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Posts posted by Force

  1. Seriously, haven't this discussion deviated enough from what the original subject was about...the old tool AMT 1957 Chevy kit, at least I'm getting more and more confused when I try to read everything as some posts are about the original subject the OP posted and among them lots of posts about all other 57 kits made after the AMT kit, if you want to talk about them it's better to start a new topic and stop hijacking this one.

  2. I'ts not likely we are going to see these farm kits any day soon, Tomy/ERTL is focusing on die casts, toys and collectable market so they could as well have included the tooling for the 1:25 scale farm equipment in the AMT deal with Round 2 as they will most likely never use it themselves...I would be surprised if they did.
    Last time the John Deere 4430 was reissued was 1999 with AMT brand when RC2 owned AMT/ERTL, RC2 was aquired by Tomy 2011 and Round 2 ended up with mostly everything as far as model kits go except for the ERTL farm equipment tooling and maybe also the John Deere 310 Backhoe tooling.

  3. For those who don't like to use pre-wired distributors and want to do the spark plug wires themselves in the correct firing order Replicas and Miniatures Co Of Maryland sells drilled resin distributor caps you can use...or you can drill the kit distributor yourself...and use wire of your choice.
    I prefer to do correct firing orders as I think it's a bit hard to get the right look if you do it random, many part the wires in half on the distributor cap and route the left wires to the left side and the right wires to the right side, but no engine looks like that as 2 wires have to cross over to the other side of the engine for the firing sequence to work.
    A couple of examples, if you have 15426378 firing order like on most Ford V8's number 3 and 5 wires cross over to the opposite side, and on 18436572 like on Chevys and lots of other engines it's 1 and 6 that change sides.
    One thing, it doesn't really matter where you start on the distributor cap as long as the sequense is right, because where the number 1 should go depends on how you put the distributor in and it can vary a terminal or two from the theory, so if you are 180 degrees off, you can yank the wires out and put them in correctly in the right order on the cap...or take the distributor out again, turn the engine 180 degrees and put it in right, because when cylinder 1 is at Top Dead Center you must put the number 1 ignition wire to the terminal the rotor arm points at, then the next in the sequence and so on...and remember if the rotor arm turns clockwise or anti clockwise and how the cylinders are numbered...if you get that wrong it will not work.
    Yes we do models and it doesn't matter much as our engines don't run, but it gets the right look.

  4. I'm sorry but I can't see how a "like button" would encurage younger people to be more involved in this hobby and I don't believe a "like button" will make the forum better in any way, it will just result in less communication as been stated before in this thread, and I think "like buttons" are only for people who are too lazy and "busy" to write a real comment....as if that would take a long time to do.
    Allmost anonymous "187 likes" but no written comments is not that encuraging for the poster who have taken the time to do the post with pictures and all to show his or her work to all the members here, I would prefer 1 comment what ever it is over the "187 likes" any day.
    You can call me old and grumpy but that's my standpoint and it will not change any day soon in this matter.

  5. On 5/12/2021 at 12:46 AM, johnfin said:

    So i have a gaping hole in the firewall and you guys rave about how great this kit is. Some have even bought this lousy kit. Fool and their money soon parted.


    No one said it's a great kit because it isn't, but I wouldn't go so far to call it a lousy kit, of course it's not the ultimate 57 Chevy kit ever made and most of the kits made of the 57 Chevy over the years has their issues and flaws here and there...even the late ones...and none of them are perfect in every aspect.
    This kit is not up to todays standard but if you consider when it was originally developed...back in 1962-63...it's not that bad because there are a lots of kits there are worse from that time period, and the old AMT kit is for sure buildable and under my over 45 years in this hobby I have built a couple of these with not much hassle as it goes together quite easy.
    The tooling is quite worn by now as it has been reissued about 20-odd times since it was first issued in 1963 as it has been a popular kit for AMT, so that's expected.

    5 hours ago, BlackSheep214 said:

    This is suppose to be a relaxing, enjoyable hobby. There are ways you could do to make it a great kit. Improvise the issue at hand. Figure out how to fix it. What would MacGuyver do? Perhaps try to swap another firewall from another '57 Chevy kit. Maybe an aftermarket resin firewall. Put a little heart and soul with a side of effort into it. A little goes a long way if you put your mind to it. Happy Modeling!!

    I couldn't have said it better myself.

  6. Some goes to relays and some just disappear into the wiring harness and going through connectors in the firewall with a lot of other wires.

    It's not that easy to explain as you need a bit of basic knowledge about electrical systems and components to know what I'm talking about, so here is a couple of wiring diagrams (the first is for a 66 GTO) where you can follow the colored wires.
    On the positive side of the coil one wire (yellow) goes to the starter solenoid and one (light pink) goes to the ignition switch inside the car, the negative side (black) goes to the condenser/breaker points inside the distributor.
    On the starter solenoid one wire (darker pink, purple on the generic diagram at the bottom) goes to the ignition switch start cirquit wich gets power when you turn the key to the start position, and one wire comes from the positive side of the battery (black, this large gauge wire is red on most cars as black from the battery is negative ground showed in green on the diagrams).
    The alternator has two wires to the alternator relay (white and purple-blue on the generic diagram) and one (red) to the main positive supply at a connection point where several other positive wires go to.

    Remember most wires are quite small gauge except for battery cables and the high tension ignition wires.



  7. 11 hours ago, charlie8575 said:

    A new trend is catching on in other parts of the plastics industry, and it's something the model manufacturers would be wise to adopt, too.

    Many manufacturers of different items are now 3-D printing the moulds themselves prior to picking up a piece of metal and putting it in the mill.

    The purpose of the 3-D printed mould is to test plastic flow, and also to inspect parts. The cost of doing this isn't cheap, but it's not particularly expensive, either, and the extra QA checks will help head off these kind of problems.

    Charlie Larkin

    Well I don't know how the plastic industy works nowadays and what Moebius had to their disposal when they did the test shot of this kit so I can't tell for sure.
    But as most model companies have done it up to now at least is to cut the tooling in metal and shoot plastic through it, and maybe modify afterwards if needed...but that could have changed.

  8. 3 hours ago, Scale-Master said:

    Thank you for trying to get the photos to show up guys.

    I've tried the other suggestions too, but they just don't work for me for some reason. 

    Something changed when they updated the board software.  Has everyone had to change the way they post photos  since then, or is it just my threads?

    At least the edit feature is working again.


    I'll try your way Håkan and see if it works for me.


    You passed the test. B)

  9. On 5/6/2021 at 3:06 AM, 1972coronet said:

    At least those are test shots ( first one a 3-D print ) , so corrections can be made before the dies are cut . 


    On 5/6/2021 at 4:43 PM, Mr. Metallic said:

    The white plastic test shots shared by Mr Metzner at the top of pg 4 means that the tooling has been cut. Not that it can't be changed still, but the tooling has definitely been cut.


    On 5/6/2021 at 6:43 PM, 1972coronet said:

    You are indeed correct ; I stand corrected. Begs the question : Is the stock hardtop's die already cut ? ( asking in-general , not you specifically ) . 

    Yes, it's hard to do a pre production test shot without tooling to shoot molten plastic through. ;)
    So of course it's allready been cut and they have to modify the tooling insert for the body to correct the flaws wich they can do if they want to.
    I think the 3D print of this kit had better body proportions and the wind shield opening looks a lot better.

  10. Nice diorama and models, I really like the old Trans Am series.

    I just noticed the stripes on the pictures of the real truck/trailer and cars are yellow, orange and red, and the stripes on your trailer model is yellow, green and red, and the stripes on the car models are yellow, orange and red as on the real cars...I hadn't thought of that before.

  11. Yes it looks like the img tags doesn't work with the new forum software.

    If you click on the "other media" button below when you type in a reply or when you start a new topic and choose "insert image from URL", copy and paste the url for the picture on your external photo host without img tags in the box you get and click insert into post it will show up, like I did here with Marks picture.


    But the easiest way is to drag the file you want to show directly from your computer to the box below and drop it there and the picture will be on the forum server, so you don't need an external server to host pictures and hotlink from when you want to show your pictures here.

  12. I am the original poster.
    For the record, I have nothing against old topics, it's not that, I read them myself from time to time...but...I don't reply and with that dig them up to the surface if it's several months or even years since the last reply in the topic was written...and if I do, wich is very rare, it's to add important and useful information to the topic itself.
    The old topics are here to find for every one and it's for sure a treasure, but I prefer to leave them where they are as topics from down deep are "cold" for most people who has been members here for a long time...otherwise they would not be down there would they...because "hot" topics stay near the surface on the first few pages in the categories regardless of how old they are.
    Yes every topic you haven't read is "new" to you but for the people who have read them months or years ago they are quite cold and not worth digging up again as at least I have left them allready and moved on...on the other hand, some topics can be worth to reintroduce like if a project that has been sleeping for a while and came back to the bench and being worked on again or something like that, but most aren't.
    So most of the time I think it's better to start a new topic instead of digging up an old one from several years back where pictures in the thread may not work and are long gone, and the OP and others who has replied to the specific topic might not even be here on the forum anymore...if you want to ask the OP or someone else in a topic from several months or years back a question about something...send a PM to them instead of putting it in a reply wich automatically will lift the old topic from the down deep where it was to the top of the first page in that category.

    You don't have to agree with me but that's my view of the matter and lets leave it with that.

  13. 10 hours ago, ranma said:

    The only one real issue with this kit that bugs me is the Chrome suspension part's front and rear.

    It's easier to remove the chrome plating than to have to send the parts away to have vacuum chrome plating done and it comes in the box with no extra charge.
    So I prefer plated parts even if it's wrong because I have the freedom of choice depending on what I'm going to build, I mean if you build a custom car or maybe a lowrider you might want to have these parts plated and if you are building a factory stock just soak the parts for a while in some bleach or Super Clean to remove the plating and undercoat...easy as pie and really not much extra work.

  14. I find "like buttons" you click and it only shows a number of likes because so impersonal and don't show much engagement, it's more like click and forget and don't really show that you care.
    It's a lot more personal to take the time and really write something in the topic even if it only says like, great, nice or whatever, it shows the topic starter that you personally care a lot more than a "like button" will ever do.
    But that's me.

  15. On 5/4/2021 at 6:20 PM, Mark said:

    I don't think the top is chopped, so much as I'm thinking the windshield opening isn't tall enough at the top.  If you look at photos of 1:1 sedans, the top of the molding around the windshield is about level with the top of the drip rail over the doors.  It might be the molding is thicker than it needs to be, it might be that the opening could be filed open a bit higher (say, to the top of the existing molding) and a new upper molding added or scribed in.  Yes, it would be nice to not have to do it, but this doesn't look like a deal killer by any stretch of the imagination.

    Exactly my thought.
    It would look a lot better with that fix like on the AMT 1966 Ford Fairlane kits.

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