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Modeldude428

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Posts posted by Modeldude428

  1. I kind of agree with both sides of this I love Tamiya as far as airbrushing with their paints though I have never attempted to airbrush their colors without thinning them I have only use the acrylics on the other hand I think Tamiya paint sucks as far as using them for brushing which leads me to my next question what other paints are there that I could use to hand brush with because it seems to me to Tamiya paint to dry really really fast when your hand painting with them which in turn leaves streaks any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

  2. Okay so this is my question now realizing where my problems have been coming from I'm realizing that I've been using Tamiya paints to hand paint with I've gotten in a good habit of only airbrushing bigger Parts in the bodies of my car the inside I like to do by hand so my question is I'm wondering what paints are you guys using if you're doing any kind of hand painting because I know Tamiya paint suck I like to stick with acrylic any answered was would be greatly appreciated

  3. 23 hours ago, espo said:

    I would use the White Primer on any color if you are trying to brighten the color. The Tamiya Blue can be used either way with Gray or White Primer. The color Pigment in the Blue is such that it really doesn't seem to make much of a difference in this case. My experience has been that the lighter colors respond more to the color of the Primer than the darker colors. I think the standard response to your question is to try a couple of plastic pick nick spoons before you ever paint your actual model no mater what color or brand of paint you are using. This will save you many hours of striping paint and cussing because the color didn't turn out the way you wanted it to. Hope this helps and good luck to you.      

    Thanks bro that's a awsome idea never thought about that omg I feel slow now lol

  4. 4 hours ago, espo said:

    I would use the White Primer on any color if you are trying to brighten the color. The Tamiya Blue can be used either way with Gray or White Primer. The color Pigment in the Blue is such that it really doesn't seem to make much of a difference in this case. My experience has been that the lighter colors respond more to the color of the Primer than the darker colors. I think the standard response to your question is to try a couple of plastic pick nick spoons before you ever paint your actual model no mater what color or brand of paint you are using. This will save you many hours of striping paint and cussing because the color didn't turn out the way you wanted it to. Hope this helps and good luck to you.      

    Thanks bro that's a awsome idea never thought about that omg I feel slow now lol

  5. Wow guys you are all awsome thanks so much I took a lot of you guys advice I picked up some  less violent sandpaper  sanded everything back down  it actually worked out really really well it's not perfect but I still have my detail lines and I do have a good base coat down so I really appreciate everybody  for the awesome help soon as I figure out how to post pictures I'd love to post the body to see what you guys think of how it looks now with the primer coat on it

    17 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

    In the first place, 120 grit is WAY TOO COARSE. If someone on a video recommended that grit, he's an idiot.

    NEVER use anything coarser than 180, and even that's too coarse unless you REALLY know what you're doing.

    (In sandpaper, bigger numbers are FINER...and 400 is about as coarse as you really want to go on plastic)

    All that said, you're pretty much screwed at this point.

    The only way to get rid of the sanding scratches is going to be to sand with much finer paper, and possibly re-primer, then re-sand and re-prime as necessary.

    Another problem that arises now is that all that sanding and primering will obliterate fine surface details.

    In future, it's MUCH better to remove the mold parting-lines ("the lines on the plastic that didn't need to be there") VERY CAREFULLY with files and control where you let the scratches go.

    When you remove parting lines with sandpaper, scratches spread all over the model, far away from what you're trying to correct, and you face the problem you now have.

    And let this be a warning...MUCH of the "expert" advice posted on YouTube is just flat WRONG...about REAL cars as well as models...and everything else.

    Thanks a lot for the awesome advice to be quite honest with you I don't know how I did it but I actually saved it I didn't realize what you were saying about the Sandpaper being too thick too much grit so I did use a much finer one and I use a trick that a friend of mine showed me how to use this razor in actually get the lines back which I did send it again and then sprayed it Here's the final results

  6. I'm wondering if anyone has any way they can help me out I've never really did much when it came to Preparing the body of the car before painting never really got that much into it but lately I've been trying to do better and get better at it so I was watching a video not too long ago about sanding down the car using a marker finding the lines on the plastic that didn't need to be there so I did that I used 120 grit sandpaper and then use a polishing  stick  to try and buff out the scratch marks and then added a coat of Grey Tamiya primer one coat only but I can still see the scratch marks from using the Sandpaper I don't want to go any further until I figure out what to do is there anyone out there that can give me a hand if pictures are needed I can definitely send them need help ASAP

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