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Chariots of Fire

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About Chariots of Fire

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 05/25/1940

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    Yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/25 and 1/32

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  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Location
    West Wareham, MA
  • Full Name
    Charles L. Rowley

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  1. Second fender is now on with the left side running board. This is where the spare tire will be mounted.
  2. WOW! Does time fly! If you had asked me when that was I would have said 4-5 years ago. But 9! Must be getting old!
  3. The fenders have been cast and the process of mounting them in the right place is being done. Lots of trial and error, even with scale drawings because so many different things have to match up. I did some study of the photos in the technical manual reproduction to get some information. The rest is just getting pieces cut, fit here, cut there, sand this, match that.....etc. In the background is the mold and the two Ren Shape fender masters. They were simply glued down to a flat base like the casting at the right and a box was built around them to hold the RTV. Even with the ra
  4. I'm not a good tinker, Bob! I've tried it several times, some results not so good, others ok, The most difficult part is getting the bend at the outside edges. I tried soldering a thin strip to the fender once it was curved but that meant having to bend the strip in two different directions. Even after annealing it was not easy. So I just went with what worked before. Besides I am doing two of these rigs so making a mold meant killing two birds with one stone. Or in this case casting two sets of fenders with one mold!
  5. Here are the pieces carved from Ren Shape for the fenders. With this work completed the next task is to give them a coat of clear gloss to seal the pores and then they will be ready for casting. The block in the background of the first photo is the Ren Shape. The outline of the fender was drawn on one face and the fender was roughed out on the band saw. then the outside curves were sanded to the line drawn. Then the final underside was sanded out using a Dremel and sanding disk. In one fender I had to add a small sliver of Ren Shape to the inside but it is sanded smooth. It takes CA gl
  6. Since the last post I have made an executive decision to switch to Ren Shape for the front fenders. Having done one fender in brass the decision was easy as there is much more control over the shape. Once a set is made a mold will be made to cast two sets. One set for this one and one for the next one when it comes on the line.
  7. Work begun on the body. Basic construction is with .030" Evergreen stock. The inside of the bed came from the '41 Chevy pickup kit. It was exactly the right width and only needed to be shortened about 1/4". The raised center part of the tailgate and the front of the body raised portion were made using 0.040" half round stock. Small strip brass was used for the hinges and the upper latches. Each of the tail lights and side lights on the body are indented. So far the back ones were done by opening up each area and using a rat tail file to make the opening round. Then a piece of sheet was
  8. The axle on the Ertl P/W extends into the brake plate and it (the end of the axle) Is split with a round nub on it. When pushed into the brake plate it snaps in place and cannot be dislodged without cutting. I tried squeezing the ends together with needle nose pliers to see if I could pull the axle free after I removed the tire but it would not budge. You have to pry the tire off the rim. After doing that the outside portion of the wheel will separate from the brake plate to expose the nub on the end of the axle.
  9. Tonite we got the last of the chassis work done. The front and rear outer wheel pieces are now ready for installation and the chassis is painted. Still having issues with trying to find a good OD color in a spray can. I may try one of the auto parts stores to see what they have. The newer model paints are too dark for this vintage vehicle. Anyway here we are to date.
  10. One other thing to check. Where the ends of the axles bend upward you may have to adjust those also when you take out a section from the middle. The location of the springs is going to control how you do it.
  11. The gnomes have been busy in the shops the last few days with all of the rain we have had. Lots of detail stuff to get out of the way on the chassis. Plenty of brass works to get done and soldered up. Here's were we are as of today. A look at the various parts that have been made up for the frame and running gear. An upside down look at the axles, hubs and tie rod in place. It's up on all 4's now. Short and stubby but with a 98"wheel base and 9.00x 16 tires that's the look you get. And it is a 3/4 ton vehicle besides.
  12. I pried the tires off with a small screwdriver. The wheels as snapped onto the axles on the inside and I could not save them so I had to cut the axle just behind the wheel. If I put the diecast back together it will have to be with a new axle made like what I'm doing now.
  13. CCW it is. That is why I had to switch the fan around and put the longer cutting edge outside.
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