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About Sandboarder

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    Chris Clinton

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  1. Here is a more recent thread that I think covers everything with more current information;
  2. Great idea!! The wagon is a great base with the tail gate and 1/2 of the tray. Your chop looks well planned up and a good choice. 5 stud MK 1 are a good choice very Japanese while retaining a classic centreline look.
  3. Damm!! That’s awesome!!! Great detail work. Good selection of colour but the weathering really brings it to life and looks great!!
  4. I have no idea which size is correct for a street car but the Drag racing kits I’ve build have large ones. Easy way to think about 1/24 or 1/25 scale is 1mm equals 1 inch. I know not everyone uses the metric system but if oldnslow says 3” then the 3mm rod would be correct. Easier then working out 0.120 IMO
  5. You’ll probably want to buy something like this from a hobby shop.
  6. Don’t use flat clear before washes etc. Use a semi-gloss or gloss however ever it’s not needed. When fully dry lacquer paint is very tough. The enamel and acrylic thinners will not harm the base paint. Lacquer thinner will destroy you base paint. I assume your washes and filters etc will be enamel, water based acrylic or oil paints.
  7. A really well thought out build plan with a great idea and a good kit to start with. You have been given some good advice but I’d like to mention a couple of things. Red plastic when primered and sprayed in silver generally won’t bleed tho. If the primer can’t stop it the silver paint will. Now I see you have AK Extreme metal which is Enamel paint. You have acrylic Tamiya paints. The X-25 clear green would be your final colour coat. Do not use TS-13 lacquer from a rattle can over this as it WILL melt/dissolve/damage the acrylic clear green. Stick with simila
  8. Wow!! I see a lot of influences in this build. The custom grill and tail lights suit the car’s body perfectly. The fully shaved look and the black paint is a great choice.
  9. PS Tamiya paint is like a rubberised strange paint designed to flex when applied to RC body’s. Which I believe are painted on the inside so getting a smooth surface isn’t as important as being able to flex and move. don’t use the PS line of paints IMO
  10. Fantastic work so far!! Looks like you’ve taken advantage of the way these kits are designed. The body is looking great, the interior detailed up nicely and the stance and wheels will make it shine.
  11. Some, only the weathering products and they are great. Very high quality and work very well, doing exactly what I expected of them.
  12. Really enjoying this build. Great colour choices and that gold pearl looks amazing as it show of the body cures and highlights edge as it catches the light
  13. Watch Lincoln Wright’s YouTube videos. He’s also called Painting on Plastic and has a great video about painting with rattle cans. Lots of cool tips that I use.
  14. Clearly scale was doing some stuff that you might find interesting. https://www.modelbuilderswh.com/collections/detail-parts/products/gm-l53-efi-v8-engine-set-1-25th-scale Seems like more guys (on here) build old cars to 100% factory spec but hopefully someone else know if some more companies to help you. Also maybe the 3D printing guys can help you out.
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