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Marc @ MPC Motorsports

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Posts posted by Marc @ MPC Motorsports

  1. Hi Charlie & Marc:

    I'm printing this thread to add to a 3 ring binder of material for whom folks (Marcos Cruz, Donn Yost, etc) have conversed with me to help forge forward in the right direction. I've got about 8 kits stored up to hone my efforts on right now. My desires were so creatively expressed when I started looking at other folk's detailing. My 1st actual model was a JJ Vega flopper that I quickly added a homemade fuel system and a mag/ignition wire setup to win a blue ribbon at our local fair (yea, we're really rural). The paint was actually not bad as it was summer and I started with Tamiya fine white and one of those Testors "hot" metalflake One Shot colors. I was able to shoot everything outside as it was summer.

    As the weather has gotten sporadically rainy and cooler over the past 2 months, I've struggled with this Nova. Due to disabilities, I only get about a quarter of my salary from 5 years ago when I was a systems analyst. As you can imagine, that leaves little for a sprayer setup, much less the necessary paint booth for safetie's sake. So sadly, for now I must use rattle cans and yes I have been using those large flaked, custom colors.

    I'm more than happy to switch to any stable primer resembling Tamiya's properties since it's a bit expensive. As for the base paint, again whatever either of you could recommend which would be an easy rattle can product. It doesn't even have to be metallic as long as I can either clear or polish it to a nice shine. Marc - you say you shot your Cjhevelle with a Testor's metallic laquer? Did you also spray an extra coat of dull to cut some of the flakes down? Mine are HUGE compared to yours! I'[m going to try to insert 3 pics of my body in this post.

    P.S. - I was able to take the plunge this afternoon and wet sand the dust specs and the fisheye areas after some advice from a fellow hobbyist. After washing and drying, I shot a light coat, just enough to cover the few areas of primer that were revealed and prepare for the 2nd and final wetcoat. The mistcoat went on fine, I waited 20 mins. and then shot the final wetcoat. I actually got brave and shot it a little closer and heavier than the 1st wetcoat as I saw it appeared to be covering the fisheye areas which I didn't think it would. It's now drying for the next 5-6 days and after that, I intend to use a polishing system on it. I don't believe at this point I can safely shoot any clear because of how long it's been between coats.

    TMI!!! Thanks to everyone who helped me get this far. I'd really like a basic, fairly predictable system for a few kits so I can concentrate on my true passion in this hobby which is detailing!

    Mitch, I have found that clear coat and polishing helps to diminish the heaviness of the flake in the Testors paints. If you aren't doing so already, I recommend pre-heating the cans in hot tap water before you spray. I run hot tap water, hold the can under the water for a few seconds. Shake the can, feel the can cool from the paint inside. Repeat until you don't feel the can cool as you shake it. This helps the paint flow better from the can. Good luck with your paint work!

  2. Hi, Mitch. Welcome back.

    I've never had any problems with the Testors lacquers. They do, however require you to actively practice a phrase I learned in Latin I when I was a freshman in high school- two words that have stayed with me all these years since- cum diligentia. The direct translation is "with great care."

    The One Coat lacquers (I'm assuming you're using the more custom colors as opposed to the factory-match product?) require very thin coats on a well-primed surface.

    Primer- I swear by Plati-Kote's primers and it's almost all I use. I find the solvents less problematic than Dupli-Color's solvents, especially with the newer, softer plastics we're seeing more of. I use the gray, white and oxide red, depending on the final color.

    I always sand the parts with 600-grit wet-dry sanding film under either running water or in a tub of water (I like the 5-qt. Ziploc rectangular containers for all sorts of things), and then wash the part(s) in soapy water, rinse and allow to air-dry.

    The One-Coat name is a little misleading. The product is a decent paint, but I've found two light coats gets better results with it. Allow the paint to dry completely (2-3 days) before top-coating. A light wet-sanding, followed by another soap-and-water bath/rinse and air-dry will help you out a lot. Clear can follow after that.

    For other paints, I've used Plasti-Kote, Testors enamels and lacquers and both old and new Dupli-Color paints for sprays. For airbrush, I've used Testors enamels cut with lacquer thinner, MCW and have a bottle of Scale Finishes enamel I'll be trying soon. I also have a project that will have me cutting a vile of Dupli-Color touch up paint with lacquer thinner, and will see how that works.

    I'm not too crazy about the new formula Dupli-Color paints. They don't seem to work as well as they should, and on one car, I've had a devil of a time getting a good paint job, and this is with repeated cleaning, sanding, etc. I'm going to try decanting the paint and airbrushing it to see if that works as an experiment to see if it's more the paint or more the nozzle (their nozzles are AWFUL).

    I've also used Krylon products for certain things. You must prime very thoroughly, but the results are good if you're careful and use light coats, as the solvents are strong, which is why it dries so fast.

    As to airbrushing I highly recommend giving it a shot. I have a Paasche H, which is a nice, all-metal, American-made airbrush that works well. Make sure to get at least two bottles (1 and 3 oz) for big jobs. Harbor Freight usually has a decent deal on small "pancake" compressors with regulators that will provide plenty of air.

    Seriously, if you can use a rattle-can, you can airbrush. Use some of the extra bodies and other stuff you have to practice on.

    Good luck!

    Charlie Larkin

    Good post, Charlie.

    I have found it nearly impossible to spray light, mist coats straight from a can of Testors lacquers. The problem is their paint is too thick, which requires lots of pressure to be expelled from the can. Goes on thick, with lots of orange peel and the occasional trapped air bubbles from propellant. Decanted, thinned and airbrushed, its a whole new ball game. I thin this paint with Gunze Mr. Color thinner, which is more "styrene friendly" than hardware store or automotive lacquer thinners. I'm thinning it approximately 2:1 thinner to paint and applying it at 20psi with a Paasche H with the largest (#5?) nozzle. My 1971 Chevelle pictured below was painted with Testors Citrus Yellow Metallic lacquer and Wet Look Clear from the One Coat line. Very little polishing was required to achieve this look.


  3. Awesome work! Really curious to know how you modified the front and rear seats from the Nova to fit the Velle interior tub. I need to do a 72 with a bench seat.

    I used some Tamiya 6mm tape and removed a section with a razor saw. Reattached the parts with Ambroid Pro Weld and used Gunze Mr. Dissolved Putty to fill in some minor gaps. Did this on both the front and rear seats. Had to use a sanding stick to sand down the sides of the rear seat cushion to fit between the arm rests. I may have taken a bit off the bottom of the rear seat but I don't remember now. I did remove another 2-3mm off the bottom of the front seat. If you make clean cuts, the parts mate back almost perfect.

  4. Since the Heavy Chevy was a budget muscle and probably one of the first of the "decal" muscle cars of the 1970's, I felt it needed a bench seat. I purchased the Revell 1969 Nova COPO and modified the seats to fit the AMT Chevelle's interior tub. While I was at it, I robbed a Revell 1969 Camaro door panels of its window cranks and arm rests and enhanced the door panel trim with a strip of Evergreen styrene.

    DSCN1927-vi.jpgThe Tamiya XF-26 Deep Green is the color for the interior and the Ken's Fuzzy Fur got mixed with some black and dark grey to match.


  5. I haven't posted anything here in ages, because I haven't been building for ages. I recently found some time to resume this wonderful hobby and rather than finish one of my WIP's, I started another project in true Modeler's ADD fashion. This build began with a Bandit Resin 1971 Chevelle. I provided Bandit with the master for this resin kit, including a flat hood and a front bumper and grille that does not have an SS emblem. The body is a repop of the original AMT 1971 Chevelle annual and can use an AMT 1970 or 1972 Chevelle to build. Bandit's offering also includes a rear bumper that is missing the SS emblem. That bumper was found in the AMT 1971 Chevelle annual.DSCN0734-vi.jpgI removed the SS trim from the body, including the wheel opening moldings, then slammed the stance over a set of big and little Rally wheels I got from Steven "Z-Man" Zimmerman. The hood is from an MPC SSlasher Chevelle.

    DSCN1905-vi.jpgHere it is in primer with the wheels painted.

    DSCN1906-vi.jpgHere it is shortly after the first stage of painting was completed. Decanted Testors Citrus Yellow Metallic.

    DSCN1918-vi.jpgI applied the Heavy Chevy graphics courtesy of Fred Cady then cleared with decanted Testors Wet Look Clear.

  6. Wow! As a fan of vintage model kits, I'm super excited about this one. I've collected a number of AMT '32 Ford kits and aftermarket parts for the same and have been looking for an excuse to build one. I have too many projects on my bench right now but I'll have to make room for another. I will post some pics as soon as I decide which version to build.

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