bobss396

Nicely done!

Sometimes I place a small piece of masking tape loosely on the oil pan or transmission. Just to keep them clean and not nicked up during fitting, etc. If I'm going to hand-paint the transmission, I save that for very late in the build.

I had a Bullitt '68 in black with the 390, 4-speed and Detroit Locker rear. I sold it in '84 to finance my stock car habit.

Goo Gone works with removing BMF adhesive. I would give it a wash after for sure, good old dish soap and warm water.

I have had problems with this too. There are too many variables to consider clearing decals.

I have a few razor saws that I use all the time. They hang in unless you are cutting hard materials. I agree on the MCG PE saw blades, very flexible and hard-ish to break. I have an upcoming project where I'll be grafting some 3D printed items into an existing chassis or possibly making a whole new chassis. I have rough-cut chassis stubs off before and used my Bridgeport mill to cut the rest off squarely and accurately. I hold the chassis/floor pan in the vise. It is always fun putting things back together keeping them square and parallel, etc. I use graph paper and a steel scale for most of that. I had taped a piece to some 1/8" steel stock and used magnets (cabinet catch parts) to block it up so I could tack-glue it together.

VCG Resins has one you may like. https://www.vcgresins.com/shop/p/off-road-winch

Very nice... any Flintstone resin product is a challenge.

CA glue will fog clear and chrome, so that is out. Now all I use is 2-part 5-minute epoxy, wait until it thickens up so it won't run where you don't want it. Lately I have made up mounting tabs so the glass will "nest" in place and won't move around. I will use little strips of tape to hold the glass. Apply a few dabs of epoxy and remove the tape later on.

When in doubt, run a test of some unused decals if possible. Slixx used to be impervious to clears like Tamiya TS-13. Lacquer clears, you may be asking for trouble. I used Krylon acrylic over some kit decals... one almost immediately cracked into a million pieces. I figured I would wait and sand it off once dry. I looked at it a few hours later and the decal somehow fixed itself, no sign it was damaged. It laid back down. Clear, I would go with light-ish coats. I did that '37 Chevy modified, no clear over the decals and the car is pearl white. That was 12 years ago and the number decals have yellowed around the edges.

I bought a set...

Coo Coo Marlin was the guy who ran the pre-Daytons 500 twin 100 mile races without a fuel stop and WON one of them. NASCAR and other big named teams had a collective canary over an independent driver pulling that off. This is why they went to 125 miles the next year.

This is what I have for my build, lots more than what comes in with the kit sheet. I have not been to Randy's site in a while. With hope the decals are still around. I would try to see if Mike's Decals possibly has them. https://www.mikesdecals.com/products_new.php

Those are thick. I have been using sanding sticks from a beauty supply store. The brand is Tropical Shine and they last a long time, providing they get washed when they get loaded up. Great for wet sanding too.

One of those iconic kits. I always liked the steerable wheels and opening doors.

Not sure if I have that same kit, I have several Monte kits and a set of Yesterday's decals for it. On my bucket list to build.

You make things that we need, we appreciate it. I buy so far on eBay but will check your site out.

What size wire fits through the boots? I have been using larger gauge wire to get my boots. Thanks.

That purple is quite rich... noted for future builds.

This kit is the same as the original issue. For more detail you could slip a '62 chassis under it.

The one by me they rearranged the model section, looks a tad smaller. Paint and scratch building stuff is about the same. They have a decent amount of glues too.

I have a HL by me and they have the 40% off thing going pretty often. I buy my primer there, they also have MM lacquer spray cans, some Evergreen and some K&S stock. Need plastic storage boxes? They have loads of them for a good price. Also small plastic bags in the bead aisle.

I have the Evergreen version, it works great on thin stuff and handy to make a bunch of the same part.

This keeps me off the street. A '59 Ford Custom 300 I picked up in Denver in 2014 as a shell. I put in a 355 SBC worth about 425 HP, Muncie M20, 3.89 locker rear. Underneath the car, everything is new.

I sell now and then at shows, but not 2-3 a year. You need to find guys like Len Feinberg and Dave Burkett (aka Model King). They do shows in the north-east. I know of one guy in my club that does shows, I'll ask him if he is interested. So far I buy your products on eBay, our few local shops stock almost no after market parts at all. And they have no interest in getting that going, they mainly do RC cars.