dragmodeler
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Posts posted by dragmodeler
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Very well done so far. Will make a terrific build! Whos car will you be replicating? I will be watching this one!
There is one run by Dan Horan, Jr in Calif. and maybe one other. The other was called Nitro Pony and was in the midwest, but he sold the car a couple of years ago so I am not sure about the second.
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It really takes seeing this body in person to appreciate the work that has gone into it to get it this far. By the way, the Ford Cammer would be the logical choice for this one!
I am going with the cammer. I worked on it this weekend and it is looks like it should be a good fit. I will have pics soon of the chassis with the cammer.
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I wanted to add a picture of my chassis as well. I started with a Revell "current" funny car chassis and have rebuilt all but the driver's compartment.
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I finally have some time to post! Several of us in the Buckeye Scale Auto Club (BSAC) spent most of March and April doing events. There was one stretch we did 4 events in 3 successive weekends. And I actually found time to work in between. I am now back to the workbench and into my latest project.
I caught the nostalga funny car bug a couple of years ago and started this project. It sat on my shelf for quite a while and I have now decided it is time to finish it. The body is made out of 2 Revell Mustang bodies.
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That is really cool. I remember the car in "the day" and it was one of my favorites. God luck with finishing your build!!
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The wheels are machined aluminum pieces from a company called Pro Track primarily for slot car use. They are readily available from numerous sellers on Ebay.
Thanks a bunch. I just ordered a set on e-bay.
Good luck with your project. Mark
Mark
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Hey, That hood stripe decal is a real pain to get to lay flat, did you paint yours? Everyone I've talked to complains about it. If you didn't paint it, how did you do it? A firehose shootin' setting solution? A voodoo magic ritual? Pelvic gyrations of the Elvis kind?
I did use the kit decal plus about a gallon of Micor Sol and Micro Set (the drag race modeler's best friend). Takes time and a lot of patience, but I got it to pretty much lay down. there is a small tear in the right front and a really small wrinkle in left front that aren't really too bad. But the bottom line is it CAN be done, just don't be in a hurry. Mark
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Maybe I missed it, but where did you get the front wells from, or did you make them yourself? They will look great on that cool pro mod.
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Really nice looking Diorama. Our club (Buckeye Scale Auto Club) has a drag strip diorama we update and add to every year. I can't imagine doing a new one every year. BTW the cars look great too. Looks like a club theme build.
Mark Harmon, Treasurer
Buckeye Scale Auto Club (Columbus, Ohio)
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Kind of odd that you would pick a funny car to do as a slammer... the one type of car where the chassis and engine detail is the whole ballgame!
This is my of trying to play the same game a little differently. A chassis and full engine detail don't always make a great build.
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Dude, that is a somkin' paint job on that car! Cool idea doing a slammer funny car. You should put up a painting tutorial for those of us that are "paint challenged". Nice work!
Thanks for the kind words. I got tired of detailing the motors in drag cars and needed more "immediate gratification" when building. Also, I knew the Polar Lights Mustang kit can be very challenging.
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I didn't realize there was a fade on the Fast Eddie's Cougar. Doesn't look like it in the pictures (probably due to the light) do you have a picture that shows the fade a little better. I am thinking of building this car as well and didn't realize this would be a fade paint project. Thanks
BTW If you aren't the best painter in your club, I would really like to see the paint by the best painter!
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Nice build.
What paint did you use. What color is that.
Does anyone else in your club paint as well as you do?
Are those the kit decals?
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so, do you have a chassis shot?
The Chassis shot was lost with the engine and interior pictures. Thats the problem with doing a slammer. Those shots get lost on the "cutting room floor."
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These are the only pics I have.
No engine photos because it is a slammer. No interior and no engine.
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All the decals were on the kit sheet except for the tires. No aftermarket or old decal box for me on this one.
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I have been a member of the forum for quite a while and haven't posted forever. I am currently the treasurer of the Buckeye Scale Auto Club in Columbus, Ohio. I have been trying to get back to building.
I just finished this Blue Max Funny Car.
The kit is the Polar Lights Blue Max Mustang in Testor's Blue pearl and the kit decals.
Built this one over the weekend so it is a slammer with no engine or interior detail.
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I build a lot of drag cars. This is exceptionally nice! I was just wondering what you used for the body tin work.
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I know I am more than a little late to the "table" with this one, but is there anywhere on line I can get HOUSE of KOLOR paint. The hobby shops in town are all sold out and can't get any more. Any suggestions?
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ive gotta go with model.
doesnt look right to me
It could be the picture, but the side panel behind the door looks solid, no removable fender skirt. Great Model!
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That's how I do it too, Harry
Next on my agenda is a 69 Camaro Halo vinyl top.
I was always planning to try to do one with masking tape, but was afraid the tape would let go after a few years on the model. I tried the paint and styrene method once and haven't considered the other way since. I have seen some convincing tape tops and have a friend that did one ten or so years ago and it is still holding up..........to each his own.
I tried the masking tape route and it really didn't work out. I did a rear half vinyl top with a chrome (like the 56 Crown Victoria) bar across the door. After just a week or so the masking tape lifted in various spots and looked like there were bubbles underneath. So today I tried the paint but with a variation. I primed it from a distance, used the faux fabrix carpet spray from Scale Motorsport from a distance for texture. I then primed in white from a distance and airbrushed the final color over all the coats. To me, it looks great.
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looks to be a diecast. Model. Taillights may give it away.....
Looks like a model to me. The exhaust tips give it away for me.
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Great suggestion on the Krylon. I assume it is ok over white lacquer (i.e. won't yellow). Is it cool enough over decals?
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Some helpful hints here.
If you do continue to use Testors enamels, invest in a food dehydrator to dry models in faster. I did, & though I do love the newer Tamiya & Testors lacquers, I still use Testors enamels in some cases, simply because I like some of the colors available in them.
Now, on spraying clear, here's a little hint for you.
When spraying the final color coat of Testors enamel, have a warm can of their enamel clear at the ready. As soon as the final color coat is on, spray a coat of clear over it. This works well in reducing & leveling out orange peel. Then set the body aside to dry/gas out for a week or longer, (less if you use a dehydrator of course). I've clear coated bodies after 36 hours using the dehydrator with no problems. It also helps lacquer paint jobs to cure faster.
Do NOT do the above trick on a white painted body or a light blue one, as enamel clear has a slight yellow tint that will show up on the white over time, & can shift the shade & hue of light blue colors.
You can do the same trick with clear lacquer over a lacquer paint job to reduce orange peel as well.
If you do switch to a hobby lacquer, be forewarned that Tamiya's clear must be applied immediately over their colors after painting, or you need to wait at least a month for the color coats to gas out, (or again use a dehydrstor to speed up the process). If you don't do this, you run the risk of the clear crazing.cracking over the color coats. IIRC, even Tamiya's website mentions this. You may or may not have the same problem with Testors color lacquers & their clears. As I use the dehydrator on all my panit jobs now I can't say for sure if Testors does like Tamiya does.
Finally, go by Hobby Lobby, Michaels, etc, & get a can of Krylon Crystal Clear clear coat. It's a polyurethane, is safe over hobby lacquers & enamels, & won't yellow. Use this as your final clear coat.
Buckeye Scale Auto
in Contests and Shows
Posted
Tom, it is right next to the 71 at the Morse Road/Sinclair off ramp. It is about 6 stories. From your area should be about 3 hours I am thinking.
Look forward to seeing you there.
Mark Harmon