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Marc @ MPC Motorsports

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Posts posted by Marc @ MPC Motorsports

  1. Fresh out of the paint booth...


    Testors Model Master lacquer Wimbledon White with a twist...two coats of Tamiya TS-65 Pearl Clear then three coats of Tamiya TS-13 Clear. You can't see the pearl in the pic but it is there. Just to be a little different. Wimbledon White is the perfect period color for a 1964-era Ford and the pearl brings it to the modern era. I sprayed the white over the weekend, then wetsanded it smooth and applied the clear tonight.


  2. No matter what method one uses for stripping chrome, the clear lacquer coating on the part still remains. After stripping chrome, I soak the part in Scalecoat Paint Remover (found at most model railroading oriented hobby shops.) It takes that off cleanly and quickly. Testors' ELO also works but not quite as efficiently. Once you take the lacquer layer off, its ready for paint.

    Just my 2 cents.

    Sometimes the "purple stuff" will remove the clear undercoat, sometimes it doesn't. I use Chameleon paint stripper to get the tuff stuff.

  3. I'll be using the original AMT engine block with upgrade parts (heads, valve covers, EFI, etc) from the Revell 1932 Ford five window coupe kit. I've filled the axle hole in the block and added the missing freeze plug detail.



    The wheels were purchased on Ebay (diecast I think) with the fronts narrowed and fitted with Revell tuner tires.




    I'm looking forward to comparing and contrasting the original with the various Trumpeter builds that will be going on here.


  4. It's all your fault...talking about the Trumpeter Falcon kit. I had to get my AMT 1964 Falcon builder out of storage and go to work. Three years ago, I got this on Ebay. Missing a front bumper but otherwise complete.


    I deconstructed and stripped the paint soon after and was left with this.


    Since last Thursday, April 21, I've shaved the emblems and scribed panel lines. The hood is from that resin caster formerly known as A/FX.


    I filled and shaved the firewall and front screw posts on the radiator support.


    I removed the molded-in single exhaust from the chassis as well as the verbal descriptions of the Falcon's features for 1964.


    An AMT 1969 Torino Cobra kit will give up its exhaust system.


    More to come...

  5. If you were going to buy an air compressor from Harbor Freight which would you buy?

    3 gal oilless

    No tank quiet

    Complete kit

    The last one I know has an airbrush but I won't count on using it.

    Would like to pair with a good single action airbrush possible a Paasche H series.

    Thanks for your opinions.


    I have the second one on your list (no tank quiet). I've had it for four years with no problems. Most all compressors have the same warranties these days and Bearair, TCP Global and others sell virtually the same compressors. When I bought mine at Harbor Freight, I paid and additional $20 for a two year free replacement warranty that I did not have to use. Buy it with confidence.

  6. Thanks so much for adding to this thread.

    I really appreciate it.

    Here's some progress on the build.


    Looks like you borrowed a page from the MPC Motorsports playbook. I love it! B)

    If I didn't have the annual, I'd go for it and still might pick one up someday at the right price.

  7. I prefer that you post things in the appropriate place. We have a "Contests and Shows" section for a reason!

    "Forum for posting on line model car and truck contests, announcing national and regional shows, and for show coverage."

    Harry, instead of making a public display of our friend, Steve, why didn't you just move the thread to the correct section and be done with it? None of us are perfect...

  8. Ahhh, the joys of a build-thread. Now you all have a front-row seat to my screw up! :angry:

    I need some help here fellas. I was unaware that the Metalizer base would only be used for candy paints and metallics...that sorta thing. Not 1970 Ford Grabber Yellow. So now, I need to figure out how to go about this. Should I just scuff up the Metalizer, apply white primer over it and then go to yellow? What grit should I use? Should I use steps and work up in grits? Please Please Please don't tell me that the metalizer has to come off cuz I already sprayed some pieces for my '40 Ford Pickup also. Stuff like the steel wheels and the engine block (stuff that I wouldn't be able to sand). And from what I understand, if I try to strip this back off with brake fluid or a trip to the purple pond, the metalizer will actually laugh at you!! It wont come off.

    You should be able to spray primer right over it, but I would do a spoon test just to be sure.

  9. With the responses I got here and the more I looked at it, I ended up stripping the hood back down last night. I just couldn't get into it. So I'm back to going with the original plan, the Grabber Yellow. Steve, what are you using for white primer? I use Duplicolor for the grey stuff.

    Not Steve, but Duplicolor makes a white primer as well.

  10. DSCN0179-vi.jpg

    This picture should help you out. This is a Revell Z06 engine mated to the tranny from an AMT 1965 El Camino.

    Start by gluing the engine halves of both motors together. Then, using a razor saw, carefully separate the engine blocks from the bellhousing on both. Finally, glue the ZR1 block to the bellhousing from the Chevelle. You will have to modify the oil pan on the ZR1 to fit the Chevelle chassis. Don't worry about accuracy, it is a model so feel free to take liberties here. Let me know if you have any other questions.

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