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About robdebie

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    Rob de Bie

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  1. The brand is 'Fein Design Modell', a German brand. The T70 looked very nice indeed! Rob
  2. If you're lucky, the full-size stickers were made by a company specializing in commercial vehicle stickering. If so, vector artwork of those stickers must exist. If you could lay your hands on that vector artwork, you can scale it down 43 times, and you have your decal artwork. Here's a list of custom decal printers, that can do the printing for you: https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/decals.htm#other If the artwork needs work before it can be printed, be aware that those manhours cost money. Here's a custom decal sheet that I had printed recently, to give you an idea of wha
  3. I suggest reading some older threads on that subject: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/search/?q=%22custom%20decals%22&type=forums_topic&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy&search_and_or=or&search_in=titles After the homework, ask yourself whether you want to learn how to do it yourself, or do you want to outsource the job? Looking at the car, you could maybe do the drawing work yourself, but not the printing, since you need white ink to go under all the colors. The only consumer printer that has white is (was) an Alps, but it cannot do the beige / orangy / faded
  4. I have a 'working thesis' that solvent glue results in a brittle joint. Our model plastic is 'high-impact polystyrene' (HIPS) that behaves totally different from pure polystyrene, called 'general purpose polystyrene' (GPPS). GPPS is clear, and if you ever dropped a CD case, you know how brittle it is. HIPS has tiny particles mixed in, consider them rubber particles. These particles stops cracks from growing, and create a totally different material behaviour. You can drop a car body, and nothing will happen, most of the time. I have the impression that in a HIPS to HIPS joint, made with so
  5. I had a similar problem, and I discovered a method to go from photo 1 to photos 2 and 3: It started out as an attempt at fast & thorough paint stripping, but as a side effect the whole kit disassembled itself! The process is described on my website: https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/ultrasonic.htm I haven't heard of other trying it, so I cannot report more user experiences. No guarantee it will work on your kit! Rob
  6. Agreed, cover your master with one final layer to achieve a uniform texture, otherwise there's the risk of imperfections showing up after mold-making. Here's a bomb that I did, as an example. I used Mr Surfacer from a spray can, but basically any paint / primer will do. Peteski is right that platinum-cure silicone rubber is sensitive to some materials and then will not cure. But I never had that happen with cured (!!) paint. Rob
  7. Those Monogram 5 and 9 spoke wheels are actually very nice underneath the chrome, and even better when you sand down the backs so the spokes are opened up. I was quite surprised. One strange thing was that the 9-spoke wheels were a tad smaller: 17.5 instead of 17.7 mm. This meant that my 5-spoke tires were a loose fit, I could fit two layers of paper between the wheel and tire. Rob
  8. I have an aircraft model with similar problems. I concluded that only one filler worked: thin superglue. All others did a bad job of actually filling the hole. I explored a few pinholes with a needle, and found a cavity (air bubble) beneath each one of them. The photo shows how all the pin holes that I found and opened up with a needle. If you look closely in the canopy coaming area, you can see some of the pinholes as they appeared originally under Mr Surfacer. The other side of the model was even more badly affected. Here you see all the holes filled with superglue and sanded
  9. Ha, I did nearly exactly the same! But I have plans to make a 3D CAD design of the headlights, and have them printed. And like you I closed the louvers. For the rest the model is far from being finished. I've rebuilt the floor plate, the Heller underside is fantasy. And I've widened the air tunnels leading to the radiators - you might see it in the above photo if you compare it to your model. By the way: my kit fits fine with a few tweaks here and there. Like the sawcut down the middle of the lower nose part; the sawcut alone was enough to solve the fit problem of that part. It's no
  10. I don't want to spoil your party, but I don't think these castings look that good. I see a surface structure that maybe can be described as 'pebbly'. And I recognise it from my own castings: after using the mold for 20 castings, I get the same. The castings still releases fine, no problem, but all 20+ castings have a surface structure that looks a lot like what I see on the hoods, especially the left one. Since I noticed the problem, I made 'counters' on my molds, to retire them after 20 castings. Works fine. You can sand it off, yes, but that's not a nice job. I would ask the manufacture
  11. Nice, yours is the first I've seen with headlights! I've added this thread as a link to my Airfix/Heller Peugeot 905 review page: https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/905review.htm Rob
  12. Here's my Monogram ‘85 Elliott Coors T-Bird chassis, that I did many years ago (20+ maybe, oops..). I painted mine after total assembly, so there would not be gaps between the parts. But I remember waisting a lot paint on it while airbrushing the tubes of the rollcage. If I were to do it again, I would use a glossier paint. The rather flat color is Humbrol 128, supposedly satin. Rob
  13. You're close: it's Kurzheck (short rear) and Langheck (long rear). Maybe the designations were shortened to 'Kurz' and "Lang' but that sounds a bit un-German to my Dutch ear. Rob
  14. If you're looking for the one on the right, I have one extra. PM me if interested. Rob
  15. The earliest version of Revell paint was indeed produced by Humbrol, see the tin below. But that did not last long, I would guess from 1980 on, Revell produced the paint themselves. With Humbrol getting worse in quality every year (in my perception), I'm starting to like this Revell paint more and more. Quite a few of the range are matched to RAL colors. The pictures are from my Humbrol tin evolution webpage. Rob
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