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Chariots of Fire

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About Chariots of Fire

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 05/25/1940

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    Yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/25 and 1/32

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  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Location
    West Wareham, MA
  • Full Name
    Charles L. Rowley

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  1. Got some more work done. The basic construction is done. The waterway is complete to the basket where a deck gun would be mounted. The base of the snorkel has been screwed to the bed of the new body from the bottom. The rest of the base work can now be done knowing that it fits snugly into place. To get an idea of how the model will look I set the new body behind another Mack L and then took the photo at eye level. The boom appears to be lower than the beacon on the top of the Springfield windshield but I think that is just perspective with the boom being in the background. Get
  2. More study that actual engineering I think. Fortunately I have the photos but I also have a 1/32 scale Franklin Mint Snorkel that I can also look at and see how thing work together. Once I got started much of it came together quite smoothly.
  3. This is a new build in a scale that I am not used to building in. 1:50 scale. Exactly half of 1/25 in overall size. But this Mack L pumper had a Snorkel worked into it so we are giving it a try in brass.
  4. I put this in the wrong section. Should be in the WIP area! Future posts will be there.
  5. have had a request to build a snorkel in 1:50 scale. The snorkel will go on the back of a Corgi L model Mack pumper that will be modified accordingly. I have the blank body from which to get measurements for the mounting of the base. The Springfield Mack is the correct size so I measured the wheelbase and adjusted the photo of the Forest Lake rig to match it. The photo above is lousy, I know. But I have a profile shot of a similar one that was transferred to a CAD program for sizing. Here's the beginning of the boom and basket made of soldered brass. The basket const
  6. Len: Can you give us a look at what you are trying to do? That would help. There are several alternatives to trying to bend plastic that do not end in the plastic being in a stressed condition. Ok. Now I see. I have done similar things but I first try and take some of the stiffness out of the plastic by dragging the plastic over something round roughly where I want the bend to go. I do this several times until it becomes more pliable. Then I glue that portion of the strip that is the straightest first and then a little at a time wrap the strip in the direction I want it to go. Loo
  7. Len: Can you give us a look at what you are trying to do? That would help. There are several alternatives to trying to bend plastic that do not end in the plastic being in a stressed condition.
  8. Hi, Charlie: I found some VHT engine blue at Auto Zone. Closest I was able to find to the blue on the actual truck. Laid on nicely.
  9. Watched the progress on this build from almost the beginning. Weathering is top notch and the craftsmanship is clean. A super job on one of the toughest old trucks around. Thanks for sharing, Daniel! Much appreciated!👍
  10. No, I know you weren't and I didn't take it as a criticism!🙂 Meshanticut Fire Company in Warwick, RI had a blue Hahn back in the 1970's/80's that was pretty sharp. They are unusual, that is for sure.
  11. I know, Peter but that's what the real one's color was and it just looked right. It's a close match. Lot's of things like that in the area it is from.
  12. Believe it or not, masking tape works for a canvas roof. I have some wide painters tape that I used on a couple of projects. After painting it with some flat black and doing a bit of weathering, the texture looks just right. At least it does to me.
  13. I think that is what attracted me to it, Bob. The styling. So classic for that period. It could have been built on a Mack chassis as well either a B model, L or LJ!
  14. One thing to consider when soldering the brass would be to use a piece of aluminum rod or some other non-ferous material that would not become soldered to the hinge itself. After soldering is complete then the rod could be removed and be replaced with the rod section of brass or other material for additional strength.
  15. I recently made some seat covers on the Reo project I was doing. The seat came from a Chevy p/u and had to be narrowed up some to fit in the cab. I sprayed the seats primer gray and then made an alternating blue striped decal leaving a clear space between the blue stripes. The entire seat was then sprayed with Dullcote. And a similar thing was done for this 1953 Ford Victoria hardtop.
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