gman
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Posts posted by gman
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On 8/18/2024 at 10:42 PM, CA Whitecloud said:
So I tried to freehand the side trim around the lights. I made a fine mess of one. How would I touch hat up if I used a rattle can for top coat?
Is that Molotow? If not, what paint did you use? It might be a plan to try cleaning up the excess chrome paint with some mild thinner or 99% isopropyl alcohol on a fine paintbrush rather than put more orange down. You could also try some Novus plastic polish on a fine tipped hobby swab.
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On 8/11/2024 at 11:10 PM, CA Whitecloud said:
A lot of folks seem to dig the color. That's always nice to hear. One of those "not what I intended", but works good colors.
It does work very well on your Torino. It suits the lines of the car- a "day 2" car with an upgraded custom paint job.
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Is the paint coming off of high spots and edges/seams on the body, or is it coming off in sheets where you are sanding?
If it is coming off on high spots, edges and seams, you could be sanding through the colour coats. If it is coming off in sheets, there may not be enough bond between the primer and the colour coat.
Ideally you would have good mechanical/chemical adhesion between primer and plastic, and between primer and colour coats. You'd lightly smooth any dust or fuzz out of the colour coats and then lay on enough clear coats to provide a layer you can then wet sand and polish. With that said, you have to go light with the wet sanding and polishing so as not to cut through clear coats into colour coats, and colour coats into primer.
Are you using primer, colour and clear that is all Tamyia lacquer?
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She's pretty. Heck, they all are- that is a great looking crop of '37's.
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That is a very sharp build- your colour choices are great, paint job looks excellent. Nice work!
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I am not surprised your model received that kind of positive attention at the show- your meticulous building style and your ability to turn each individual part into a model in and of itself is amazing. Combine that with the overall scale realism you achieve, and they just had to recognize your work. Beautiful build, and I am glad it got the attention it deserves. I am looking forward to your next creation.
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I believe Model Car Garage did the photoetched grills for Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland (stock height or chopped '32 Ford style), who then included them with their resin grill surrounds. I don't believe they did a stock-style Model A grill.
R&MoM's headers should work:
https://public.fotki.com/IceMan555/resin-archives/replicas-miniatures/all/41-470808281128.html
Bob's photoetch and Norm's resin parts are both first rate.
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6 hours ago, StokeModels said:
Thanks to everyone for the great comments - much appreciated!
The red is Tamiya Dull Red with Mr Color GX100 gloss clear over top.
Thank you- I am going to have to try that.
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Phenomenal build. I love every single part of it. Tell me about who makes that shade of red.
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I believe it is supposed to be a generic MOPAR small block, simulating a 340.
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Alclad II has a few colours that may be close.
https://alclad2.com/finishes/regular/
You might get pretty close mixing these two, or overcoating one with the other:
https://alclad2.com/finishes/regular/alc-113-jet-exhaust/
https://alclad2.com/finishes/regular/alc-123-exhaust-manifold/
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Tamiya Racing White is closer to what you see in this example.
If you have an airbrush and want to experiment, you can buy the bottled LP series Tamiya Lacquers (White, Racing White) and mix them together to tone down the brightness of the white and incorporate some of the ivory shades for a final colour more in between the two.
Vintage reference paint chips can change colour over time, and lighting/camera will skew the colour of photographed subjects.
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/tamiya-color-lacquer-10ml/lacquer-lp-2-white/10ml-bottle/
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/tamiya-color-lacquer-10ml/lacquer-lp-39-racing-white/10ml-bottle/
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Wow- your candy red paint job really pops on the '57. Excellent job, it looks great.
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12 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
...which is the reason for using a tool with a ground, hooked tip that cuts like the Tamiya engravers (which you can make yourself with a grinder) by removing a "curl" of material on the backstroke, deepening the groove without displacing material to either side.
I have a few of the Bare Metal scribers. One with quite a bit of wear on it plus a brand new one.
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/bare-metal-foil-bmf003-panel-scriber--321399
I haven't tried the Tamiya scriber, but will give it a shot if I can locate one locally.
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The majority of the time I scribe panel lines to deepen them, it raises the surrounding areas a bit. I like to use a sanding stick as a scale "long board" to true up panels on either side of the line that was scribed before paint. You won't be able to take care of this detail after paint, and depending on how much distortion you see in the plastic surrounding your scribed panel lines it may end up requiring some sanding and a repaint to look correct under subsequent coats.
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Dry pearl pigments will show best in clear coats or in transparent paints like pure candy colours. They will show a little bit in translucent metallic paints, but the effects will be subdued. Opaque paints will cover up any pearl additives you might stir into them and be a waste of time.
If you will be spraying a white lacquer base, a compatible lacquer clear will be the best medium to carry the pearl pigments over top of that.
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I believe a .7 tip should do the job, as long as your clear is thinned properly to flow out without pooling/running and you don't overload it with flake (which can give a textured finish if you use too much). Some test sprays on a scrap body should help you dial in how much pearl is too much without using your model as a test bed.
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If you have an air brush, you can add your own pearl powder to Tamiya clear.
You can get different pearl powders from Michaels, Hobby Lobby or even Amazon in a variety of colours and flake sizes. My recommendation would be to start off with less powder per paint jar of clear than you think you will need, and build it up in coats rather than try to get the effect with one heavy pearl-laden coat.
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I am really liking that paint job, along with the combo for the interior colour. Nice work so far.
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LP ;fe
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Edit- disregard. Cat on keyboard
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Love your '32. Great job bringing it across home plate.
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https://www.scalemates.com/kits/mpc-1-0746-scavenger--1014935
I built a previous version of that kit back when it was a new release- at least in my kit, the hood sat right when flipped up, but all of the MPC flip front kits from the era ('57 chevy, '57 Corvette, Datsun and Ford pickups) had fiddly hinges that had to be installed right for the hood to sit properly...I built them all.
IIRC, the Datsun, Chevy and Ford all had the same generic frame assembly. The hinges had oversized holes that locate to pins on the front of the frame and had a fair margin of error, but if installed correctly the hood would sit properly at the cowl. If there is flash on your hinges, you could use that to your advantage for a more precise fit.
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I do believe you're right...there is a detail in the 3 window wheel well stamping just above the frame rail (usually hidden behind the rear wheel) that I hadn't noticed before. On 5 windows and roadsters, the wheel well is more visible when built as a hi-boy, and the Revell flat wheel well in the kit doesn't quite look right. Now that my curiosity has been piqued, I need to see what the same part looks like on a real steel tudor sedan also.
I hear what you are saying about the non-OEM hemi. The next time I work on one of Revell's 3 window deuces I will try to incorporate that to get that detail right. We all know it's plastic, but the period I usually shoot for with a build is before fiberglass replica bodies existed, and it is satisfying to give the model a "real steel" look by sneaking in extra detail that isn't in the box. Your build is certainly looking the part.
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3 hours ago, CabDriver said:
Happy Monday y’all! Super cold here, which made for a long tiring day (sub zero temperatures most of this week, on top of a bunch of snow we got over the weekend…) but got a little done at the bench tonight…
First up, started working thru painting some metal parts. As I sorted through the parts I realized I wanted more of them to be chrome than I’d originally realized…gotta lay some clear on a load of little bits and get them smooth for some nice shine…
Rear axle is aluminum tho, and will be masked and painted with some different shades this week to add to the realism, the old T leaf spring will be steel, as will the rear brake drums, another aluminum shade for the Moon gas pedal and some other colors for a couple of other pieces…it’s fun mixing and matching different metalizer products for different looks:
Something I heard from an artist whose work I follow recently was “you’re probably not using reference material as much as you should be”. He was speaking to ‘regular’ artists, people who draw and paint, but I’ve been thinking on that a lot recently and making sure to collect a lot of reference pics even when I think I know how a part should look…here’s some I gathered as reference for future detailing on that quick change, for example:
https://public.fotki.com/NewYorkSpeedShop/11-cars/reference-material/quick-change-axles/
Next up, I had in my head that those headlamps would have pinstriping and be painted, even if nothing much else above the frame is, so I went through my stash of decals just for a change of pace this evening. I was trying to find a couple of small decals with an arc to them to somewhat mirror the curve of those headers I was messing with yesterday, for some visual symmetry when the car’s viewed from above.
Went through a bunch before finding a couple on the Revell kit decal sheet that did exactly that - doh! Should’ve started there 🙄
Theyre still wet and snuggling down with the decal solution right now, but they laid down ok…And finally, I made a start on the inner rear fenders tonight. I’m sure you all know what the flat Revell kit pieces look like, but I wanted to add some detail to make them look more like a real set:
Nothing for it but to get the files out and start carving away material…
Excuse the roughness, they’re not finished yet, but I didn’t achieve much this evening and they were an extra thing to show for my time at the bench 🤪
Thanks for looking, more soon, soon as I’ve done more!
If there is a '32 expert that can correct me, I'm all ears. The '32 5 window and and roadster had wheel wells like in your attached image. I believe 3 windows and sedans actually had flat wheel wells (more like what is represented in Revell's kits).
I started mastering a pair years ago for the roadster with the intention of casting multiples in resin, but the work was sidelined by work of the paid variety.
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Thunderbolt air cleaner
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
While it won't be exactly 100%, you can break down the air cleaner into simpler shapes to scratch build.
Start with some thick flat styrene to form the bulk of the air cleaner body. Use some Evergreen boxcar siding cut and sanded to replicate the finned portion on top. Laminate together with liquid cement and let dry for a few weeks. Once dry, continue shaping with a razor saw and files. You can refine the shape with flexi-files and sandpaper. Carefully drill two holes for the bosses where the hold down nuts locate, and insert styrene rod that matches the size of your holes from the underside and secure with liquid cement underneath. Flatten the tops of the rods where they protrude above the box car siding, then drill the styrene rod for your choice of fasteners. You can use a panel scriber to deepen the ribs on the top of your air cleaner. A small ball cutter bit chucked in a Dremel will allow you to hollow out the air cleaner underneath to sit down on top of your carbs. Finish with your preferred primer- the primer will cover some of the work where your individual shapes were glued together before applying your preferred aluminum paint.