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gman

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About gman

  • Birthday 07/04/1967

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    Greg Peters

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MCM Ohana

MCM Ohana (6/6)

  1. I am really liking that paint job, along with the combo for the interior colour. Nice work so far.
  2. LP ;fe \ \ ppppppppppppppp Edit- disregard. Cat on keyboard
  3. Love your '32. Great job bringing it across home plate.
  4. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/mpc-1-0746-scavenger--1014935 I built a previous version of that kit back when it was a new release- at least in my kit, the hood sat right when flipped up, but all of the MPC flip front kits from the era ('57 chevy, '57 Corvette, Datsun and Ford pickups) had fiddly hinges that had to be installed right for the hood to sit properly...I built them all. IIRC, the Datsun, Chevy and Ford all had the same generic frame assembly. The hinges had oversized holes that locate to pins on the front of the frame and had a fair margin of error, but if installed correctly the hood would sit properly at the cowl. If there is flash on your hinges, you could use that to your advantage for a more precise fit.
  5. I do believe you're right...there is a detail in the 3 window wheel well stamping just above the frame rail (usually hidden behind the rear wheel) that I hadn't noticed before. On 5 windows and roadsters, the wheel well is more visible when built as a hi-boy, and the Revell flat wheel well in the kit doesn't quite look right. Now that my curiosity has been piqued, I need to see what the same part looks like on a real steel tudor sedan also. I hear what you are saying about the non-OEM hemi. The next time I work on one of Revell's 3 window deuces I will try to incorporate that to get that detail right. We all know it's plastic, but the period I usually shoot for with a build is before fiberglass replica bodies existed, and it is satisfying to give the model a "real steel" look by sneaking in extra detail that isn't in the box. Your build is certainly looking the part.
  6. If there is a '32 expert that can correct me, I'm all ears. The '32 5 window and and roadster had wheel wells like in your attached image. I believe 3 windows and sedans actually had flat wheel wells (more like what is represented in Revell's kits). I started mastering a pair years ago for the roadster with the intention of casting multiples in resin, but the work was sidelined by work of the paid variety.
  7. Try using one of those suction mount bench vises- you can insert a round toothpick into the driveshaft end of the transmission and secure the other end in the vise to hold the engine. That leaves two hands for doing the wiring and other detailing.
  8. All of those components look very promising- I'll look forward to watching your build.
  9. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/flathead-ford-v8-engine-colors.392087/
  10. If you want a flathead V8 in a '29 (to represent a hot rodded AV8), you are free to choose whichever early flathead color you like. The flathead V8 made its debut in '32 and it would have been an inline 4 installed in the Model A originally by ol' Henry Ford. Early flathead V8s were various shades of green, with later ones red. https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/engine/historic-engines-the-fabulous-ford-flathead/ I'd probably narrow down which generation your chosen flathead represents and paint it a color appropriate to its approximate model year...or go custom on the engine paint. Flatheads can be identified by the type of distributor, shape of the heads and location of the water inlets as these varied over the different generations between 1932 and 1953 model years.
  11. As a lover of Fat Fendered early Fords, you have done that kit justice. You'll never lose one that color in a parking lot- looks great.
  12. I would start with some Evergreen styrene square rod in a size that looks right. Break the junction blocks down into their simplest shapes, and bond pieces together with liquid glue (something like Tenax 7R) to get the "T" shapes you want. Gently sand them on a flat surface like a Flexi File when the glue has fully cured, then drill them for your brake lines. You can use your favourite brass metalizer type paint to get the right colour and sheen. https://evergreenscalemodels.com/collections/14-white-polystrene-strips/products/131-030-x-030 (random size square strip) https://www.hobbyworks.com/cproduct/17500%2Fstyrene-tack-it-ii-adhesive-(formerly-tenax-7r)-plastic-welder https://flex-i-file.com/en-ca/products/525-flex-pad-intro-set https://www.sunwardhobbies.ca/alclad-ii-alc-109-polished-brass/?absrc=Google&abid=&abcampid=17854858780&gclid=CjwKCAiA1MCrBhAoEiwAC2d64YnKgeDDkAlnPWuM3oujK4IYiQ26Dy6-1Tc9bDFlG4e9YGH2rnjLEhoC_j8QAvD_BwE&gad_source=1 This will be far easier to work with than real brass, and allow you to make more complex shapes without having to machine small pieces of metal. Tenax (now has a new name) holds well, dries fast, and will allow the styrene to be sanded when fully dry without showing seams.
  13. My grandfather owned one of those back in the 'teens. Yours is a very tidy build- great job.
  14. About the only word I can conjure for this build is "impressive." Beautiful job.
  15. I wasn't referring to your work when I said "acceptable." That green looks great. I do not doubt your credentials, and I do admire your work and your posts, do appreciate what you have to say. I shot mine with a Duplicolor metallic brown over black primer, and my finish is what I was referring to as acceptable (as opposed to optimum). If my finish turned out like the hood on yours, I would have wrapped up the build at that point rather than shelving it. When I get around to it, mine will need additional colour coats and some paint correction. The statement I was making in my initial post in this thread is that there was likely still too much solvent in OP's primer which was trapped under the Testors and Tamiya he shot over top of it. Intention wise, I was trying to help the OP but I'll refrain from further posts in this thread as my intent isn't to argue with anyone.
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