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About gman

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    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 07/04/1967

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  • Scale I Build
    1/24 1/25

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  • Location
    Vancouver BC
  • Full Name
    Greg Peters

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  1. Wow. The paintwork is outstanding. Nice job. What did you use for paint? Never mind, watched your build video. That laid down nicely
  2. gman

    MBG GT

    As a former MGB owner, I am delighted to see your build. The wheels didn't twig for me (even though I have a set tucked away for a build), but now that I see them in context, I guess they are kind of evocative of the MG Rostyles.
  3. If building up the wheel with plastic to friction fit into the tire isn't the desired option, a slow-setting epoxy might do the trick. Epoxy should be pretty inert after setting.
  4. A Deuce that turned out greater than the sum of it's parts. Very nice.
  5. Much of determining how a certain colour is going to look over a particular base coat will depend on the thickness of the paint coats, and the number of paint coats in total. Most metallic and pearl paints are translucent, so if you apply a couple of thin coats the base coat will have a bigger impact on the final colour than the same paint will with several coats. If you need a large difference in colour, it may be best to decant and mix according to your needs- if you go this route, mix up more than you think you will need, should you find the project will need more coats, or allow for t
  6. I find wiping the nozzle before putting the cap back on, and then keeping the superglue in the fridge usually keeps the bottle usable- the worst I have had happen this way is having to run a tooth pick down the bore of the nozzle for very slight clogs. With the last few bottles of Zap A Gap I've purchased, I've been able to get pretty much every last drop out of the bottle.
  7. It will depend on what kind of paint you applied it over top of- I use alcohol, but that doesn't work on fresh paint (especially lacquers and acrylics). Goo Gone may be a good option.
  8. Tamiya makes an aqueous acrylic clear, and if you are looking to clear coat over Tamiya's aqueous acrylic red shortly after initial cure, that will be the one you want to use. You may be able to use other types of clear coat overtop of aqueous acrylic once it has completely cured, as they are fairly inert (unlikely to react with top coats) once the paint has fully cured.
  9. Good to hear. I imagine I'll track down a copy or two of the latest issue. As mentioned, it is a parts gold mine, and a good looking vehicle in its own right.
  10. I had 80's and 90's reissues of this kit- as mentioned, it is overall pretty good for its age. Oddly, the 80's release I had was full of flash, and had some seams and voids in the body that required fixing- neither problem was as bad as the later version of the kit. I would be interested in hearing how the mold has held up in the latest release.
  11. That is looking really good. Contrasting roof insert and running boards would look good. Some flat white headers with heat discoloration and a dark wash (to look like it was driven hard) would set the engine off nicely.
  12. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/profile/504-kris-morgan/ ^^ you could try sending him a private message
  13. gman

    65 Comet

    Very sinister, and your paint job really sets it off. Tell me more about your wheels.
  14. I remember prepping the BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH out of the Revell Russ Davis Ford Thunderbolt kit shortly after it was released (molded in bright orange styrene). I was building it as a plain Jane Thunderbolt, and laid down some Duplicolor Wimbledon white. Much to my surprise, as the colour coats were gassing out, I watched the entire body start to turn a nice coral colour...not what I was shooting for 🥵 That body was relegated to the "box of shame," with valuable lessons learned regarding barrier coats for molded-in-colour bodies.
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