sjordan2
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Posts posted by sjordan2
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We awoke to a darker and less magical world this morning. A piece of our sunshine went away. All of us were touched in some way by Harry. We are all better for having known him.
Fair winds and following seas shipmate, until we meet again.
G
Well said.
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Thanks, Bob. Not all of these got into Harry's book, but maybe a memorial website could be created.
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R.I.P Harry!!!
Bravo. But you left out the distributor mount.
Harry and I were very much alike – we never met face to face, but our correspondence online and offline was very important to me. We're both shy and never broke the fourth wall of direct contact, until he called to thank me for my contribution. I will forever be proud for him giving me a shout-out in his book for helping him with car reference. So sad that the Pocher Rolls-Royce shooting brake never got finished, but you can see where he was heading in his 1/16 version, replete with Purdey shotguns.
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I have no words. Harry was my online pen pal for over 15 years, going back to his days at Scale Auto.
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Hi Skip
The shift lever is scratched with a alurod and leftovers from the scrap box. And you are right regarding the parkingbrake ! As I said, a real sh*t model !! The manual said it should be between the seats, but when looking
at my refs I can see it should be to the left of the seat, I wasn´t aware of this at all :-(
The whole kit reminds me of the old story about the blind men describing a camel to each other. The shift lever, for example, looks like someone's description of the original gooseneck long shift on the first 50 Gullwings, only at a teeny scale; the original shift lever was mounted directly over the bell housing and ran back more into the interior.
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Great interior – I see you replaced the ridiculous snaky shift lever. Just wondering about the placement of the parking brake, which would normally be located between the driver seat and the door sill.
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Got it, thanks for showing what you did. Do you have more interior pictures? Also, very smart move to use knockoff wheel spinners to replace the hubcaps, which are just as bad as the grille.
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GREAT work on a terrible kit -- so good you can't tell how bad the kit is. Fixing the grille star makes a huge difference – what was your technique?.
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Hmmm. I concentrated my search on Bugatti but it never turned up.
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Well, I was out of town over the weekend, but got a few more things done before I left. Most of them were small details, but she's getting into final assembly. I'm going to look into the luggage set this week and see what I end up doing, but this is the latest. I got the metal transfer stickers and applied them. They are GORGEOUS, but a little fiddly. It's tough to get them completely straight.. they have a backing that you remove and they are stuck to a clear top layer... you press them into their place, and peel the top clear layer back. You have to really press them in to keep them from sticking to and peeling off with the top layer. For the most part, it was successful, but the 300SL emblem for the dash would NOT stick to the dash at all. I finally peeled it off of the clear plastic top, and tried to apply some clear glue with a toothpick, but the glue caused the paint on the dash to liquidize in that area, and the edges of the metal transfer scraped it up as i tried to apply. I touched it up as best I could, but some of the blue spilled onto the transfer. It was probably just my sheet... the corner that the dash emblem was on was peeled up when I took it out of the bag, so the adhesive was probably dried out.
When you do get them in place correctly, they look fantastic:
And, despite the emblem issues, the interior looks great... just would've been better if the emblem was clean:
Then, I had a few final parts/details on the chassis. I added the final pieces to the engine, and created two myself. One was the ignition wire running from the starter, and the other was this:
I'm not sure what that hose is between the silver caps, but it wasn't in the kit... felt it was prominent enough to be replicated. I just grabbed a spare piece of hose and another little tab from a part. It's a little too big, but at least it's there.
So my chassis and interior are done... moving into final assemby.
The hose runs from the valve cover to the neck at the top of the oil tank filler cap (part B18) that's mounted on the outside of the frame, as shown in your last shot. This is a dry sump engine, hence the external oil tank.
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Dang, that's amazing.
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Beautiful build. The component packaging on these is wonderful.
Does the kit have the piping for the DI setup? The fuel pump is on the LH side but no injection tubing is shown
You'll have to figure out the injection tubes yourself - not in the kit. Just remember, the only way they can be seen is to keep the belly pan clear or removable. Not visible with an open hood.
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That's a pretty good radio. However, it should be easy to surround it with the seat-material mounting bracket as shown in the photo I posted. That's pretty standard.
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Blue Stuff decals offers a nice decal sheet that includes the difficult to paint hubcap and dash sections. They also have the plaid seat inserts that some of the 300SL came with.
There were multiple plaid designs and colors. Please contact me if you want images. I have thousands of Gullwing reference photos. As for dash and hubcaps, they were always body color from the factory.
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Not only do the Rudge wheels look racier and more serious, they also keep you from the nightmare of accurately painting the hubcaps, which were always body color without exception.
The 1/24 AMT kit includes Rudge spinners and luggage rails. In either case, the knockoff wheels can be body paint, chrome, or silver paint, with or without chrome beauty rings. Mercedes offered knockoff racing wheels, which had a slightly different slot design from the Rudges, so you could just put some 2-eared spinners on the kit wheels and be accurate. Here's the way I'd do it, which I think is both racy and elegant: -
The package shelf also seems to lack the 2 chrome luggage rails – one that runs around the upper curve of that area from door to door, and a straight one that runs horizontally across the front of the shelf floor; these are meant to attach leather belts to keep the luggage from sliding. Your build looks very accurate, so I'm sure you have reference to look at.
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Another thing to look at is that the kit supplies radio speakers, but there's no radio or indication of an antenna on the body.
Here's a typical Becker Mexico from a Gullwing. Look at a dashboard photo for placement.
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Looks great. The one odd thing about the kit is the hollow back of the seats. Should be an easy fix. Will you leave the belly pan clear or paint it?
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You suck!!!!!!!
I think you may have confused me with Dann Tier's comment above.
EDIT: I owe John an apology here -- I did not see Dann Tier's diss of John's build and only meant to agree with the OUTSTANDING part of the comment on this one.
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Keep it going, Bill. You're doing a great service.
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OUTSTANDING!!!!!! -WAAAAAAAAY better than Teresi's!!!!! Love your work here!!
You bet.
The 1/24 AMT kit includes Rudge spinners and luggage rails. In either case, the knockoff wheels can be body paint, chrome, or silver paint, with or without chrome beauty rings. Mercedes offered knockoff racing wheels, which had a slightly different slot design from the Rudges, so you could just put some 2-eared spinners on the kit wheels and be accurate. Here's the way I'd do it, which I think is both racy and elegant:
Tamiya Mercedes 300SL Gullwing - B396 Blue - A Holy Grail build
in WIP: Model Cars
Posted
How are you coming? You've been doing such a GREAT job, I'm dying to see how it comes out. And that's from a guy who knows a lot about this car, and I can help in any way you need.