rossfox

So, I have been using Tamiya Acrylic Paint now for the last year, and I keep having the same problem with several of the colors. Maybe all of them, but for sure the ones I have used. The paint just never hardens. I paint the body, put it in the dydrator for several hours sometimes, sometimes I don't use the dehydrator, wait a couple of weeks, and it still is somewhat soft. I laid my Corvette hood, painted over month ago, clearcoated two weeks ago, on a piece of sponge. It laid there for about 30 minutes. Picked it up and you can see the imprint of the sponge on the hood. What give please???

So, I had some bad places in the paint of my model using Tamiya acrylic red. It had been painted about 3 weeks with at least 4 coats. Some places were scratched bad, some places had paint chipped a little, and some places were dull. So, I was just wanting to be done with this body, and I dabbed a little bit of paint in the chipped in places, dabbed a little bit in the scratches, and a few other bad places. I put it in the dehydrator just to speed up the curing process a little so that I could move on. I usually set the dehydrator at 113 degrees, but for some reason it was at 156 degrees. I found it a couple of hours later and immediately turned the dehydrator off. I figured the body was be melted or warped. Lo and behold the body was fine, and all of the places where the paint had been bad were now healed so to speak. They looked great. I guess I got lucky, but I will remember this for sure and might try it again.

10-4 on all!

Thanks Pete. I will keep trying with BMF to get better.

Wow Steven, those models are unreal so nice. Ok on the BMF, I will try to get better with it.. I have watched a lot of video and feel kinda like I know what to do. I have only built 4 cars so far and it is a learning experience for sure. Just using the airbrush has been a challenge. Thanks for the info.

Okay on all Tony. I had used Tamiya masking, but have found that when I remove it, the paint underneath is scored. So I have gotten afraid to put any kind of masking over paint. At least Tamiya Acrylics. But I will try BMF as masking tape. Someone mentioned Parafilm, but didn't say which type of Parafilm, as there are several types.

Very gorgeous models. So that is BMF?? Wow. Mine BMF is probably nearly 2 years old. Is that why it is not sticking well???

Will foil work on very small parts like door handles? I don't have much hardly experience with BMF except around windows and didn't do very well with that. I will certainly try that as Molotow has been a hard go with me. I have gotten it on the paint in many places and ruined a good to me paint job. So foil will stick and work on very small pieces then??

I used a super small eyelash brush to put Molotow chrome on the door handles. Needless to say, I slipped and got it on the Tamiya acrylic. So, how do you put Molotow on small parts, with what and how. And how do you get the Molotow off. I did dampen a Q Tip with acohol and that was a disaster. Any suggestions.

I used my Sony pocket camera to take the picture.

So here is a picture of my 57 Corvette showing the side view. Thanks for all of the advice. I will use it for sure.

Thanks Peteski. I didn't know about screen capture. I do now. I used the Snipping Tool and saved as a JPG. I will send a picture of my Corvette after lunch.

Dave G. I didn't know that about Tamiya thinner X 20 versus regular laquer thinner to thin Tamiya acrylics. I will give that a try on pieces of plastic. Getting my nicely painted body messed up by Tamiya masking tape is not what I was looking for. Thanks again.

So another question pertaining to my original post. I have not included a picture, as I cannot get the file to convert from pdf to one accepted here, but you know what I am talking about with the Corvette. So my 57 Corvette is painted and I am okay with it. I need to add the chrome stripping in the area where the white meets the red. The ridge is very narrow. Near the front fender well it goes down to maybe 1/64 inch narrow, and gets slightly wider as it goes toward the rear of the car. I am trying to figure should I try the Molotow pen I have, or Bare Metal Chrome Foil. I am afraid that I will slip with the Molotow pen and get chrome on the paint. With the bare metal foil, because the ridge is so narrow and very shallow, I wonder if I won't botch that up trying to trim it with an Exacto knife. I don't want to mask the paint because of my troubles in the past with tape leaving marks in the paint. Any suggestions? Also can Tamiya Clearcoat be used over Molotow, if I go that route?

Well okay, so I had a breakthru. I took my body, the one with the masking tape marks in the paint, and I put it in the hydrator again for 6 hours at 122 degrees. Took it out and had no idea, but the tape marks are completely gone. Luck??? Just don't know.