El Roberto
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Posts posted by El Roberto
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I went to my model club meeting last friday which was a swap meet. While wandering around I saw a box of paint and looked a little closer and it was full of Model Masters Metalizers. They weren't for sale, they were free. The guy used to own a hobby shop a couple of years ago and was getting rid of them. So I loaded up while saving a few for other people (I'm a nice guy) (or dumb) depending on your point of view.
Anyway, I'm going to horde these and they should last for several years. HOO HAA
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On 1/29/2024 at 8:06 PM, Bainford said:
MM Metalizers are pretty hard to beat, especially the buffing Metalizers. They are ridiculously easy to apply, and the Aluminum Plate Buffing Metailzer is pure magic. And tough as nails, too. I have experimented with very aggressive buffing of the paint, and it just gets better looking. All the Metalizers were great for dry brushing details, too. I have a small stash, but it won't last forever, so I have been curious about alternatives, too.
I use the Alclad metal paints quite a bit now. Like the Metalizers, they are airbrush-ready lacquer and are easy to apply. The results are generally pleasing, though nothing like the buffing Metalizers. https://alclad2.com/finishes/regular/
I am curious about the AK Interactive Xtreme Metal paints, but haven't tried them yet. https://ak-interactive.com/product-category/paints/xtreme-metal-paints/ These are also airbrush-ready. I am told they are enamels, but have been unable to confirm and not sure I believe it.
There are also some acrylic options that I see on the forum that look quite impressive, but I have no knowledge or experience with them at all.
Yep, they are enamels and they are very nice. Don't have to but a black base coat like Alclad. Their chrome isn't great but the others like magnesium, aluminum etc. are very good.
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The flattest (dead flat) I've ever used is AK Ultra Matte. Great for places where you aren't going to be handling the surface. Terrible for bodies etc cause it's very fragile. You can rub it off with your finger.
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Oops, I forgot to check the archives for answers. Anyway....what primer would you recommend?
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Could I get some feedback about Tru-color pearl paint? Tru color says it's a "hot" acrylic whatever that means.
Thanks
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Try sanding the whole sheet of photo etch with fine sandpaper, then prime and paint.
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On 6/3/2023 at 9:05 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:
Geez Louise. You can get fluffy-ended makeup brushes (assuming you're secure enough in your masculinity to walk into a beauty-supply store) for not a lot of bucks. They're perfect for cleaning models. I got a whole set of 'em in different sizes for less than $10. In a nice steel box.
And the ones you don't use for cleaning are great for applying weathering chalks.
Buy them? My wife has had issues with some of her make up brushes and sponges mysteriously disappearing. Very strange.....
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I use tamiya panel wash over acrylics with no ill effects. BE SURE to use it only on a gloss finish.
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18 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
No matter the manufacturer, they’re all going to be expensive.
Steve
Woah...you were right, I didn't want one That much.
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Is there anywhere to find a Oldsmobile toronado kit?
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Spray the Tamiya clear colors on the inside of the windshield, then you don't need a clear coat.
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I'm beginning to really dislike BMF. It won't stick where you want it to and sticks where you don't.
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I tried it for masking aircraft canopies but it left residue behind so I quit using it.
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There's also Tamiya or AK Interactive NATO Black. I use it on all my aircraft builds that require black. Both are flat paints but could be clear coated easily.
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I saw that video and the paint looks very good, however.........35 bucks for a little spray can seems a little steep.
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I built one of these a few months ago. It's a really nice kit, you'll enjoy building it. I have a problem with storage space, so I started building 1/72 scale stuff but they are hard to see small parts when building.
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I've got a really big work bench, however I end up with a 1 ft. square space to work on.
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On 1/10/2023 at 6:36 PM, Dpate said:
There 2nd or 3rd gen? I've been eyeing this stuff for awhile myself, AK makes good products. Been wanting to try the satin and matte myself. Not sure about the 2nd gen but the 3rd gen i know needs thinning with there acrylic thinner.
The instructions say to thin with acrylic thinner, if necessary. I haven't had to thin it.
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I bought a bottle of AK Ultra Matte on Amazon the other day. It's without a doubt the dullest finish I've ever seen. Try it, you'll like it.
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On 9/25/2022 at 8:26 AM, Jordan White said:
x2, I always clearcoat mine too since if there is any hazing, it eliminates it.
On a slightly separate note, with how high the prices are getting on the Duplicolor paint nowadays, it is now getting more cost effective to get the larger cans from a site like automotivetouchup.com, especially since their paint lays on perfectly every time for me and it doesn't get as much, or any, hazing compared to Duplicolor.
Yeah, the can was pretty pricey. I used a dark red pearl and it polished out very nicely. I haven't decided if the extra cost was worth the result though.
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I polished it out and the problem was solved.
Thanks for all the input.
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I didn't think of the humidity factor. Yeah It's been raining on and off today. I'll polish till it shines (I hope). I live in New Mexico and it's usually very dry so I don't have much experience painting when it's really humid
Thanks for the advice.
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I decided to try Dupli-Color perfect match and am having some problems.
I primed the test piece with Mr Color 1000 surface primer and when I apply the paint it goes on beautifully glossy, but when dry it's glossy in some spots, dull in others.
Sprayed 3 coats and the same result. The dull areas don't show up in the same place each time.
Any ideas?
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Here's another source, been buying micro bits from them for quite a while. drillbitsunlimited.com
Inexpensive solvent based glue
in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Posted
I looked up MEK on line and WallyWorld had it in quart cans for a trifling $85.00. OK does anyone know if the MEK substitute will work for a cement?