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Steve

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Posts posted by Steve

  1. If your camera doesn't have a macro setting, the best thing to do is to stay a few feet away from the model and zoom in on it. Some camera's can't focus on objects too close to the lens. you may need a tripod for this method though because zooming in will only amplify any shakiness while taking the picture.

  2. Does anybody have a 1/12 69 camaro that they could do me a favor, i need somebody to take a tape measure and measure from front wheel to front wheel wide also measure one side middle of front wheel to middle of back wheel, iam trying to see the width and wheelbase, thank you, ...darrin

    Length is about 10" center to center

    Width from the outside to outside of the front tires is about 5 5/8"

    Width from center to center of the front tires is about 5"

    I hope that helps.

    -Steve

  3. I just looked at the Pocher kit again, it looks like it even includes the transaxle, and rear suspension parts!!!

    I may remove it from eBay

    I think a Three-Window would be bestest, no?

    Or one of the bodies from our late-friend, Mr. George Z's Five-Window.

    Gregg,

    I'm actually in the process of building the Pocher Testarossa engine kit over on the SMC forum, well actually in the process of not building it right now because I'm so busy with work, but anyway, be forewarned that the engine will require a lot of work just by itself to get it to a decent level of detail. It's pretty basic in box-stock form. Not trying to dissuade you, just trying to help you out.

    -Steve

  4. Gregg, (from my experience) the most important thing to remember when working with the TDR RP's is that it's not styrene or resin.

    There is a bit of an un-learning curve required because of that but the pay-off is way more than worth the effort.

    Looks like the TDR partners are following your thread so if you have any beefs, suggestions, questions, likes or dislikes...please post 'em, we are not thin skinned and if we can make a better product....we will.

    This stuff is unfamiliar to many and you have one of the "few" 1/12th bodies out there.

    You are breaking some fairly new ground here and I'm sure there will be a lot of interest.....besides, perhaps collectively we can save folks from making some of the "finishing out" boo boo's we've already experienced.

    I think TDR sould start including sandpaper & patience with their kits. I tend to get a bit ham fisted at times and that's a No, No!

    Gregg,

    I received the email you sent me about this project, and I'd be glad to chime in and offer any help you need. I have a lot of experience with this material, and actually run the same 3D pringint machine at work, so I can help you with the ins and outs of working with this stuff. One of the biggest tips I can give, is that I typically sand down the surface first with a rough foam-backed sanding block, maybe 60-grit or so, and then blow off all of the dust, and give it serveral good coats of "Folk Art Sanding Sealer" in a spray can. It says "For use on unfinished wood" on the can, but it works great to quickly fill in some of the roughest areas. Once that is dry, sand again, this time with somewhere around 120-grit. After that, start putting on coats of high-build sandable primer. I use the stuff from a spray can, but if you have access to a spray gun, you can get the 2-part stuff that covers very well. Then, just follow the process of sand, paint, sand, paint, etc. It may seem like you'll never get there, but I can assure you that a mirror finish is possible with enough elbow grease. Depending on the part, it sometimes can take 10-12 repeats of sanding and priming before it's smooth. Just be careful that with all of that priming and sanding, you don't lose any details. It's really easy to accidentally sand something off before you realize it.

    Also, save the sanding dust if you can, and it's not too contaminated with sandpaper grit. The powder mixed with some super glue makes a great filler since that is essentially what the whole model is, just powder held in shape with super glue. Or you can just use a thick super glue straight on it. It should still sand about the same.

    -Steve

  5. Romell, be warned, 1/8th scale is very addictive. :huh:

    I'm finally done fussing with the master for the body and starting on the mold, unlike resin casting the mold will be laid up by hand in fiberglass. It will be a 5 piece bolt together affair to ease removal of the body from the mold.

    The body has lots of compound curves and undercut areas.....rather than fudge or alter these areas with a "close enough" approach, I'm putting extra time into the multi piece mold. By the way,I got your email and will drop you a line later today.

    The first run of bodies will go to the original investors, at that point I'll cast some for the members of the forum before they go in the catalog or on ebay........in other words, you forum guys will get a "go to the head of the line" pass. I'll talk with the guys at TDR and see if we can come up with a "special" price for members only.

    Sounds like fun. I always enjoy the mold building process. It's kind of like scratch building a model, well I guess it's exactly like scratch building a model when you're working in fiberglass. It will be fun to work on the fiberglass body. I've never tried that before, but it doesn't sound too different from regular resin, just without all the inherent problems resin has. Plus it will keep the finished project from being a 100lb lead weight! Even though I've got miles of "to-do" list stuff ahead of this, I'm sure I will find a way to bump it to the front of the line when it comes. :lol:

    -Steve

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