rossfox

So, I had some bad places in the paint of my model using Tamiya acrylic red. It had been painted about 3 weeks with at least 4 coats. Some places were scratched bad, some places had paint chipped a little, and some places were dull. So, I was just wanting to be done with this body, and I dabbed a little bit of paint in the chipped in places, dabbed a little bit in the scratches, and a few other bad places. I put it in the dehydrator just to speed up the curing process a little so that I could move on. I usually set the dehydrator at 113 degrees, but for some reason it was at 156 degrees. I found it a couple of hours later and immediately turned the dehydrator off. I figured the body was be melted or warped. Lo and behold the body was fine, and all of the places where the paint had been bad were now healed so to speak. They looked great. I guess I got lucky, but I will remember this for sure and might try it again.

10-4 on all!

Thanks Pete. I will keep trying with BMF to get better.

Wow Steven, those models are unreal so nice. Ok on the BMF, I will try to get better with it.. I have watched a lot of video and feel kinda like I know what to do. I have only built 4 cars so far and it is a learning experience for sure. Just using the airbrush has been a challenge. Thanks for the info.

Okay on all Tony. I had used Tamiya masking, but have found that when I remove it, the paint underneath is scored. So I have gotten afraid to put any kind of masking over paint. At least Tamiya Acrylics. But I will try BMF as masking tape. Someone mentioned Parafilm, but didn't say which type of Parafilm, as there are several types.

Very gorgeous models. So that is BMF?? Wow. Mine BMF is probably nearly 2 years old. Is that why it is not sticking well???

Will foil work on very small parts like door handles? I don't have much hardly experience with BMF except around windows and didn't do very well with that. I will certainly try that as Molotow has been a hard go with me. I have gotten it on the paint in many places and ruined a good to me paint job. So foil will stick and work on very small pieces then??

I used a super small eyelash brush to put Molotow chrome on the door handles. Needless to say, I slipped and got it on the Tamiya acrylic. So, how do you put Molotow on small parts, with what and how. And how do you get the Molotow off. I did dampen a Q Tip with acohol and that was a disaster. Any suggestions.

I used my Sony pocket camera to take the picture.

So here is a picture of my 57 Corvette showing the side view. Thanks for all of the advice. I will use it for sure.

Thanks Peteski. I didn't know about screen capture. I do now. I used the Snipping Tool and saved as a JPG. I will send a picture of my Corvette after lunch.

Dave G. I didn't know that about Tamiya thinner X 20 versus regular laquer thinner to thin Tamiya acrylics. I will give that a try on pieces of plastic. Getting my nicely painted body messed up by Tamiya masking tape is not what I was looking for. Thanks again.

So another question pertaining to my original post. I have not included a picture, as I cannot get the file to convert from pdf to one accepted here, but you know what I am talking about with the Corvette. So my 57 Corvette is painted and I am okay with it. I need to add the chrome stripping in the area where the white meets the red. The ridge is very narrow. Near the front fender well it goes down to maybe 1/64 inch narrow, and gets slightly wider as it goes toward the rear of the car. I am trying to figure should I try the Molotow pen I have, or Bare Metal Chrome Foil. I am afraid that I will slip with the Molotow pen and get chrome on the paint. With the bare metal foil, because the ridge is so narrow and very shallow, I wonder if I won't botch that up trying to trim it with an Exacto knife. I don't want to mask the paint because of my troubles in the past with tape leaving marks in the paint. Any suggestions? Also can Tamiya Clearcoat be used over Molotow, if I go that route?

Well okay, so I had a breakthru. I took my body, the one with the masking tape marks in the paint, and I put it in the hydrator again for 6 hours at 122 degrees. Took it out and had no idea, but the tape marks are completely gone. Luck??? Just don't know.

Lot of good replies and looking for more.

So, I admit, I am beaten by this two tone paint. I painted half of the car with Tamiya acrylics. Waited a week for the paint to cure. Put Tamiya masking tape carefully on the new paint in order to paint the other part. Painted other part, waited 40 minutes and pulled the masking tape off very carefully from the previous painted part. Previous paint had tape marks all in the paint. Sanded all of that off, and cured the model in Hydrator for 12 hours. Tried again, and even putting the Tamiya masking tape down on a clean surface and pulled it off several times to reduce the stickyness. Painted second part again and removed the masking tape from previous paint in 15 minutes. Paint had tape marks all in the paint again. Any suggestions.

Thanks all. So looks like clear and then add chrome pieces like bumpers, etc. Got it.

I will be getting ready to clear coat my Corvette soon. Should I wait to get all of the chrome pieces on first, or do just the body first with no chrome pieces on it.

Looks great to me!

Hello all. I have a question. How many use an airbrush to just touch up places in the paint on a model, but not repaint an whole area? I have some areas where there was overspray and using a brush hasn't worked well for me. I was thinking of getting a small nozzles airbrush, and trying to just focus on the small area that has overspray or a place I have botched up. Any suggestions???

Thanks everyone for the answers so far. I will look at the Pink Primer. Wonder if Hobby Town has it??

I have used Tamiya fine gray primer before, and now I will be painting an old Corvette a bright red. Should I use a white primer instead of the gray, or does it make a difference. I do like the gray primer.

Old Buckaroo and espo. Good answer and what I think would be the best way.

So, I am getting my new model body ready to paint. I will be doing the interior in black. So, when do you guys paint the headliner and the inside widow pillars, and the windshield and back glass pillars, as they should be black to match the headliner. Watching YouTube videos, I always see everyone just painting the exterior of the body and nothing is done to the interior. And do you airbrush or brush paint it. And if airbrushing, how would one go about masking, as I would think I would not want black paint to come out and get on the exterior.

Thanks again. I ordered the 560 and will get it tomorrow.