charlie8575

Very nice, Brad. Where did you get the figure? Charlie Larkin

My shop was somewhere in the $22-25 range, I think. I plan on getting one. Remove SS badges, add photo-etch Nova stuff and a 194- boom, instant Nova 400. Charlie Larkin

I don't recall ever having foaming glue like that, either, Carl, and I've seen some pretty messy resto projects over the years. I suspect the original builder simply used too much of it. I'm not entirely sure what type of glue was used, because there were some pretty strong ones then. I rather doubt that Duco cement would've caused that; that tends to get brittle and simply lose grip. There were also a lot more varieties of glue- Testors, Revell, Ambroid, and a few others. As I write this now at 4:04 AM, the body is still sitting in the tub, I'll probably pull it and bag it later this morning after I get some sleep (what a novel idea...), and see if I can get those decals off, as they don't appear to be budging (boy, this kid made a mess of this one), a quick re-soak, and in the freezer it goes. Charlie Larkin

Great job on the lights, I'll look forward to the rest. Charlie Larkin

So, with today being fairly quiet, I decided to take a little time this afternoon, and see what I could do with things. It was pointed out to me Sunday that there is quite a bit of roof-melt from all the glue used on the window. This is a putty-sand-prime-repeat job, I think. I began by running a knife around the approximate inside of the window unit. I say approximate because the glue made the beginning and end of the parts indistinguishable in several areas. On the bright side, the firewall was barely glued it. Kid must've run out of glue. The body is now sitting in soapy water to allow it to more fully penetrate the seams, and hopefully release those hideous decals. The chassis is turning into quite a pit of vipers. It appears that the glue solvents caused the plastic itself to aerate, almost making it into a brittle, crumbly, Styrofoam-type material, espeicially around the exhaust where those dumps were attached by wanton cementing. I cleaned things up as best I could with a #11 and #17 chisel blade and some sandpaper. I'm going to continue to work on it, and see what I can do. Re-examination of the parts in '62 Electra found that the engine/transmission will indeed fit the '64 with the way the parts are designed, with a couple of small modifications. I will still be using the 1966 front cover and alternator, though, at they're better-detailed and more correct. Charlie Larkin

Nice work, especially the taillights. Charlie Larkin

Most excellent work on that, Chris. Charlie Larkin

Hi, Adam. You basically have the right concept. Generally, I find 2-4 coats (depending on the color of the plastic itself) is enough to adequately prime the parts. The Tamiya Mica Blue is a very nice color. I've never had use for it myself (as it doesn't lend itself well to the types of models I build, which are generally factory-stock 1920s-80s cars), but that'll look great on the new 'Stang. It's not too far off from the factory Kona Blue, which, in my opinon is a beautiful color. A word to the wise: with mica, pearl or metallic paints, it's best to NOT sand between coats, as it can make the color look "muddy." This is especially true with pearls. Metallics with a high metallic content, like silver, might benefit from a light pass with 1000 or 1200 grit paper, followed by a finish coat and then polishing with a polishing kit (a set of emery cloths with grits as fine as 12,000, and must be used wet). The Tamiya sprays from report though, need little more than a light buffing with some "light-cut" buffing compound, followed by wash/rinse/air-dry to remove any residue, followed by a clear top coat if you want it a little shinier. As to pictures, please do post them! And post them in this thread. When you've completed your model, you will see the next section down called "under glass" and that's for the finished products. Be sure to take a look at a lot the builds-in-progress around the this section, too. You'll get ideas, and inspiration for your own work. Whack that plastic! Charlie Larkin

Try a fresh blade and a steel straight-edge next foil job; makes a huge difference. That aside, you did a nice job with this. Charlie Larkin

Almost makes me wish I used Facebook. I know Sauder had something similar, but not quite the same, at least from the picture, but I'm wondering if there's another option out there. http://www.sauder.com/Sauder/Craft-Furniture/Craft-Storage-Furniture/158097.aspx Given the price, I hope the other option is more affordable. Charlie Larkin

Actually, from the 1955-56 Chryslers I've seen, that steering wheel isn't that far off from reality. It was that big and stuck back a pretty fair amount. Matt, you have one of the cleanest, most impressive building styles here. And with a beautiful kit like that, I know it'll be in good hands and come out superbly. Charlie Larkin

Hi, Adam, and welcome to the forum. I've made a lot of friends around Chicagoland and I know there are plernty of good hobby shops around there. Get acquaninted with the one nearest to you and make an effort to be on good terms with the clerks and/or owner, they'll make your life much easier, and if you're enjoying this, or simply need a little extra help, there are at least two decent-sized clubs around Chicago. Painting is a subjective matter; as you noted, unpainted plastic looks, well, unpainted. Even if a part is molded in the approximate finish color, for best results, you should paint it. A 1/12 model is BIG, and you should take some time to do some research. Go to your nearest Ford dealer and find a 2010-12 Mustang GT, and get plenty of pictures for reference, as under-hood and the interior, while not exactly like the Shelby, are similar enough to get you some idea of what different surfaces should look like color-wise. If you luck out and a Shelby is available on the lot, take pictures of that instead to make it absolutely right. With further regard to paint, these are my suggestions. 1. Those Testors NASCAR colors are older paints, and can sometimes de-stabilize in the can, even though it's still relatively sealed. I also think that the racing color might be a bit bright for a street car. As Bill and Randy recommended, I would go with either the Testors/Tamiya lacquer products for the body, or, consider trying touch-up paint from the dealer or an auto parts store. Testors offers Grabber Blue, a correct color for both new and old Mustangs, in its lacquer line. Testors lacquer paints are a little on the thick side, but will generally cover in one or two coats. These paints require a clear-coat, but be sure to use the Testors clear lacquer, as other paints are chemically "hotter," and will cause trouble. 2. Primer. I CANNOT emphasize enough to prime your parts thoroughly, using a good grade of sandable primer. I earnestly urge you to obtain Plasti-Kote T-235 sandable primer, which is available at Car-Quest auto parts stores. Be sure to thoroughly prime the body and all other parts prior to painting. The gray primer is a good start for most colors you'll be using on this model. Apply the primer in light coats and sand in-between each coat with 600 or 1000-grit wet-dry sandpaper. Keep the parts wet while sanding, it'll reduce dust build-up and result in a smoother primer/paint job. For your final primer coat, given the size of the model, I would suggest using a final finish sand of at least 1500 grit, which will make it nearly glass-smooth. Your local Ace, True Value and Do-It Best stores carry variety packs of wet/dry sandpaper for automotive use (which you need), at reasonable prices. 3. Prior to any painting, wash your parts in warm soapy water, rinse and allow to air-dry, which may take a day or two. This removes all mold-release agents (a chemical similar to Pam cooking spray), which can cause havoc with painting. 4. Detail painting with brush paint will be needed for smaller parts. I like to use Testors and Tamiya paints. The Testors enamels can take a while to dry, but they cover well and look good. The Tamiya paints are acrylic, and have a bit of a learning curve, but dry quickly; the metallics are a bit heavy and require something heavier than a toothpick to stir them with, I've used popsicle sticks and pieces of sprue. Testors paints will clean up with paint thinner, Tamiya will clean with soap and water, followed by rinsing the brush in 90% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). You might find one line has a color you want over another. Not a big deal. Remember to wash all your brushes in soap and water after you're done painting, regardless of paint type. This cleans them thoroughly. I like to use dish soap for my brushes. 5. You'll probably want to srpay the interior in its overall off-black color. Testors Model Master military enamel line has a couple of colors that might fit your needs. After drying, detail paint the lighter colors, like seat inserts, as needed. 6. Use a good-quality glue. Testors liquid and tube cement are easy to find and work well, but the tube cement can be a bit hard to control, use caution with it. Its great strength is that it dries slowly and can be helpful in positioning touchy assemblies. For clear parts, I really like Testors clear parts cement; it also seems to work well on plated parts where removing the plating might not be easy. 7. Take your time, follow the directions as best as you can, and most of all- HAVE FUN! Your project is interesting- I used to teach high school, and I'd be interested in learning a little more about what you're doing and why. Charlie Larkin

Very nice work on that, Darcy. This will be a very nice car when it's finished up. Charlie Larkin

Add that little bit of black-wash and if your hands feel up to it, foil the door handles. Try a Uniball silver gel pen for the lock cylinders- one dot is all you need. Al, considering MS and I believe you mentioned something previously about a stroke sometime ago, you indeed do great work and serve as an inspiration to all of us. That, and it's always a treat to see your models. Charlie Larkin

I need to find a source for the the Plymouth wheelcovers that are shown on the Gold Duster in the front of the picture. http://www.oldcarbrochures.com/static/NA/Plymouth/1974%20Plymouth/album/1974%20Plymouth%20Barracuda-Duster-Valiant-02.html Anyone have any ideas? I'd like to build a copy of my grandmother's '74 absolutely base-model Duster. 318/TorqueFlite, Yellow, white vinyl top, yellow-gold interior, AM radio and the blower-type rear defogger that never really worked. Gram didn't like power steering, and I think it even had manual disc brakes. Charlie Larkin

Ken, Make sure the primer is a thorough coat. You don't need a super-heavy coat of silver paint, one light coat should be enough, Essentially, by this point, you've only applied about 2-3 coats of paint. Be sure to wet-sand and such as normal, as that will help reduce paint build-up and don't be afraid to use a liquid sanding compound like Soft-Scrub. With regard to top-coat and paint, you might be able to skip the tie-coat of primer if you're either not making a substantial color change, or painting a dark color over the silver, such as black or dark blue, but be forewarned that the metallic elements could create problems, especially if you're not looking for a metallic finish. Like all other ideas, experiment. Try this out and see what works for you. Charlie Larkin

Very nice work. I agree with Tom, unless your intent is to represent a new a/c, you should probably get it a little dirtier. Charlie Larkin

Unless you're aiming for a "shadowbox" type effect when photographing, I would strongly urge you to alter your paint colors a little. Try painting the walls white or off-white, and put a coat of light gray on the floor, along with any other colors to demarcte stripes, travel lanes or anything else you might want to put on. I'd also consider scribing the side-walls to simulate concrete block. You have a good start to a concept, let's move it to be better. Charlie Larkin

Nice job with the lettering. How did you do it? Very good work overall. Charlie Larkin

Oooh....I can finally make a Regal Lancer. Not much different from a Royal Lancer aside from special wheelcovers, but two exclusive two-tone paint treatments that looked GOOD. A nice, deep bronze accenting black or white. The colors, along with the design made it one of the nicer-looking cars of the late '50s. Thanks for the tip, Rich. Charlie Larkin

Very nice work on the interior, Jay, and always nice to see another local on the board. As I always make the offer to anyone in Eastern/Central Mass,stop by MASSCar sometime. We meet the third Wednesday at 7:00 in Canton at Porter & Chester Institute. Charlie Larkin

I like 12 O'Clock High, and wish it was on at a time besides 5/5:00 AM on Sundays. I've really taken to MeTV. I like the old shows a lot better than most of the newer programming. It's actually either funny, or well-written, or well-perfromed, or all those things. I saw the new Ironside last week...I'll watch it again because I'm not quite sure if I like it or not, but I can say this- Blair Underwood, as good an actor as he is, does NOT have the presence of Raymond Burr in this role. I personally would've chosen Vincent D'Norfrio (Law & Order: Criminal Intent), J.K. Simmons (frequent as Dr. Skoda on the original Law & Order and Chief Pope on The Closer and also the voice of the yellow M&M and Prof. Burke in the Farmers Insurance commercials), or, if they really wanted a black man to do it, either Thom Barry (Cold Case) or Dennis Haysbert (The Unit and recent commercials for Allstate Insurance). Charlie Larkin

I LOVED MacGuyver when I was a kid. That was real must-see TV and it's one of the things that made me curious about different ways to solve problems and approach ideas. I really need to get the videos. Charlie Larkin

John, Where did you find that, and do you have a direct link to the full product description? It might not be perfect, but it might be a good solution for me for the time being. Charlie Larkin

A short update as promised earlier. The parts from the '66 Wildcat that will probably be used large portions of the restoration work. A little closer view. As you might have noticed from the background, I went to Classic Plastic's show yesterday (well, officially yesterday now as it's 12:41 AM) and was talked into entering the disassembled mess into the "Work in progress" category. Well, it is certainly that, if nothing else! More will be coming this week. Charlie Larkin