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Chris1992

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Posts posted by Chris1992

  1. Hi everyone. 

    About a year ago I bought some Milliput modelling putty for a build I was working on at the time. I didn't use much at the time, so I stored it away for later. Fast forward to present day, and I'm working on a build which requires lots of scratch-building, so I got the Milliput back out to find that one of the sticks had developed a hard yellowy skin on the outside. It seemed to blend ok though after mixing it with the other stick, so I went ahead and applied it to the parts I'm working on. Now a week later it still hasn't fully hardened, and I'm having to scrape it off which is ruining parts of my build. I'm certain it was properly mixed, and i know I'm a fool for not testing it. I'm kicking myself over it now. 

    Has anyone else experienced this with Milliput? Can anyone recommend a better brand of putty that will actually last in storage? Or is this a common trait for putty in general? 

    Thanks

    Chris

  2. Hi everyone, I've been scratch building some bumpers and dog dish hubcaps for my most recent build, and I'd quite like to finish them in chrome. I know it is pretty much impossible to get a good chrome finish with paint, so if anyone has any suggestions on how to get a chrome finish on scratch built parts then that would be great! 

    Thanks

    Chris

  3. Hi everyone, so I'm in the process of building a 1/24 scale replica of my real life car, and am trying to be as accurate as possible. One hurdle I've come up a against is that I have a fair few decals and stickers in the windows of my car, and would love to replicate them in 1/24 scale, but haven't got the faintest idea how to go about doing this. Is there a way of making my own water transfer decals at home? Or are there any other tricks people have used? 

    Thanks

    Chris 

  4. Hi everyone, so I'm currently building a scale replica of my real world car, and have managed to find some scale wheels and tires that match the look perfectly, but the only problem is they are far too wide! This isn't a problem for the wheels themselves as I can cut them with a craft knife easily, however I am unsure how to tackle the tires. I really don't want to make a mess of it, so I just thought I'd ask first in case anyone has any tips. 

    Thanks guys,

    Chris

  5. I think everyone else has covered it pretty well by now, but one more can't hurt ;) 

    This has to be one of my favourite engine bays I've seen on here! The wiring is immaculately organised, and I'm a sucker for a big scoop! Don't you dare scrap that beauty haha. 

  6. So an hour ago I was about to go to bed, but then I stumbled across this thread and just had to read the whole thing. It's now 1:30am here in the UK but my God it was worth it!! This is some next level stuff, absolutely incredible! 

  7. Thanks Gary. Yes although I have a stock of tyre decals, I had not seen this one with double decals on each tyre. I couldn't get the Tamiya ones to work as they are the reverse type. But mine are the yellow Dunlop ones so I tried out and it looks great! 

    The McLaren tyre decals are the make on one edge and the tyre info on the opposite edge, also interesting. I also use the tyre logo's on road cars/vans/trucks/beach buggies etc to add a bit more interest. 

    This is a great looking model! I have a soft spot for Le Mans cars as I go to the race every year :) 

    Would you mind telling me where you got the tyre logos? I've been looking for something similar for one of my builds but can't find anything! 

  8. Chris, this is my own personal opinion, but I'm of the big belief that solid colors need no clear coat to come out nice. There's enough hardener in the paint that if you spend the time to rub out and polish the paint, clear coat is wholly unnecessary.

    Some will disagree, but that's how I've been doing paint jobs for many years now. Metallic paint yes........solid colors, no clear coat.

    As far as the drying time...........that's a tough one as it'll depend on the climate you're experiencing right now. I tend to wait about a week before doing any rubbing out and polishing. Some may say that's a bit long, but my rule of thumb is if you can no longer smell the paint, then it should be sufficiently dry.

    Hope all this helps!

     

    That's some great advice, thanks very much! I had considered simply polishing the solid colour, but all the tutorials I've watched used clear, although come to think of it, they were all metallic colours too, so it makes sense! lol.

    I'd rather be safe than sorry, so I'll definitely give it lots of time before pressing on with rubbing an polishing. 

    Thanks again! 

  9. Looks awesome! I feel bad, but I had to laugh at the plug hole incident haha. As it's in need of an engine, why not drop the 2jz from the Supra kit in there if you have it spare? Or is that too much blasphemy? lol

    P.S. Nice to see another Brit on here too! ;) 

  10. Hi guys! So I've just sprayed the body of my current project with Tamiya TS-14, and over all I'm reasonably happy with the finish, although it has some slight eggshell. 

    I'm planning on spraying it with a couple coats of TS-13 clear, and then flatting and polishing it, but I have a few queries.

    Firstly, should I flat the colour coat before spraying the clear to remove the eggshell? Or will this ruin it? Secondly, how long should I wait before spraying the clear? I have heard horror stories from people who sprayed the clear the next day, and then experienced cracking due to a difference in drying times. The Tamiya site suggests up to a week, but others have told me to wait up to a month! Has anyone used these paints before and could maybe offer some advice? 

    Thanks

    Chris

  11. Looks great! Love the little Gulf logo :) It's also funny that you mention Le Mans; every year I take a road trip with a bunch of buddies to see the race in person (I'm in the UK which makes life easier). It's the best weekend of the year by far for me! The racing this year was especially exciting! 

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