sjordan2
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Posts posted by sjordan2
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We could, but I think the best revenge is having fun with this guy, like a cat keeps playing with a mouse after he's killed it. I mean, the guy came in to be a buzzkill, but if people have fun with it instead then he's the butt of his own joke.
There is no revenge with morons. They just sit back and laugh.
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Superb craftsmanship, especially the very precise chrome trim and paint masking work. Is it Alclad? How did you create the very fine wash or rubber sealer around the window chrome? – It's among the very best I've seen, and something that many modelers overlook.
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I tend to believe that people with that type of mentality just have an overall erratic and unstable lifestyle to begin with. And if they go away it's probably a good thing.
oldscool
I agree. Can we leave it at that and move on?
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Let's assume I want to do inkjet printouts on the appropriate waterslide decal paper (I understand that I should clearcoat this). Before I invest and test, can anyone tell me if the decals will stick properly to chrome or BMF? Thanks.
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So now your saying all kits should be designed to YOUR Specs and preferences?? Why then do you not work for the manufacturers since you are so great?
By the way what was the last build you did? when was the last one you posted here??? Do you even build or just come on here to be overly critical of everything (b/c thats what it seems like lately)
like you so famously say .......... just my opinion.
Man, you're skunking this joint up in every nook and cranny. Grow up or go away.
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This stuff looks really interesting, have you tried it? If it will work on decal paper it would provide a much cheaper way for people to get metallic lettering.
Thanks
Haven't tried it on decal paper, but I would think the required heating could create a problem with the paper (the paper would have to go through 2 heat processes, 1 for the laser printer and 1 for heating the foil).
However, I've used it successfully to create things like a chrome Mercedes star for a horn button and the proper design for stereo speaker grilles. You just need to laser print multiples of your design on the same sheet with the color background you want, and choose the one that looks the best (remember, this requires laser printer toner to stick). I used a heat laminator instead of an iron. This should also work well for creating car radio faces, etc. This process, however, is best for small things and is very hit-or-miss when it comes to coverage of broad areas; the chrome may not stick entirely or could peel – depends on how well the laser toner is laid down.
One project I'm doing with this is a chrome door sill with a black script Mercedes logo on it; just print a reverse image of your design on black paper and the logo shows in black, while the sill comes out chrome.
Here's a company with products that let you make custom dry transfers along a similar method, but without using waterslide decal paper (a bit pricey, though). I don't know anything about them or if this will work on decal paper.
http://www.pulsarprofx.com/DecalPRO/Vertical/1_MENU/1b_Overview/Overview.html
Does anyone know about this process?
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I had this company and decal paper recommended to me by a graphic artist friend of my daughter. GREAT stuff.
They're also a good source for heat transfer foils, which have a multitude of modeling uses.
http://www.papilio.com/metallic%20gold%20silver%20transfer%20foil%20blue%20green%20red.html
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I've seen photos of early T's with white tires and also black ones. What's the story? White tires in certain years only?
As I said, that's an Art Anderson question. But Wikipedia offers a certain amount of illumination:
"Early automobile tires were made entirely of natural white rubber, however, the white rubber did not offer sufficient traction and endurance so carbon black was added to the rubber used for the treads. Using carbon black only in the tread produced tires with inner and outer sidewalls of white rubber. Later, entirely black tires became available, the still extant white sidewalls being covered with a somewhat thin, black colored layer of rubber. Should a black sidewall tire have been severely scuffed against a curb the underlying white rubber would be revealed, it is in a similar manner that raised white letter (RWL) tires are made.
The status of whitewall tires versus blackwall tires was originally the reverse of what it later became, with fully black tires requiring a greater amount of carbon black and less effort to maintain a clean appearance these were considered the premium tire."
I would guess that, as seen in contemporary photos of cars such as the 1910 Model T, the white tire was original and photos with black tires show upgrades at a later date.
That aside, it would be cool if a model kit company would take one of these kits and put the "nonskid" logo pattern on the tire treads of these old brass cars.
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Looks like you're on a roll. Really want to see how this ends up. And if 1/16 seems small to you, I guess you must have been doing 1/8 Pocher. But from everything I can tell, at 1/16 you're getting a much larger choice at half the scale,and a fraction of the price and agony. Besides, if you're a Pocher guy like Harry P. you can take your knowledge and experience and do the best-ever builds of kits like the 1/16 Mercedes 540K.
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Why didn't you mention the "other" most popular site on the Web? Everyone here knows it's scaleautomag.com. The proprietors of this site have no problem with that, and live in peaceful coexistence with them. Personally, I find this to be the best place for skilled, adult modelers – and for a lot more crazy fun.
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Waiting for Art Anderson to show up. Nobody knows more about this stuff than he does.
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If you're talking about curved window glass, you can use the Squadron Thermaform method, which was originally developed for duplicating aircraft model canopies. First, make sure your cracked glass is glued, filled and sanded to a smooth finish, and even primed and sanded. Or find someone who will lend you the part you need to use as a buck.
Technique here:
http://www.squadron.com/reviews/review-sq9003.htm
You don't need Squadron's materials; just thin clear sheet and a good heat gun. Be sure the part you're copying has very solid backing at all points so the downward pressure doesn't crack it again.
PS: This can be a somewhat tricky procedure, so practice on expendable or durable items, such as a spoon, to get used to it.
PPS: Latest news from aircraft modelers indicates that Squadron has put direct Thermaform sales on hold due to low demand. You might be able to find it somewhere, though. But I've used alternate materials, such as a clear report binder cover, with success.
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Found some more nice 1:1 shots here:
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Exactly what glass piece are you describing?
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Way back when, over on that "other forum," before it all got deleted, we used to do Real or Model, and another feature called "Auto ID Quiz."
The object was very simple: Every week a photo of a car was posted, and people had to identify the car–year, make and model. You would email in your answer, not post it, and at the end of the week a list was posted of all those people who got it right.
I'm thinking of bringing the "Auto ID Quiz" back... alternating with ROM every other week; so one week ROM, the next week Auto ID Quiz, etc.
Anyone interested in this?
Great idea.
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On a Mac, you can take a full screen shot simply by holding down the Apple/Command and Shift keys, then hit 3. The image file will end up on your desktop.
If you only want a selected part of what's on your screen:
1. Place your cursor arrow at a top corner of the image part you want to copy.
2. Hold down the Apple/Command and Shift keys, then hit 4; the cursor arrow will become a crosshair symbol.
3. Press down on your mouse and drag the crosshair down across the portion you want to copy (it highlights the desired area in gray). This may take a couple of tries.
4. When you've covered the area you want in gray, just release the mouse.
There may be other ways, but that's what works for me.
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Another good option, which I use, is a magnifying ring lamp with an adjustable arm. Like this one:
http://www.delphiglass.com/index.cfm?page=itemView&itemSYSid=187570&source=froogle
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What paint did you use for the body?
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In "Free Willy," the dad has a nice diecast collection in his office.
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What mesh is that, and where did you get it? It looks just right for a Jaguar I have.
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Ok, I posted this somewhere else but I can't remember where. I have heard to rust aluminum, just wrap the piece in steel wool and stick that in water. The steel will rust and stick to the aluminum. I haven't tried this out, so if anyone does, please post pics.
The question is, are you intending to use workable aluminum material to represent steel?
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Stock cars at a Concourse D'Elegance? If you can enter a stock car in a Concourse D'Elegance, it was either not properly raced, or it isn't a proper Concourse D'Elegance where I'm from.
Amelia Island generally has a theme; many important cars are there for exhibition only, and not necessarily entered for competition.
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Yeah, the real jaw-dropper here is the array of Richard Petty cars (though a Lee Petty car is at his museum).
Ferrari California
in WIP: Model Cars
Posted
Man, it looks like you're nailing this one. The interior looks awesome, though it seems like the valve covers could be dulled down a bit. Keep us posted.