OSLRod
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Posts posted by OSLRod
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An uptop request is on the way since my Hurst/Olds didn't come w/one, i got a love jones for the '55 Chevy & '59 Caddy rags, & the '67 Chevelle SS is almost to die for(!); can't wait Revell!
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I got mine almost a month ago & i'm impressed. The body, chassis & frame was prepped & primed a week ago.
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Revell, don't toy w/us like u did w/the '87 Cutlass & Regal donks; b4 i preorder this kit, i need 2 be sure it's 4 real & not a test run.
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The molded bucket seats suck, and my deuce & a quarter's interior has been under massive surgery for some months since i lost the detached inner panels in a fire. However i've decided to refurbished it w/'70 Monte Carlo panels and backseat for the bench & buckets for the backseat inserts, test fitting everything as each piece seems to look good so far.
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I'll pre-order mine ASAP!
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I'll pre-order mine ASAP!
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I'll pre-order mine ASAP!
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I'll pre-order mine ASAP!
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I'll pre-order mine ASAP!
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Steve, you didn't managed to see what scale that the Linburg snap kits were did you ? Then too, I bet George 53 is in 12th heaven bein as he can now pretend he 's a krime fightin KRIME BUSTER !!!!!!!!!! Ed Shaver
The '74 Grand Prix & El Camino are claimed to be 1/32 scale kits but are 1/40. I have a '68 GTO & the Green Hornet car that are actual 1/32s and a diecast '55 Chrysler New Yorker that's a 1/43; so the phrase 'size matters' is true.
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Since the '87 isn't coming out anytime soon, the '72 rag will be good to have in my stable as my 1st Olds!
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The giveaway is the the chrome flash on the left front hubcap wheel at the top, but this would be a nicely produced kit that would make a great lowrider!
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I bought a diecast '48 Chevy Fleetline because of the most beautiful blue I've ever seen since my birthday present: a brand-new '78 Schwinn Stingray; actually I was 1st reminded of a '68 Road Runner my dad worked on that happen to be almost that hue of blue. Great process!
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ditto! I use Duplicolor paints and after eyeing this red so shiny, I'll be revising every primered kit before I lay a drop of paint down, only this time I'm laying it lighter than the directions on the can.
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Great jobs! Are the colors laid out on a white basecoat?
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Now I've got my favorite Mopar muscle of all time, I'm liking the mockup w/ the Grand National wheels for now.
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I'm putting a different twist on my '69 Charger as soon as I get it. I already wrote out a text sheet in my notebook of what's in my mind to do with it: it's gonna be a rebel WITH a cause, if you catch my drift!
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It's something about the rear wheel that doesn't look quite as straight as the front.
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I haven't added a resin in my harem yet but Easy-Off was my thought.
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I thought I was the only one!
I've stripped so many of my kits because I wasn't satisfied with the paint job techniques I started off with when I got back into modeling in '96. -
The MPC cowl induction hood is the doctor my '76 Nova ordered.I think I have at least one of every variation of the Revell '69--a couple issues of the Z-28, the SS convertible, the Pace Car convertible, a couple releases of the BM, the Yenko, etc. Great kit, with plenty of aftermarket hoods, etc available over the years. Also have the large scale Z-28. I have the snap kits also, nice to see. Has Revell done retro promos with this tooling? Haven't seen any, but then again, I haven't bought a new promo in years.As far as MPCs, I have only the molded in black '80s issue coupe and the molded in orange '80s issue convertible. The infamous ones with Pontiac engines. The black one is what was retooled I think into AMT's recent awful Fast and the Furious Yenko with a very strange roofline.
I have the original issue AMT '69 Camaro ht, it's quite nice. Have to build it someday.
I've always steered clear of the Monogram 1:24th '69 Camaros, they seem wierdly proportioned, just like their 1:32nd one.
I'd love to see Revell extend their '69 tooling with a '67 or '68.
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Ok, Krazy Glue, (& other super glues) aren't going to be what you need for something like that. They have no shear strength for one thing & won't fuse the parts together.
You need one of three different model cements, & I recommend having the first two, (if not all three), on hand:
Testors liquid cement, (black squeeze bottle, blunt needle tip): This is one of my 2 main glues used in building. It’s great for getting the glue on a tab or in a locating hole, or running glue down a seam. It dries relatively fast, (faster than tube glue), but still allows time for alignment & adjustments. This can be applied directly to the parts.
Tenax-7R liquid cement: My other main glue. I use this in conjunction with the Testors liquid cement, usually using the Testors for “first stage†assembly while getting the parts lined up, & the Tenax to get the stronger final bond. It dries faster than the Testors liquid, but you still have a bit of alignment time if needed. To put it on, I have a cheap Testors white handle brush that I keep separate from my paint brushes. Capillary action will let the glue flow into seams & the like as you brush it on. The bottle is tall & narrow, so watch out as it is easy to tip over. I’ve heard that Ambroid liquid cement is as good, but I haven’t tried it yet. Tenax can be found at Hobbytown USA & many local hobby shops, as well as from online vendors. Ambroid is at the same places & many Hobby Lobby stores as well.
Testors, (or any other brand), tube glue. The familiar old orange & white tube of Testors model cement is still a mainstay on my work bench. It’s not used for a lot of things, but what I use it for makes it important for me. I use it for applications where a slower setting time for possible parts adjustment is needed, on suspension parts for example. The key is to NEVER apply it directly to the model. I buy disposable paper plates, (never use styrofoam ones, as the glue eats right through them), & squirt a bit of glue on the plate, cap the glue, & then use a toothpick, (flat or round, depends on what I’m working on), to apply the glue to the parts.
In all three cases, you're filling a seam & fusing the two parts together, which is what you're trying to achieve from the info in your post. The tube glue can even be allowed to "squish" out a bit on each side of the seam, as long as you sand or scrape the excess away once it dries. Super glues are not nearly as good for seam filling, (from my experience), & having no shear strength, really don't work for major modifications like you've mentioned.
Go with the first two cements & get a Nic Sander pen, (electronic stores, & the paint sections of most auto parts stores usually carry these), to remove the glue smears, smudges & spots left behind, & your parts will be firmly attached & clean as a whistle!
Now, depending on the way the frame is molded, you may want to consider drilling attachment holes in each of the pieces you have, using straight pins or small brass pins to hold the parts together, gluing the pins in with super glue, putting the pieces together, & then going over the seams with liquid cement, for even more stength.
Where can I find a Nic Sander pen? I bought one from Autozone nine years ago & they stopped selling them. Murray's, Lowe's & Home Depot were no help; all I need are plenty of replacement tips.
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I finally found a skill 2 Camaro: a Rally Sport Z/28; now my nephew can take the snaptite off my hands!
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Starting with 'The Class Of '69s' : a Riviera (shaved emblems, door handles, keylocks, body & window moldings, sunroof, and a '66 rivi bench seat), a Mustang sportsroof on a Cougar Eliminator (why didn't Ford think of that?), a Chevelle SS fully shaven except for the emblems, a Ford XL as a tribute to my father's '72 Lincoln Continental w/ a lowrider vibe & scratch-made skirts; a restripped '59 Impala, '65 Grand Prix, & Revell '64 Impala just to name a few while making bedroom changes to accomodate my kitswhich are mostly in boxes for now.
"Trailer Queen" 64 Implala
in Model Cars
Posted
Actually keep the rims & wrap 'em in a set of Pegasus 5.20 whitewall tires, otherwise your sixfoe is a beauty!