Junkman

What do you do with the -well- exhaust? Just place it out of the open window? Oh, and where in England can one buy it?

That one is dearly missed indeed.

To Kevin from Missing Link Resin who demonstrated extraordinary service. You have made me a repeat customer, trust me on that.

Yes, I did it deliberately just to avoid anybody getting the wrong idea.

X2 Most of the decals that come with the kits are useless anyway. I mean, come on, 'Moroso', or 'Edelbrock', or sum such. How riff raff. Why don't they include real life stuff, like 'Jesus Loves You', or 'Backwood Baptist Church', or 'Groverville Soccer Club', or, a bit more nostalgic, 'Nixon Is The One' (would look ace on a 60s Caddy or Lincoln bumper).

Virgil, Virgil, Virgil... http://www.houseofkolor.com http://www.chrometechusa.com/

It would be a good idea though. Those F-O-R-D or D-O-D-G-E letters would be fairly universal in 1:25, others too. Just a set of those generic letters in the typical fonts would help solve many a hood dilemma.

Were those ex-Renwal, then reissued by Revell several times, 1:12 kits mentioned yet? They were - some Ferrari - a 300SL Gullwing - a '65 Mustang fastback What an epic waste of plastic those are.

They do indeed.

Wagons, Ho!

For me they are: 1. Errrr.... 2. Hmmm... 3. Nope. 4. Ahem... 5. Close, but... 6. Nah... 7. Why? 8. Why not? 9. If they'd just... 10. Oh bugger...

Hmmm.... I wonder whether a person's IQ is 25 times lower in 1:25... pa-dum-pum...

Hi All, Every time there is a 'what would you want to be made as a model kit' thread, I notice that quite a few people mention 'an accurate '70 Cuda'. Excuse my ignorance, but what is so 'inaccurate' in the Cuda kits that exist hitherto? What needs to be 'corrected' in order to have an accurate one?

230 lbs are 0.23552 ounces (6.62 metric grams) in 1:25. 3300 lbs are 0.2112 lbs (95.8 metric grams) in 1:25. 1 Second is 1 Second in 1:25 A car travelling at 60mph is travelling 2.4mph in 1:25

Now we're talkin'... It doesn't matter whether it would sell well. This thread is about what YOU want.

A 1972 Polara sure is a fine looking motor, which I wouldn't mind the least bit, neither as a model, nor as a real car. But I just love those hidden headlamps of the '73 'naco. I'd also buy all of the other models you listed, while we are at it.

1961 Imperial Crown Southampton (new tool) 1973 Dodge Monaco 1977 Continental Town Car 1958 Facel-Vega Excellence 1949 Saoutchik-bodied Delahaye 175 S roadster

X2 Nice car, but what is so new about it?

Will it come with a Stacey David figure?

Is he working on getting the Darwin Award?

And this dapper chap: was the first owner of the car.

That's roughly 1500 quid worth of Norscot scrapers alone.

It has very little to do with the size of the houses. It started with the diecast models produced since WWII (Corgi, Dinky, etc.) that were made to the scale of the 0 gauge railway. Those were initially intended to be toys, but they were quickly collected by adults. One thing led to the other and for the past 40 odd years the market simply exploded. Yes, 1:43 scale might have it's origin in Europe, but it is collected worldwide.

Size doesn't matter. The effort spent on making a model is the same, regardless of the size. The the only difference is the amount of raw materials per unit used, but that is only pennies in the overall calculation. And as for prices - you can buy 1:43 scale models at any price. From dirt cheap to thousands.

Red is made by the devil. Most reds are quite translucent. Hence the chances are brilliant to achieve a different shade on each and every part you paint. Apparently there is a trick to alleviate the problem: You paint the parts yellow first. I tried this, simply by using yellow primer, and it worked for me. Also, you could try painting the entire inside of the body (minus roof) flat black and see if that brings the red on the body in line with the red on the hood.