rossfox

Thanks everyone for the answers so far. I will look at the Pink Primer. Wonder if Hobby Town has it??

I have used Tamiya fine gray primer before, and now I will be painting an old Corvette a bright red. Should I use a white primer instead of the gray, or does it make a difference. I do like the gray primer.

Old Buckaroo and espo. Good answer and what I think would be the best way.

So, I am getting my new model body ready to paint. I will be doing the interior in black. So, when do you guys paint the headliner and the inside widow pillars, and the windshield and back glass pillars, as they should be black to match the headliner. Watching YouTube videos, I always see everyone just painting the exterior of the body and nothing is done to the interior. And do you airbrush or brush paint it. And if airbrushing, how would one go about masking, as I would think I would not want black paint to come out and get on the exterior.

Thanks again. I ordered the 560 and will get it tomorrow.

Great information guys. Everything said makes sense and is stuff I was not thinking about. The Pontiac Bonneville is beautiful. Had a friend in 1969 that had one just like that, but if I remember it was more blue. I see Microscale Micro Krystal Klear and also Formula 560 Canopy glue mentioned. Either one??? Any plus or minus for either. Or should I get both?

So, after I get my car body painted and looking good - at least good to me - what glue and methods do you use to attach chrome pieces to the painted surface without messing it up. I was putting a chrome piece on the back part of the trunk of my 56 Ford, and my hand slipped and the glue got on the trunk lid. Now that doesn't look good. Is there a glue that it totally transparent and doesn't mess the paint up? I tried LockTite Super Glue Gel and I do like it, except if you slip up and get it on something it should not be on it is bad. Also, when do you paint the headliner of your model? I watch videos of guys painting the bodies and the overspray is going into the interior and covering the headliner and everything else. Do you paint the interior first then mask the interior off from the inside and then paint the outside???

Good point. Wonder where there is a big selection of Tamiya Lacquers?

Good point on not putting it into the dehydrator too soon.

I was looking at the Tamiya Lacquer Paints and maybe considering switching over to them instead of Tamiya Acrylics. I did build a car last year, and used Tamiya Acrylics and seemed to have the same problem as now, with the paint seeming to be soft and easily marred one way or the other. I read some good reviews on Tamiya Lacquer Paint and it seems like they do everything the acrylics do, but better?????????

I think it with the Tamiya thinner and I was at 50/50 with airbrush. It sprayed on really nice. So, if it might take months to fully cure, sounds like not a good paint to work with????????????????????

So, I was wondering how many models most guys are working on at the same time. I have only been working on one. Maybe I should start another kit while waiting for the paint to dry on this body. Speaking of paint. I cannot understand what is happening with my Tamiya acrylic that I painted my 56 Ford with. It was Tamiya blue acrylic. So, I painted it two weeks ago. Put it in the dehydrator for 3 separate times at 6 hours each. Let it sit on the table for days. Yesterday I laid it roof down on a microfiber cloth. When I picked it up, the roof had the imprint of the microfiber cloth. Just like the paint is very soft. I know now that I can put it back in the dehydrator for a few hours and it will go back smooth again. ??????????? And finally someone suggested that I can contact the kit manufacturer and maybe get replacement windshields front and back for my 56. I did't know that was possible.

Well, I tried sanding and polishing to no avail. Looks like I put the front and back glass in with an axe. I am learning for sure. Okay on the Testors Clear Parts Glue. I will get some. Maybe hire an experienced modeler to install them for me. Maybe I should take up knitting!

Well, I have learned my lesson about using super glue for windshields. I had the windshield held with a sticky pad and was lowering it into the car where I had put a small amount of super glue to hold the windshield. Needless to say the windshield came off and fell and got a spot of super glue on the it. So, how do I get the windshield back clear again? Also, what is the best transparent glue to use for putting in windshields?

Thanks for all of the advice. Good advice it is. So, I left the Tamiya tape on for a day - probably too long. I did find out that I put the body back into the dehydrator for 6 hours at 122 degrees and the aligator effect is now gone away. So, I am back okay at this point. I have got to figure out how to handle these painted bodies without messing them up. I hate cotton gloves and I can't work with them. Latex the same way. I guess I will just have to constantly wash my hands to keep the oils off of the bodies, unless someone knows another trick.

Okay, so I painted my 56 Ford Victoria with Tamiya acrylic blue paint on the bottom half of the body - a two tone that will be with white on the upper portion. It looked good. So I put it in the hydrator for 6 hours. Then I waited about 4 days before I handled it. So I decided to mask (Tamiya masking tape) over that Tamiya blue paint to do some more painting on other parts of the body. When I pulled the mask off the paint underneath is very rough now and noticeable. My question - did I not wait long enough for the Tamiya blue acrylic to harden?? I am almost afraid to do anything else to the car body, as I wonder if the blue is just very fragile and touching it will cause more damage.

Good information. I got some big soft sponges to lay the body on to do some more work on it. I have a hard time trying to wear cotton gloves to handle the model, even just on my left hand, so I gave that up. I will just keep my hands clean and if I smudge it up, then I will try to polish it out.

Okay on the glove. I think I will do that. Yes, it is Bare Metal Foil - chrome.

Thanks for the advice!

So, I have painted my 56 Victoria Blue and White and put it in the hydrator for several hours. I still need to handle it quite a bit to install the bumpers, metallic foil for the chrome, install the cabin into the body and etc. So, I need to handle the body quite a bit. Should I wear cotton gloves, latex gloves, no gloves at all?? Go ahead and clear coat it now to protect the paint??? I am going to use the chrome metallic foil paper for the chrome. According to the info on the package it says not to install it over slick surfaces. So would not clear coating cause the metallic foil to have a hard time sticking. I love building these cars, and even though I am just getting started in this hobby, I know I will do it for many years, providing I don't mess up. I raced slot cars until last month and the track closed down. No other tracks are close by, so this is now my main hobby along with Ham Radio. Any suggestions as to how to protect my new paint job?

On the fender and also where the windshield meets the body.

I will do that tomorrow for sure.

So, I am new to airbrushing and it is really beating me like a drum. I take 2 steps foward and 1 7/8 steps back. So I am doing my 56 Ford Victoria two tone - white and blue. I thought I had done a good job on masking, but there are a couple of small spots where the blue came back into the white. And it shows. The white is Createx Wicked White and the Blue is Tamiya X4 blue. So the Tamiya is a different solvent than the Createx. Createx is water??? and Tamiya is kinda like alcohol??? I am at a loss what to do. Also, why is it that I have such an incredible hard time trying to airbrush white? In this case Createx Wicked White. I thinned it to close to milk, using .050 nozzle, and air pressure at 22 psi. ???? Thanks all.

Thanks everyone. I am working now on a 56 Ford Victoria kit. I am just about ready to paint the body. I am a fair painter as I have been into slot cars for many years. Of course on slot cars we paint the inside of the lexan clear body, because of the beating they take. And realism is not that important, as it is impossible to make it realistic with those slot car bodies. I will post pictures when I get the 56 finished. Thanks all!

Thanks PappyD340