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Posts posted by gman

  1. Alcad is airbrush only. As far as I know there isn't a spray can paaint that will do chrome correctly.




    ^^ Use this over the aerosol black base coat from the same manufacturer...those without access to an airbrush will get results similar to Alclad II with a spray can. It's a pretty good finish, though there are some that say the airbrush method with Alclad offers superior results.

  2. Did Revell buy the dies to the old Testors kit, or is this Revell's own?

    I remember when the Testors '48 Ford convertible came out in the sixties. The notice on the box: "For advanced model builders" scared me out of buying it, but I should have bought it anyway.

    It is Revell's own...I have a few of the IMC/Testors kits and they don't hold a candle to the Revell offerings (plus both of my IMC/Testors kits- coupe and convertible- came with broken parts in the new, factory shrink-wrapped boxes).

  3. Is it possible to mix the Metalizer with each other?

    If you're talking about mixing Testors Metalizers with other brands, I'd say "not a good idea" so you don't get a congealed mess of paint clogging your airbrush if you have an adverse reaction, but mixing various colors within the same line is fine.

    I routinely mix Metalizer brass with various other colors of Metalizer to simulate the plating on master cylinder boosters and carburetors. The buffing varieties should only be mixed with other buffing varieties if you intend to buff the finished product, but if you'll be leaving it as-sprayed then it doesn't matter so much as it will be mostly used as a tint. Mixing these colors is a great way to add different tones to metallic surfaces and make them stand out. I've never had a problem mixing these paints and often use an eyedropper to put a few drops of different color in with remnants in my airbrush's color cup to add just enough tint to get some variety on surfaces meant to represent dissimilar metals side by side. Some people do this to get blended "heat stains" on exhausts that are more realistic than just overcoating with the second color.

    I suspect you could mix various colors from Alclad's line as well.

  4. I have used Duplicolor with decent results- it polishes out beautifully and makes for a durable finish that stands up to some handling during assembly when it's fully cured. I'll agree that you want to use their sandable primer (in light coats) over plastic, and will say you want your color coats to be light as well.

    If the photo attaches correctly, this one wears Duplicolor's Nissan Cherry Red Pearl. What I liked most about the color is the metallic particles are more "in scale" than most hobby paints.


  5. i know this is the "new kit review" section, but I thought i'd throw this out anyway. Has anyone done the MPC '53 ford flipnose pickup? was it a good kit? I did one similar to this and had to pitch it because the kit, made by revell, was HORRIBLE. nothing fit right!

    I built the original in the 70's and put together a few of the modified re-issues as well...pretty basic kit with a simple interior tub, generic ladder frame. It shares many parts with the MPC '57 Chevy gasser and the Datsun wrecker from the same period. The built-up kit looks OK and the earlier version with the slicks has a better stance than the re-issue with the low profile BFGs and spoked mags.

  6. 1st post on the forum (great forum BTW)...

    I've done some casting previously, but not an expert by any means...simple 1 part molds to duplicate small 2 dimensional parts. I'm aware of some techniques for 2 part molds, and was wondering- I've purchased a vintage kit (for far too much $$) of the first car subject I built (in '75) and wanted to make copies of the wheels, exhaust and blower scoop to complete a re-issue that was recently released, with vintage box art but minus those original parts shown inside. My plan was to use the putty on the back side of the original pieces, pour the RTV over putty/master in the mold box, then eventually do the back side of the mold over the cured RTV and master, with a suitable mold release in between. Some of these parts are chromed, and I was wondering if the mold making process is likely to damage the plating on the originals, or whether the plating is likely to survive contact with RTV, putty and mold release.

    Is it worth chancing without having to send vintage parts out for re-plating afterwards? Any brands of RTV (or other suitable mold making supplies) kinder to masters with delicate finishes?

    I'm part-way into building the re-issued kit, and was really disappointed to find it was missing the period pieces shown on the box art- the way I built the kit the first time. I've raided some other re-issues for the required front and rear tires, so they're not a problem. My hope was to cast some copies of the missing parts, chrome them with Alclad II, then keep the molds and masters intact so I could either keep or build the original kit at a later time without doing any damage to it. I wouldn't need to make a whole lot of re-pops, but wouldn't mind a few spares should I get the urge to build another one of the re-issues as well (loved that original kit).

    Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.

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