charlie8575

Interesting... Even without the actual factory-installed powerteam, that car is going to be worth a pretty penny. I'd seriously consider building a model of it just for the weird/cool factor. I can't wait to see the results of the restoration. Charlie Larkin

Very nice. This kit, and the yellow Royale are on my "want" list. More pictures of the OO-scale one would be great. Charlie Larkin

Guess this is as good a time as any to learn how to do flocking... And what's the deal with those codes stamped, or as Casey suggests, laser-etched into the parts lately? I'm finding they're actually affecting the primer- right over them I'm getting a different color. Why did they start doing them, and why do they always put them where I can see paint? (Same thing with all the copyright notices....major peeve.) Charlie Larkin

I don't smoke but my dad will have a cigar every so often. Most tube cigars, from what I've seen, will have those thin slivers of wood. Generally, the more expensive it is (usually around $5-7 each,) the more likely you are to find it. Charlie Larkin

Actually, Rich, that wood "paper" is in fact a super-thin piece of wood, usually cedar. This is to help keep the cigar from drying out, something like a micro-mini humidor. Charlie Larkin

I remember seeing Scale Equipment listing that Olds, along with the Sweptside and a 1997-2002 GMC van within the last year. Charlie Larkin

Casey, was that a Revell part you stripped? I'm asking because they had that awful, soft, no-durability plastic about then. AMT was also using some pretty crummy material, too. The overseas production seems to prefer "non-spec" material that can lead to these problems. Charlie Larkin

VERY nice work, especially the patrol car. Charlie Larkin

Nice job, especially on creating the recessed character line. Charlie Larkin

Are the exploding gas tank, faulty park pawl and over-pressurizing Firestone 500s replicated too? In all seriousness, nice job on that. That Sand beige looks like it'll work well for a lot of the tan/covert/saddle/ginger interior tones used in the 1970s. Charlie Larkin

I quite agree. For example, if they did that for the '50 Olds, I'd be surprised if it went over $10. At that price, I'd buy a set for every variation I plan to build- club coupe, 2-dr. sedan (I know of one in the works,) fastback and Holiday. And when Revell releases the convertible, they'll end up on that too. If I ever get brave enough to try building a 4-door or wagon, and scratching up the engine for a 76, I'll buy more. At that price, I can afford it. But....$15-20 each. Nope. On a related topic- foil decals would be an acceptable (though not ideal) alternative. Does anyone know how, or if, those can be made by individual hobbyists or if anyone makes those? Charlie Larkin

Interesting way to set up fins for the '56. That alone may help a lot of people start making 1956 300-Bs. Charlie Larkin

I like. I also like the idea of \6 Barracuda. Charlie Larkin

I remember a black Z28 around here with gold stripes and that light golden-brown interior. Very sharp car. I think I might build mine like that. Charlie Larkin

The more I see of the new Cadillacs and Lincolns....the more I think if I found myself in a market for that class of car I'll be buying a late-production Town Car or a Chrysler 300-C. If I bought a hybrid, the new Ford Fusion or C-Max is the most appealing. Exactly because they look like normal cars. Charlie Larkin

I can see why things were said about the engine....it does look a little odd, but I can also see that when nicely painted and detailed, it'll look pretty decent once installed. Charlie Larkin

So nice to see something different. Charlie Larkin

Those mudflaps could be sold on their own and you could probably retire off of them, especially if you did them for other makes as well. Very, very cool. Charlie Larkin

A lot of them I keep in their kit boxes. Not original, but effective. Some go in the storage-drawer-type things. Some go in Ziplock/Gladware or similar containers. Charlie Larkin

I've used alcohol to thin Tamiya before for the airbrush. It does work. NB 1: Alcohol does tend to knock the gloss down a little. If you're trying to maintain the gloss, I'd stick with their thinner, or if you must, try water. I would recommend distilled water, which has all impurities removed, more so than water passed through say, a Brita filter. NB 2: If you go the alcohol route, use only 70% alcohol for thinning. 90% is too strong and might dissolve primer and I have heard of isolated incidents of it having a negative effect on plastic. Use 90% or hardware store denatured alcohol to clean the airbrush afterward. Charlie Larkin

Hmm....if you've done this before, I'm guessing you got a bad can of paint. I'd bring the can and the parts in question to the retailer, along with your receipt if possible, and see if you can get an exchange. For curiosity's sake, what brand of paint did you use? None of the dollar stores in this area sell paint, and the closest I can think of is the cheap-o enamel at Wal-Mart, which goes for around $1-1.25 a can, depending on finish and color. The paint itself is decent, but the nozzles are horrible, every one of them I've had leaked on me and made a mess. Charlie Larkin

No. This is produced by Motor City Resin Casters, owned by Jeff Ballard. Jeff is a fantastic guy and an EXCELLENT caster- he's on-par with Don Holthaus and the other leading casters. I've met him several times at shows, got to know him when MCM had a chat-room and have purchased several of his products. All have met or exceeded my expectations. His stuff is good enough that other than perhaps being a hair lighter, you cannot tell the difference between his wares and an injection-molded part. Charlie Larkin

That came out very nicely. Suggestion: whether 35mm or digital, you might want to invest in a decent inexpensive point-and-shoot camera. You can pick them up very easily at rumage/yard sales, Salvation Army, and good camera shops for anywhere from $1-20. Charlie Larkin

Remarkable workmanship. Charlie Larkin

That was going to be my suggestion, either that or the smallest paint brush ever manufactured and a lot of tape or other sheilding on the rest of the body. Charlie Larkin