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Posts posted by gman

  1. Yes, the cigarette foil is good stuff with many uses. I scratchbuilt a master for some '37 Ford bullet-style tail lights and cast them in resin years ago, and used the textured foil as reflectors epoxied onto the back of the lenses. It gave a nice sparkled texture when seen through the red lenses.

    Heating that type of foil with a lighter usually allows separating the paper from the foil- you want to let the flame lick the paper side until the paper just starts to pull away on a corner and then gently peel the paper back onto itself.

  2. 21 hours ago, Roadrunner said:

    I was already thinking white interior (actually an off-white) with black carpet and dash.

    Tamiya Racing White with an over coat of semi-gloss lacquer would look great in that role. 

    I agree that either of those greens would look very sharp. 

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  3. I have used metallics for interiors multiple times. One of my favourites was Testors' discontinued jet exhaust metalizer covered with semi gloss for a nice "not quite black" interior tone.

    If the 2 tone vinyl is what you are going for, Tamiya TS aerosol light + dark gunmetal might do the trick. Dusting on the color coats from a distance will probably be best. Hit them with semi-gloss lacquer afterwards and it will tone down the metallics for a more in-scale vinyl look.

    Screen Shot 2023-11-05 at 12.06.52 PM.png

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  4. 8 hours ago, Roadrunner said:

    I'll soon be starting a '32 Ford sedan, and things like the bar across the radiator front, needs to have mold parting lines sanded smooth, and of course this will also strip the chrome right off. So I'm looking for methods, short of sending the parts to a chroming shop, to allow me to do it myself.

    Are you talking about the spreader bar that goes between the front frame horns? If so, cut a section of aluminum tubing to fit, polish it and replace the kit part completely.

  5. I find something to appreciate about each of your model's evolutionary stages.

    Long before Revell brought out their modern versions of the '32, I appreciated the AMT with all of its quirks. While it certainly pigeon holes the type of build you can make "out of the box" with their choices of sectioned bodies on their '32 variants (something that became apparent after Revell nailed the body dimensions), if that is the style of vehicle you are planning on building it does it well. I have a few AMT '29 and '32 builds I did in my youth that I look back on building fondly, and seeing as mine did not survive I wouldn't mind taking another crack at them one day with the same kits. It is nice to live vicariously through your (re)build.

  6. 1) start with as many great reference photos of the subject you are building as possible (know your subject)

    2) think in terms of what you will need to create as many of those "not in the box" details as possible on your chosen kit

    3) collect as many materials as possible (aftermarket, repurposed bits and pieces, spare parts) that will help you replicate those details

    4) tackle your build and detailing in a methodical way that allows those extras to be added where they show and won't be messed up by building subsequent parts of the kit


    A good way to start is by mastering "box stock," and then you can get into adding basic details common to most vehicles, like spark plug wiring, hoses, labels, markings, correct colors as you learn about vehicles in general and the one you are building specifically. As you start to get proficient with those extra details, you can add more and improve kit parts to better replicate the subject. As someone else has mentioned, jumping in with too much extra detail right out of the gate is a good way to stall an otherwise complete-able project and discourage yourself in the process. Pick some extra details you'd like to add to a kit, get it across the finish line, and then think in terms of what else you can add to the next one as you start to learn about that next project and its 1:1 counterpart. Building models is an evolution, so don't expect to super detail one until you are both familiar with the subject and what you can add to the model that will look convincing.

    One thing I started doing early on was to buy two kits of a subject I was going to build- you can separate and break down parts molded together in the box into single components for detail painting and better realism. Examples of this would be shaving off pieces molded to the firewall and inner fenders like wiper and blower motors, relays, regulators and other underhood details and grafting in parts removed from your second kit after detail painting them. You can do the same with suspension and chassis pieces that were originally molded into one assembly in the box. Another would be breaking down interior or engine components into separate parts and painting them separately before gluing them back together. While I know that buying multiples gets expensive at today's kit prices, you can coax more detail out of a model by doing so. Once you've mastered that, you may find you can scratch build individual parts of the vehicle more convincingly out of styrene stock, metal stock or other materials you have laying around. A good example of this is to replace kit driveshafts with shaped and painted aluminum or brass tubing, and gluing the kit u-joints to your new, perfectly round driveshaft. You can do the same with shock absorbers.

  7. Enamels have a "re-coat" window- you spray, they (somewhat) cure to the point additional coats can be applied without adverse reactions. Don't confuse enamel curing time with actual drying time. Some enamels may take months and months to fully dry to the point they stand up to handling. 

    Is the primer an enamel? If so, I'd seek out a lacquer primer instead which can be over coated with enamel if you strongly feel you want to use enamels. A lacquer primer will truly dry and do so quickly, and will be able to stand up to the solvents in enamel paints and provide a good foundation.

  8. The issue was 100% corrected for the Del Ray. Early issues of the Nomad had too large an apron behind the bumper, requiring some re-engineering of the apron to get the front bumper in the proper position- I haven't had a re-issue of the Nomad in my hands to compare against the original issue.

    For someone who has both an early issue and the reissue, it would be interesting to see some photos illustrating the difference in front bumper parts.

  9. Wow. Looks like someone was paying attention in "classic Model A hot rod" school, and then went for bonus points in perfect execution of finishes. I love the green, love the flathead and the megaphone headers. Great job on this.

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  10. 10 hours ago, CabDriver said:

    I use that same airbrush, and I like them.  I can get decent quality finishes with mine, I think:





    I would buy that same airbrush with a better compressor, like this:


    In fact, that's exactly what I bought, and it works well for the majority of my projects...not the fanciest setup, but user friendly and not super expensive

    Why yes- yes you can ;) (I am familiar with your work)

    I have zero experience with the airbrush OP linked, so I thank you for weighing in. 

    I was thinking about upgrading my airbrush one day, not to replace the old trusty Paasche but to add an extra tool to the tool box. Unfortunately, the one calling to me is somewhat more expensive but I'm hoping the fan pattern does the trick for painting bodies.


    While I won't pull the trigger on one immediately (more of a want vs need), there are a few users here on the forum who seem to like them. 

  11. That link gets you just the air brush- you'll also need a jar, a lid (that holds the siphon tube) a hose and an air source. The kit includes all of those pieces minus the air source, and while it costs more it is a made-in-US product that will withstand some use over many years. 


  12. "Good" is a relative term. Is the one in your link an affordable air brush? Yes, but how good it is remains to be seen. It looks like a knock-off product.

    If your budget is truly $40,  you won't be able to get an air brush from most of the name brands typically regarded as good quality/entry level. I bought a Paasche VL kit many years ago (early 80's) for $69 and that sucker still works to this day. While there are certainly better air brushes than mine, I have definitely got my money's worth, with the added bonus that if I need a part it is still available and failure of a single part doesn't render it trash. The same Paasche VL is available minus accessories with a #3 tip for not much more than the one in your link:


  13. There are many lacquer thinners. You'll want to choose one that is designed to work with the lacquer paint you choose, and the conditions you'll be spraying it in. Enamel thinner is not appropriate for use with lacquers. If you go with a pre-thinned (ready to spray) lacquer, you'll only need some hardware store lacquer thinner for clean up of your air brush.

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