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About papajohn97

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    MCM Friend

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    Thousand Oaks, CA
  • Full Name
    John Barker

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  1. Hi Bob, I think I used Alclad magnesium over gloss black enamel. I'm hoping to phase out of Alclad and find something that doesn't require a black gloss base and that is less fragile. I just ordered some Mr Color metalizer and have Zero metalizer on back order, I'll let you know if these work easier/ better/ more durable than Alclad. I got to see this actual car on my very first trip to the drags (in '64 - I was 11). It was the cleanest prettiest most dazzling car there that day and a crowd favorite. I drive a bright red Mazda sedan these days, it's "Soul Red Crystal" in color, when
  2. I cut the snap-fit tabs off the rear lower edges of the hood and filled in the mating notches in the body with styrene strips and putty. No idea why Revell thought these features were necessary to begin with… ?
  3. Beautiful job on an ancient kit! I’m really impressed that you were able to get the roof retraction mechanism working. I remember looking down into the rear roof storage bay in a 1:1 Ford Retractable at a car show years ago and being mystified by all the linkages, relays and wiring. Looked like a nightmare to do repairs on.
  4. Very clean build. I like the sleeper look you achieved with the steelies and the dog dish wheel caps. I noticed you removed the mid portions of the stock exhausts but left the mufflers in place - are the mufflers molded into the chassis?
  5. That’s pretty cool! The lace paint effect on the top is very well done!
  6. Beautiful clean build. I like the understated champagne and black, a nice change from the brighter colors you usually see for these (grabber blue, mint green, bright orange or red). The wheels are my favorite part.
  7. Great job David! I love that you used different shades of blue for each. That Galaxie is particularly stunning with the white roof and interior. I thought about getting this re-release for the Falcon but read that it uses the old AMT Mustang funny car chassis and engine which is disappointing. Your Falcon actually looks much better over this chassis than the Mustang IMO.
  8. Okay, this has got to be one of the most boring looking drag cars ever posted on here but I needed an early Ford super stocker to round out my 1/25 collection of early 60's super stockers and in '61 - '62 they were all pretty unsexy. This model was intended to reproduce 1 of the 11 "factory lightweight" super stock cars with the new 406 cu. in. V-8's and dual Holley carbs that Ford had Dearborn Steel Tubing Corp. make from bone stock stripped-down Galaxy sedans. NHRA made them classify these cars as factory experimental because of all the non-factory-optional mods such as the fiberglass and al
  9. Thanks Bogger44, I removed the rear quarter windows by drilling out the inside profiles with a small drill (1/16”?) cutting the remaining connections with an X-acto, cleaning up the rough edges with the same X-acto and then taking a course, medium snd fine sanding sticks to clean up the final frame. It’s an easy mod to do. I used the kit part for the front/ rear glass and .005” thick clear styrene sheet for the sides.
  10. Hey Bill72sj, you’re on, let’s go! May the faster cammer win! Love the amazing job you’re doing on that sweet ‘67, keep going please! I have the Revell 1/24 ‘65 2+2 kit in the stash with an extra Moebius ‘65 Comet Dyno Don A/FX kit for the donor SOHC that I want to use to build Les Richey’s non-AWB car: Hoping the 1/25 wide cammer engine will fit into the 1/24 engine bay with a minimal amount of mods. A pair of big Fireball Holley’s on the top should help fool the eyes that it’s all of one scale. I’m just waiting for some custom decals before I start.
  11. Thanks everyone for the compliments, so nice to share builds here and not just add them to the big plastic storage box in the top of my side of the bedroom closet to be forgotten! The injector velocity stacks and front leaf springs are from speedcityresin.com. The distributor, plug wires and looms are from Detail Master. The fuel lines are made from 0.5 mm solder and the fuel pump and fuel log junction is scratch built from styrene rod and sheet. I used a round piece of photo etch from my spares box for the front bulkhead detail on the fuel pump, this piece probably coming from an Eduard 1
  12. Gorgeous meticulous super-clean build Harry! Hard to believe this one is only your fifth effort, you obviously pick up skills and learn fast! I think the ability to research techniques and learn from each other over the web has made us all much better builders than we were as kids. I love the engine detail you achieveed on this fuelie. I built the Revell ‘57 Chev black window a few years ago and the 283 FI engine compartment didn’t come anywhere near as nice as yours. Your metalixing on the mechanicals is A+. And that interior is so realistic and sweet! I’ve been airbrushing cars/ pl
  13. Excellent clean stunning build Tony! (of what must be a relatively rare kit?) Is this 1/32? If so, I would love to have one this nice in the form of a Scalectrix or Revell slot car to race against my Chaparral! That spare tire on the dash of the actual 1:1 must have been a bear to extract if it was ever needed!
  14. Fixed the decals on the left side to match the actual car (reversed the “Ford” and “Stark-Hickey”) and added ‘427’ emblems to front fender (from Revell ‘64 Ford Thunderbolt kit, love it when they give you extra decals!).
  15. This was built from the less-than-stellar old AMT 1/25 Mustang “Funny Car” kit containing parts that don’t quite look like the actual Brannan car shown on the box: I attempted to build a Hilborn injected “match racer” version of this car (not complying with A/FX rules) and so I took a lots of liberties, particularly with the front end (solid axle with leaf springs) and omission of the radiator and belts (kind of an early pre-flipper funny car build). My goal was to try to approximate the stance shown on the box photo which I really liked. I thought about replacing the toy-like camme
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