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v8horsepowercj

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Posts posted by v8horsepowercj

  1. I know you said you shot over it with lacquer in your post but Is the Nason good at protecting the plastic from the hotter Lacquer Paints for example have you had a chance to say remove some molded in details and then shoot a fairly wet coat of lacquer over the Nason primer and then see if it gives you any "ghosting" where the detail seems to amazingly reappear in the paint? I heard of several ppl claiming that the Nason 2 part Urethane Clear is a really good clear coat over the testors lacquer paints and after seeing some of the paint jobs I'd have to agree. I might have to get a few cans of this primer when I pick up that clear. Thanks for the comparison.

    Chris

  2. Well, paper bags have many uses like you can see here in a bomb squad.

    This is my definition of a son of a...........

    bombsquad.jpg

    Sorry, I couldn't resist ;)

    Yeah theres a good idea!!! Lets go scare the guy whos trying to disarm a BOMB mabye he'll just jump and not cross the wires up killing everything in sight LOL. Sheesh rubbing paint out with the bag sounds like a much better idea to me. I'll have to give this tip a try.

    Chris

  3. I came to this forum looking for some parts that I thought were no longer available hoping that someone here had extras that I might be able to trade for or purchase I got an immediate response to my question that directed me to the owner of the business that originally made the parts and I now have them on the way!!! Then I started looking around and the quality of the builds, skills, talent and overall extremely mature attitude not to mention EVERYONE is always very helpful with any questions you have or techniques youd like to learn....those things keep me coming back. It's just another really cool place to hang out if your into model cars.

    Chris

  4. Great Diagrams Wayne! I am a crewmember on a Outlaw Pro Modified and I've been asked by several modelers to tell them how the fuel lines are routed. I had been drawing most of mine by hand but I should be able to modify the one you posted a little to cover Pro Mods as well as top alcohol Dragsters and Funny Cars. They are very similar with the exception of running only one fuel pump and a few less return lines Also most only run injectors under the hat and into the intake runners of the blower manifold and omit running the line into the back of the cylinder heads that most AA Fuel cars run.

    Chris

  5. There are several excellent websites to find the pics your looking for. www.outlawracing.com has some excellent photos of some of the best looking (close to stock appearing) drag cars you will ever see. They base the rules around Stock Appearance and they are also limited to 10.5W or a true 10.5 tire depending on the class (they also have a class that runs DOT legal drag radials) The Cars are extremely fast!!!! You can also find numerous pics at www.dragracingonline.com. For what your looking for though I'd say one of the best websites you could look at for ref. matierials of engines is a racing classifieds website where they sell everything from motors only to complete drag cars. The name of this website is www.racingjunk.com you can browse all the stuff they have up for sale and almost every add has good quality pics. Just click on the engines section and then click on the sub section under drag racing and you should be fixed right up. I hope these help out some. Most of the sites I listed will also have a links page to tons of other pages you can check out. There's so many links for your subject of interest it would be hard to list even a 10th of them here, but these should be a really good start.

    Chris

  6. What about one of the Ross Gibson Mega Cube Ford motors. I think one of those in the 815 cubic inch range built to replicate a John Kasse IHRA Mountain Motor would look great in that Lil Comet and it's about as "Modern" as your gonna get!

    Chris

  7. I've also had the same problems with AFX I ordered several hoods and some other odds and ends and it took over 1 year and constant E-mails on my part to get my order. I explained to them (before I knew about this forum and had seen the comments about them) That I needed one of the hoods for a show I was assured that "it wouldn't take long to get my order out". Approx 8 months later I was informed that Wendell was in the hospital from a "spider bite" and that was the reason for the hold up. It seems everyone whos had problems getting their orders when they got a response something had happened to Wendell to cause the orders to be late I've heard he was bitten by a spider (twice) He's boken his leg, he'sbroken his ankle, He broke his arm etc etc I'm not one to kick someone when they are down at all but If I had all that happen everytime I got an order I'd shut down the buss. or never leave the house! However two weeks ago I placed an order with Competition Resins I received an E-mail confirming my order within 2 hours! I was told the order would take somewhere around 2 weeks to ship In one week I came home and the items were on my doorstep packaged carefully and upon examination of the items ordered they were flawless the first thing I did was go to the PC and send them a TY E-mail when you get that kind of customer service and a flawless product packaged carefully and shipped in a timely manner it's very hard to look elsewhere even when theres only one company that's casting the piece you desire.

    Chris

  8. There are so many wires on MSD setups that it can become difficult very quickly to do in scale as there are so many options that can be added on race cars for instance RPM switches, timing retard modules, timing computers etc can be used with the MSD boxes to activate numerous functions from NOS systems to shift solenoids it's almost endless. On the 1:1's the MSD hooks to the Distributor via a small plastic clip (basically 2 wires from the MSD connect to 2 wires on the distributor via a quick disconnect clip) so basically in scale you could tie your MSD box to the distributor with very fine detail wire. Then run a power lead from the MSD box to a power source and one more wire lead from the MSD box to a ground source on the chassis should suffice for good detail as well as being believeable. Also as stated above the firing order on a stock setup chevy small and big block is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 keep in mind on a chevy this runs in a clockwise fashion looking down from the top at the distributor cap. The cylinders are numbered on a chevy as follows: on the drivers side from front of the engine to the rear 1-3-5-7 and the passenger side from front to rear 2-4-6-8. Also as stated above other than the firing order I usually don't get super involved in the palcement of the wiring as long as it looks good and is believable that's what I go for also keeping the detailing somewhat equal throughout the build i.e. detail the interior as much as you do the engine compartment. I hope this helps you out some and I wish you the Best of luck with your build. Let us know how it turns out.

    Chris

  9. Down here, in South Florida we have Micheals Arts and Crafts. I checked there but no luck.

    Hi guys I'm new on here but while trolling around I saw your question and thought I might be able to help out. If you have a lighting store (the kind that do concerts and club shows) and even some music stores that sell portable lighting trees try asking them if they have any "lighting gels" in stock. These are basically super thin heat resistant sheets that are dropped in the square brackets on portable lighting trees to change the white spotlights to different colors. Some colors are less "transparent" than others but most should work fine for any modeling purposes such as colored tint etc.They are fairly easy to work with and cut easily with plain scissors.

    Hope this helps you out.

    Chris

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