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bill-e-boy

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About bill-e-boy

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    1/25

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    New Zealand
  • Full Name
    Bill Redward

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  1. Ok -on with the modifications The original motor was mounted via a plate to the rear of the head stock As this would not be the case with the new motor I mounted the motor and the lathe on a piece 3mm ally plate. The motor mount holes were slotted to allow belt tensioning. The plate has rubber feet to stop the whole lot moving around the bench when it was running The motor and the lathe were dully mounted onto the plate The motor wired to the VSD and a control box mounted on top of the motor with the run/off switch and speed dial pot The VSD is set up
  2. Thanks for replies Bruda - I take note of comment re title - but not sure on how to change Peteski - 3ph motor may be overkill as far as size - its just the smallest motor I could get hold of. The main focus of the exercise was to have variable speed but without the drop off in torque as happens with the original motor. I could have sourced a smaller DC motor and drive but as I already had an AC drive available I decided to go down this route Ace-Garageguy - my big lathe is about half way between yours and a Unimat 3 or SL
  3. I am not sure if this is the correct Topic to put this post under but it is the closest I can see where it would fit In a nutshell I scored a used Emco Unimat 3 mini lathe via the local (NZ) online auction site The lathe was complete with all the usual fittings and had the milling attachment as a bonus. Also had lots of extras like tooling and other little doodads that often come with second gear. It was a little tatty though. The milling attachment is at the top of the photo I cleaned it up and freed up some stiff handle knobs. I did not take a chance so I replaced the ma
  4. Hi Alan, thanks for the kind words Royce was close to 6ft tall and he had issues with the cramped confines of the cab but he still drove it around. I remember he and another rodder drove from Palmerston North to Auckland in the middle of winter to enter into a show. Auckland is about 500km from Palmy. He also went to the South Island in it too. The guy who has the pick up now said its pretty hard to get into and out of I just remembered the back section of the body is the remainder of the top of the 26 T When I made up the buttons I made heaps as stretching sprue is an inexact
  5. Pix of lathe - it has had the original motor replaced with a the smallest three phase motor I could find and fitted with a variable speed drive.
  6. One of the major stumbling blocks that I could see was the headers. The originals were made from Holden car tail pipes and snake around the radius rods. The collectors were made from flathead oil filter housing. This was a novel idea but filter housings in 1/25th are few and far between. The other block was chrome plating. When I first started the model just 20 years ago there was no chrome paint systems available. My first attempt at the headers was not a great success but a couple of attempts later I ended up with that in the pix below. The motor is from an AMT 40 Ford but this has now
  7. Chop looking good. For some reason the sedan looks better when you lay back the A pillar rather than stretching the roof line between the A and B pillars as you do on a coupe - either 3 or 5 window I will take note of how you did it as I have a chop on a 32 Sedan on my wish list. Did one on a AMT Sedan years ago before they became unobtainable. I layed the screen back on this. The blue windows is a nod to @tim boyd
  8. Some more pix of where I am at The rear of the cab if upholstered in vinyl and has a mountain of buttons. The method to make these was to heat stretch some sprue and then cutting into 10mm long pieces. These were placed close to a hot soldering iron to make one mushroom head. Meanwhile the button pattern was marked out on the cab and holes drilled and then countersunk. The next step was to insert the button into a hole cut to length and mushroom with the soldering iron - it took some time from memory So we now have buttons on both sides The assembled cab
  9. Moebius Chrysler 300B done in a restomod syle The modification list is long The car is lowered quite a bit - in the rear by moving spring shackle mounts up. In the front with dropped spindles giving a total of 3" in the back and 4" in the front for a nice bit of rake Engine has an air cleaner similar in style to the original but with dry elements rather than the water bath Engine and engine bay has been detailed along with machined brake booster, brake lines, 12V battery and cables Wheels upgrade to big inch with disc brakes Interior detailed and steeri
  10. Nice build Makes me green with envy
  11. I 2nd - Is that a photo of the model, or 1:1 vehicle? Seriously - I thought I was looking at 1:1 scale. Only after I started looking more carefully at things like the wiper arm, the cowl vents, and the shape of the water pump, I realized it is a model. It looks great
  12. Yonks ago a local rodder - Royce Fisher - built a closed cab from a cut down 26 T Tudor sedan. The build started in the early-mid 60's and was on the road in late 60's. I remember seeing it in 69 at a gas station. I lived about 45 minute drive away from the city where the Royce was based. I eventually moved there too. The NZ Hot Rod magazine article attached is from 73 and I remember attending that show. The club that Royce was a founding member of is having their 50th anniversary this year. Unfortunately Royce passed a number of years ago but he is remembered and the profile of his pickup is
  13. I have used a number of different sizes of copper wire for winding springs. Typically if you strip some electronics type wire they have 3-7 cores that are fairly small. some are even tinned which looks a bit like zinc plating. Also the local electronics store has small rewind wire in small rolls. Small electrical wire can be used for allsorts - hoses, battery cables etc - and is available in all sorts of sizes - most people chuck a lot of it out You need to wind the wire around a former such as 1/64 piano wire. The scale size of a lot of throttle return springs is about 3/4-1" dia = .75-1
  14. I wasn't happy with the 6V battery so found one in the parts box and detailed it up I am impressed with the tail light detail - looks very real More work getting bling added. I now have parts A and B With a bit of work A+B+C Some more work yet before I get it "Under Glass" but it will be soon
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