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Everything posted by randyc
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Painting over chrome headlights
randyc replied to moparfarmer's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
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1967 Petty Enterprises Hart-Fullerton Plymouth Belvedere
randyc replied to ibj40's topic in Diecast Corner
Keep plugging away. Enjoying watching the process -
Wow. nice reply on how you work. I can appreciate all you say.
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Good guesses as well. And yes I hope someone comes up with a color photo. Like you, I keep looking an replying to keep it current and hopefully moving to a correct color. Can't wait to see it finished.
- 60 replies
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- 49 ford
- louise smith
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Go lightly with the Xacto. I have a couple I use. one will always have a sharp point. Other usually browken tip with a more square tip. that gives a sahrper corner when scribed. Use back of blade instead of front. Again, go LIGHTLY at first. Then you can continue as many times as you'd like. Kind of a continuation of panel line scribing. Practice on scrap bodies if you have any? That Charger is really tough on the little trim on the body crown. You did good.
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New1:1 Toy 1955 Oldsmobile Super 88...
randyc replied to kitbash1's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
What a BEAUTIFUL car!!!!! Is there a model of it? My first question to myself always... lol. But htere are diecast convertibles that could be kitbashed with the correct top right? -
Here's my most recent way of doing it which is completely inaccurate for real cars, but works for me. See link. I hold the glass in place and run black sharpie around the frame on the OUTSIDE of the glass. A couple coats usually gets it black enough. It turns out glossy enough to not be obviously on the outside. It's a bit wide, but I haven't been able to get it right using my smaller sharpie. This is just regular old marking sharpie with a reasonably good point. Then I can go inside glass if needed and paint back a little to get complete coverage. I just don't have the skil;s to freehand it inside the glass - always ends up shaky and/or uneven. This gives me a consistent black line around the outer edge. I have done this before paint and after foiling, but before gluing window in. If you do it after foil, you can use alcohol to clean the black off the foil. If unpainted, you can just paint over it during the paint process. So far, I'm about 3 or 4 cars into this technique and still looking for ways to improve on it. I just asked myself... how would SNAKE do this with a SHARPIE???? LOL He's my Sharpie hero. Masking, trimming and painting usually ends up incorrect or I slip and cut into glass where it shows. This works for my builds. Looks okay on shelf and that black line around the windows adds more dimension to the build. Look at photo with Chevy beside the Pontiac diecast and I think it shows the difference even a thick seal makes. That photo is a couple replies down.
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Painting over chrome headlights
randyc replied to moparfarmer's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
On my current build, AMT 59 Chrysler, I tried something new. No photos but looking okay so far. I colored them in with silver sharpie. Then wiped over that to remove some of hte sharpie. Then put a dollop of Micro Krystal Kleer over that to try to make a smooth lens. I'll try to get a photo soon. I still need to run a thin black wash around them too. Anything to make them appear different from the rest of the chrome around them helps. -
Always a pleasure to follow your builds. how in the world do you come up with the extra parts without spending twice what the Replicarz version would cost?
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Looks great! The foil is pretty well done. IF you want to make it a little easier, you might try dragging an exacto along the edge of where the foil will go. Do this before the paint. It will sharpen the edge where you eventually have to cut the foil. Will make the chrome trim a bit sharper. But I think you build is fine, especially considering the issues you had. I have not been able to successfully make new window glass ever. I have the wrong material or something. Always amazed when people do replace it. That was almost my color choice when I did mine. I ended up bronze on bronze.
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Very nice! I find these kits to look great when finished. Would love to have that one in my collection.
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Nice! Love how the Non-USA builders make the non-standard versions of these cars. Love the conversion!
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New hood, wheels, pad printed tires. Mags. I'm imagining Round2 thinking they are going to sell a lot of subpar kits because 1)its a 69 Camaro and they always sell and 2) the extra parts will sell the kit to people needing just the parts. As said before, the Revell 69 Camaro is the standard for 69 Camaros now. It looks enough like a 69 Camaro that a lot of HL shoppers won't know the differences and may not care. I say that because I was at HL the other week and the model aisle was about half people looking for gifts for someone else and accuracy had no bearing on their decisions. Box art was the thing. Doll up the box so a shopper will notice it and buy the gift. let the modeler that receives it decide if it's good or bad. I like when people think enough of me to want to buy me a model - shows they really know me. BUT would rather have a gift card or straight up cash to buy the version I want or the supplies I need (more likely). Supplies don't feel like a good gift to non modelers? Is it accident that HL displays their models with front showing? I doubt it. Look how FEW models they actually have to have. Not like when we older builders would go to the dime store and they'd be packed in with just the end of the box showing. I've built all the 69 Camaros I'll ever need most likely. unless they produce a 69 with straight 6 and powerglide like my aunt, then uncle had. And it should have big/little Keystone Klassics too. Then I'm in. LOL It was a great looking car though.
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- round2
- polar lights
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Paint and plastic compatibility is crazy these days. Back in da day, I kept a can of Krylon semi gloss and a can of flat black by the paint table and would do all those up front and would get consistent results no matter the kit maker. Now you really have to test everything together. Krylon paints with primers in them are pretty awful. Can't shoot straight to plastic without getting swirls show up. It's tough for old modelers to change until we see that we can't go forward without learning some new technique to make paints work together. I'm also dealing with this at work as well - painting plastics on gas dispensers in the field. My guys want to use what they always have and it's not working. The PAINTS are the issue now - the reformulations to make paints more environmentally friendly or the manufacturers trying to make paint have all the features possible. Now if I could just get them to listen to the guy who's painted plastics for 40 years.... Good luck working it all out.
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First Look - Round 2's updated AMT 1963 Impala SS
randyc replied to tim boyd's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Wow. Nice additions. Thanks Tim, for giving us the "skinny" on what's in the box. I bet they sell a lot just for the daisy mags. -
I'm guessing gray/white. Could be a lighter blue or green? Ugh. Red/white letting. Maybe yellow numbers? Blue or red outline?
- 60 replies
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- 49 ford
- louise smith
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1967 Petty Enterprises Hart-Fullerton Plymouth Belvedere
randyc replied to ibj40's topic in Diecast Corner
Nice work. I'm sstill watching this one to see how the story ends. -
When they first came out the the 2LBT version, I owned a hobby shop and couldn't give them away. So I took one and painted it with color shifting paint - I didn't care for the movie car either really. Sold it last year for what I thought was crazy money, for what it was. Still in original box. Just needed stripping back down or priming over. I also had the same Corvette, but it had some issues. If you go to a swap meet to sell and the window boxes sit in direct sunlight , the windows will get warm enough to start deforming (be warned). Only car that ever had that issue. but no one wanted the green vette then and finally sold it was well, deformed windows and all. Not really helpful to ya, but I do have had these cars - look forward to seeing what you come up with. I don;t know of another car with the daisy mags. Plenty of torque thrusts out there, but not many daisies. If you had a set of hte daisies and a set of deep torque thrusts, might could make that work - a lot of effort and money probably.
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Wow. Yours MAY be rougher than mine was. Mine was also missing driver's door handle. Fireball came to the rescue. While they aren't perfect, they do put an object in the place. You got a better deal initially, so you win? lol. I was thinking Arctic Blue as well. Interesting that it didn't match, but good job on replacing the headlight door. I'll have to look but I think mine had some sort of suspension repair needed. And is missing a sill plate, which will be near impossible to find a replacement. And the trim on these is more like Sharpie than foil. I foiled mine mostly I think. Shoulda left it alone. The juice wasn't worth the squeeze really. Good thread and nice job repairing. the Mint cars can be had pretty cheap if you are willing and able to work on them a little. Strictly collectors want them pristine and many don't build, so it leaves plenty for us to repair to have nice models.
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Those Chevelles seem to get beat a lot. Or you have to pay sky high prices. I guess they get played with? Mine seemed to have led a rough life when I got it. Needed repairs as well. That will make a nice thread though - repairing the Chevelle. I might be able to contribute a few things to that as well.
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Those look good.
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Nice! I have the stock version of this one I think. Good to know there are still some cheap cars still out there.
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Love it!
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Nice additions. I'm doing plastics right now but watching what you guys are getting.
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1967 Petty Enterprises Hart-Fullerton Plymouth Belvedere
randyc replied to ibj40's topic in Diecast Corner
Wow. I'm impressed with your ingenuity. I'd have committed the whole thing in a box by now.