bobss396

I have a serious Jones to build that brown LTD...

I will try to take pictures later on, I have to dig out my good camera or try posting from my phone. I am a little on the urban-amish side at times... So far the build is on day 4 and I have a lot done. I'm waiting for the 3D 250, it may impact the floor pan, my biggest fear. I have lots of it pinned to make assembly easy, put angled plastic stock on the interior sides to hole it better for final assembly. I have a built up Fleetline I need to look at for some questions I have on the front end assembly. I'm sort of following what I recall from the early figure-8 days at the local tracks. I have seen some videos from around 1970 (world championship) that are great reference. The RF safety hubs came along at a later date. Most F8 cars were close to stock before 1975, like any other class they evolved.

I started one on Sunday, the hardtop version I got years ago partially built. I had to rip the rear out, broke one leaf spring, an easy fix. It is going back in with 3/64" brass rod. I'm going to pin the entire front end in a similar fashion. I was considering another 6 engine, the AMT '60 Chevy truck has an excellent one. But no speed equipment. My car will be a figure-8 stock car. I ran across a nice 250 from VCG resins, they also make a stock version. The body will be modified, no corrections will be made outside of thinning the window openings. On the hardtop kit, the rear and front glass are separate pieces.

A completely new-tool '63 and '64 would be cool. I'd like to see a '63 box-top roof version.

Keeping that glass nice and clean is a model in itself. Well done.

Nice days of decals... I'd be looking to commit hari-kari at the day 2 point.... nicely done!

I have heard about holding the primed model up to a mirror with a strong light behind it to reveal flaws. I tried it once in a bathroom setting... it does work. I usually take my glasses off and look it over carefully with a good coat of primer on it.

I would attempt to make a mirror-image replica from styrene using the good side as reference. Over size, then whack the bad one off at a 45 degree angle, cut the new piece to fit. I would make the inner structure first so that the glass has a nest to fall into.

I started using Mr, Hobby primers a few months ago, good stuff but $9.99 a can. Duplicolor, you cannot miss with that. I have also used some SEM and Transtar auto body primers with lacquers.

I will have to dig it out, I put all my stalled... I mean in process work away for my holiday house cleaning. The ribbon has 2 textures depending on which side is up.

At shows, whoever I go with I tell them, do NOT let me buy any resin bodies. I have made rare exceptions in the case of something Norm Veber has. I did my recent '64 Fairlane stock car with a Big Donkey body... should have used a kit body, would have saved me 90% of the effort.

That is a great red and I like the wheels. I find that I have to test fit everything on a model. I like to "pin" the body to the chassis, front and back, so it goes together the same time all the time. I make up hidden tabs to secure the bumpers if need be. Glass and dash fits... can give us fits. I have been taking about 1/16" from each chassis side before I do anything. I also sand some from behind the rocker panels so it fits together will less stress. I put a radius where it won't show, less chance of scraping the paint. Too many models, the body curves in at the bottom for some reason, quite excessively.

Kit decals or after market? It really looks nice, I try to avoid handling very large sections of decals. It either makes or breaks a build.

The '57 grillles always looked great on the '60.

I had the '68 kit with the trailer, IIRC I never even painted either of them. MPC had some awesome kits back then.

Nice work, everything has to be lined up perfectly or else it looks bad. One other I saw that came out well, the seats and interior panels were gutted. The pleated parts were installed in those "windows".

That type of site is what we need. I like one-stop shopping. There was a great site, Scale Dreams where I could get almost anything I wanted.

I like the nose-up look myself. Some kits have fairly well nailed it, like the AMT '37 Chevy and the Revell Willys kits. Even the good old AMT '55 Nomad kit does it for me.

I have a bunch of flat ribbon (saved from gifts) I use for seat belts and floor mats. For the mats, if I put a crease in them, they will lay flat. I have some material in a pale yellow, I color it with a sharpie.

I recently learned that a former club member Mike McCauley has passed away. He built older NASCAR modifieds and did a nice job with them. Someone said that his health had been in a decline for a while.

I have a hate-hate relationship with resin bodies. I did a '64 Fairlane stock car recently from Big Donkey Resins. I should have used a kit body. Flintstone's stuff is often extra thick, you need that Dremel to thin it out. I only buy resin at shows where I can pick my poison.

I use white glue, pulls apart easily enough. I have used 2-sided tape too.

Vacu-forming one is probably the answer. Make up a simple smooth wood buck and give it a go. You could try sanding the kit piece thinner, but they get fragile fast. And you'd be polishing it forever.

Looks like my stepmother, but 1/2 as ugly...

My 1st stock car ride was in a '72 Torino with a 429 under the hood, finished 8th at Riverhead with it in '82. I ran it about a dozen times after with the worst finish being 8th and the best was 2nd twice. The car was re-skinned in '83 with a Montego body, similar to the resin piece here.