Digger
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Posts posted by Digger
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Sorry for the delay in my response. So I have to make an oil tank and fit it to the rig, then run a fourth line to the trailer? Sorry for my ignorance on this.
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I'm doing the REVELL AUTO TRAILER No 1509 , I'm going to mate it up with my Kenworth 900 rig. The question is I have 3 lines going from the rig to the trailer 2 air lines 1 electric , am I right ? The trailer has hydraulic pipes for the rams BUT where does it get the hydraulic oil from, my thinking is it has its own supply tank and pump, which is not in the kit. Can anyone help with this, and possibly a diagram so I can make them. Thank you.
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Force. Thank you so much for your reply and the link , alot to read but very educational . As blue and chrome one is cheaper I'll get that. Once again thank you .
Chris
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What's the difference between the Kenworth 900 dump truck models. I have seen a blue one with what looks like a chrome back, and a red one with a different back. Is one better than the other or are they the same? The blue one is cheaper than the red one , but I don't like the Chrome back, although this could be painted.
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Success 🙌🙌🙌😃 .The new different aerosol silver went on and no bleed through. My big thanks to all on here for your help. It goes to show that a world wide community of modelers can be so helpful to someone. Love this forum 💕
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Thanks for this info. I think the problem is the silver aerosols I have is more silver and not much of the metal flake in it. I'm going down town tomorrow and see if I can find a better paint.
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18 minutes ago, Sandboarder said:
Yeah of course you can. The idea is that the metallic flakes in the silver will block the bleed through. Any texture from the silver can be sealed and smoothed with a primer or surfacer.
There is no reason you can’t spray primer, silver, primer, colours and clear coats. On your projects
I personally only use Mr Hobby 1500 Black surfacer for everything I paint. Recently I painted a Bandai kit molded in red and pink with black primer/surfacer and then a light green paint, no bleeds.
Thanks, I paint stripped the model off so I can have a fresh start. Sprayed light coat of grey primer, and then a good coat of silver, it looked good so it was givern a coat of gloss varnish. This morning some of the green has come through over night. I think I will give it a coat of silver again on top of the varnish and see if it comes through again.😜
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14 hours ago, Bainford said:
If I was going to use silver as a barrier, that's the way I would do it. A light coat of primer to prepare the plastic for paint, then your coat of silver. At that point, you can paint your body colour over the silver, or another light coat of primer over the silver first, then paint. Depending on how smooth everything is, you may want to do some light sanding of the silver/primer before laying down the final colour.
However, if you are worried about paint build-up, you could probably get away with no primer at all. Paint your silver over the bare plastic, then your colour. Something to keep in mind; If you are doing any masking, sometimes the tape can pull the colour coat off the silver base. It might be best to test on scrap plastic first, before committing to your project. Also, be sure all coats are well cured before advancing to the next step.
...or, you can paint with acrylic, which should not experience bleeding. I'm not aware of any good hobby acrylics in a spray can, though, and some non-hobby paints labelled as acrylics can still be hot enough to promote bleeding.
Many thanks Bainford. This is the answer I was wanting, thanks also to Sandboarder, and Jollysipper for the idea in the first place. Now all I have to do is try it.
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Thanks will see if I can find some over here. Or something similar.
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Thank you all, BUT here in Cyprus we don't have model shops so everything has to be ordered on the net, preferably from EU countries, if it comes from the UK we have import duty on it as well. So I have to forget all these fancy things and try practical things. Like the first answer. Now Sandboarder you say silver under the primer, can I put a lite coat of primer first then silver then the colour?. By the way I only have aerosol cans from the local store, basic primers etc. Not set up for airbrush yet, again it's all expenses. Again thanks , sorry I didn't make it clear from the start. By the way I have paint stripped it back to bare plastic again and it now has a matt finish to the plastic, I wonder if it's took alot of the die out as Jollysipper has said?
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Thanks. I knew someone would know🤠
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I'm trying to spray the Italeri model of the Australian Western star. The green plastic one. I have now put on grey primer,one coat of gloss white paint and the green seems to bleed through, so I have now sprayed 3 coats of white primer, doing all the usual things in-between, sanding etc , but it still has a green tinge to it. Anyone else has this problem and how did you cure it. 🤬
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Thanks to everyone,and to Ace- Garageguy for the diagram, I have just found a video of a truck on its side and it the same setup as the diagram. Now I've got something to work by. Thanks to everyone 🤠.
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Thanks, so let me get this straight there's a U.joint both sides of the support , so I need to make a support and two Propshaft. The one that goes to the rear axle needs to be angled down, is that right ?
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Thanks for getting back to me. Is there a U J on both sides of the support?
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When you extend the chassis on a big rig it's only natural you have to extend the Propshaft as well, I can't help thinking that on a 1.1 rig would the Propshaft be that long without some form of support either a split prop shaft or some other form of setup. I can't help thinking it doesn't look right that long. The shaft on the kit is 5 inch long approx add another 2 inch, 7 inch seems to much , hence the question. Any help please.
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Thank you all for your welcome
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16 hours ago, Force said:
Thanks for this ,a fantastic help to me to see all this. Hope I can make it when the kit arrives. I've got Dan's site to follow as well.
16 hours ago, Force said:The Bro Wrecker also usually have the spreader lift bar for the forks for the axle lift or the wheel lift grid, I don't understand why Italeri included the extension bar and crane pulley assembly because you don't see that used often, it's the spreader lift bar you see most.
Here is the standard equipment on a Bro Wrecker of that era.
Here is a picture of one of the heavy wreckers in my hometown,, the wrecker type is called Bro Starke and the truck it's built on is a Scania R model.
KHere is a picture of one of the heavy wreckers in my hometown,, the wrecker type is called Bro Starke and the truck it's built on is a Scania R model.
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I want to reply to my thread. And I inadvertently pressed the quote button, how do I get rid of the quote part. So I can just do a reply.
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Thanks , yes I get your point. That is what Dan is doing. Both in the US and UK the underlift or stinger has an axal lift , and that is what I wanted to do. Thank you for the diagram and the pic of your model it is very good. I'm just getting back into modeling again after a number years, and need a challenge, that is why I would like to do it, not strait out of the box. Thanks again. Chris
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Thank you all once again for all your help. I have found on U Tube a model builder called DANSMODELWORX he has got the Italeri wrecker and done a very good conversion on it. Lengthened the chassis and also lengthened the body and done a lot of work on the boom itself which is wrong in the kit. Very well worth finding and watching. Not just this kit but cars as well. I shall now get this kit and do his conversion but I may put a Kenworth cab on it.. If you watch it let me know your thoughts on doing this.
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Thank you so much for this information,very informative. Finding the parts will be the main problem, the only ones I've seen so far are the Italeri ones. Another idea, I have a supply of plastic sheet left over from another project, now has anyone got an unmade Revell wrecker and would they be willing to trace round the parts I need for the body so I can scratch build one. If I'm allowed on here to send my email address in a PM I can do that .all I would need for size reference is a 1 inch square on it. So I can get the measurements. With my old equipment I like to work in feet and inches preferred,if not metric. Chris
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19 hours ago, GLMFAA1 said:
I wonder if it would be easier for you to obtain an Italeri wrecker kit. Thay pumped out a lot of different cabs on the same wrecker body.
If you want an old version, you might find Phil Jensen's Holmes wrecker directions.
greg
First of all ,thank you all for your help and input. Greg ,( Phil Jensen Holmes wrecker directions ) ? Where do I find this as I've not heard of him. I decided to not go with the Italeri kit but wait to see if a wrecker boom and body,as in the Revell kit turns up on ebay, or somewhere else, as I want to do the big heavy telescopic rig. Once again thanks .
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I would like to make the Kenworth W900 wrecker that was made by Revell. But the price is out of my reach, I live in Cyprus. I have a kit of a Kenworth 900 truck . My question is. Is there any parts available for me to make a wrecker, or can I scratch build the parts, and does the chassis have to be modified ,any help appreciated.
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Thank you for your reply, I'll have to think which system to use, thanks for making it a bit clearer.