies, and listening to the free, live music that goes on here 365 nights a year.
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17 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
Testors enamels.
Testors "One Coat" lacquers
Testors "Model Master" car lacquers
Tamiya
Steve
Thanks, Steve. I'll save those in a folder. Do you know if they're available in printed form? Computer displays all vary in color representation so most paint companies use printed "chips" or charts that conform to industry color matching systems.
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Your's looks better than the box art!
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22 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
MCW has a lot of really nice colors in spray cans for $15.00 each.
This '62 Belair was painted years ago with an MCW rattle can.
Steve
Impressive build! Do you remember what kit that was?
DM Wrecker project
in Diecast Corner
Posted
This has been a fun project. At first, I was just going to remove the graphics and paint the wheels black. Then I found a styrene dump truck bed and said, why not? I had a couple of these wreckers in less than great condition. I'm going to do a little more experimenting with the weathering, then maybe a little diorama.