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David G.

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Everything posted by David G.

  1. Using the figures is a great idea Daniel! I can't tell you how many model cars I've built that didn't allow for a realistic relationship between the steering wheel and the front seat, let alone a driver. Excellent work on the petal too! I continue to be amazed by all the detail you put into your builds. You may be right, this level of detail on an N-scale model railroad could drive one mad. David G.
  2. That looks great! David G.
  3. Yeah, I just get a bad paintjob on occasion. Now I have some more things to be mindful of when painting to help prevent the bad paintjobs from landing on me. I'll get it fixed, as I say: "There ain't nuthin to it but the work to do it." I'm just a little annoyed by the extra work it'll take. Thanks, -D-
  4. I actually did start an N-scale model railroad back in the early-mid 2000's and managed to get it to a respectable level of completion. Here are some old photos I dredged up. Opening day. These are wonderful kits and work as advertised. Some of the landscaping. Here's the final day when I was dismantling the entire set. As you can see I was able to get the scenery about half completed but it was always operational. Thanks for your comment Daniel. It's nice having a reason to remember and share things like this. I ought to go through these old photos and put together an album for my Facebook page. Thanks again, -D-
  5. Hello Everybody! "Slow and steady" as the saying goes. The work on the Northrop P-61 continues. Cleaning up the underbelly. I tried to express and brush on some primer. It didn't go as well as I would have liked, so... "Silly Putty to the Rescue!" That should be good enough. For the least visible location on the model, it's good enough. That's all for now. As always, please feel free to post any comments you may have. David G.
  6. Hmmm, you could be correct regarding that Bil, at least in part. The paint seemed to pick up the few casting flaws in the plastic. You know the ones, the ones that can't be seen until some hot lacquer crazes them out on the paint. But yeah, the paint certainly could have dried out on the way to its destination. It was about 39 or 40C and very dry when I painted. It was probably a combination of the two. Thanks for sharing the tip Bil, I'll be more wary of that in the future. David G.
  7. Thank you Robert. I always try to do my best with each kit I build. Thanks Daniel. I too have built a variety of different model types over the years. I even had an N-Scale model railroad for a while. When people ask what I do with my time since I retired, I tell them I build models. And they almost always ask, "Oh, what kind of models do you build?" My answer is, "Model cars, mostly." so I chose that as the name for my Facebook page: "Model Cars, Mostly". I've placed a link in my signature line. To me, it's important to step outside of my comfort zone. It's the place where growth happens. Thanks again, David G.
  8. Hello Everybody! Here's the next update on the London Taxi. I was able to get some paint on the body. Unfortunately, the paint crazed over most of the body. The paint on the hood worked well enough; the body, not so much. I'm going to give it another coat tomorrow then let it cure before I start color sanding. As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to post any comments you may wish to share. David G.
  9. That's a great looking Lowrider! The color and stance are perfect. David G.
  10. I'm glad the paint technique is working out well David. Everything else seems like it's coming along nicely too. David G.
  11. An excellent build! You've certainly done this one justice. David G.
  12. Hello Everybody! Being able to display the radar unit is one of the reasons I decided not to use weight to balance the plane. Until that decision was made, I didn't pay a whole lot of attention to the fit of the radar or its radome. Obviously, now I need to tidy up the fit and function. The nose cone didn't fit properly over the radar unit as I had it installed so I started by removing the radar, which was fairly easy as I glued it in using PVA. I then set about cleaning up the mounting location. Remember the lead shot I glued into the area behind the radar? 😕 ...yeah. That being done, the cover still wouldn't fit properly so I attacked it with my little grinder and began removing material from the inside. Finally! After enough of the inside was ground away the fit was clean and tidy. As it should be. Yes, it took me an entire build session to accomplish this. Well, I did get the top turret finished and fitted too but that only took a couple of minutes at the end of the session. As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to comment if you wish. David G.
  13. I'll bet you're still having nightmares over that one! -D-
  14. It always amazes me what a good blackwash and some highlighting can do, it looks great John! David G.
  15. That's a pretty color Bob and it looks like the paint went on really well. Nicely done! David G.
  16. I tend to do my multi-tone paint jobs in sections. I use a combination of what I think of as "good tape" for the separation lines and cover the remainder with cheaper 2" painter's tape or plastic wrap. I also use Silly Putty for the complex odd shaped spaces. Unfortunately, I didn't get any photos of the masking I did when I built my version of the kit you're working on. But you may remember the '57 Ford I built earlier this year. It's similar to what I did for my Edsel. Additionally, I tend to put only one coat of paint, usually the primary base coat, on the trim strips. I keep them covered for the following coats to help prevent loss of detail. This method works for me and I hope you find the information helpful Jim. Regards, David G.
  17. Excellent work on this Jason! The paint, decals and wheels all look great! David G.
  18. Hmmm, you maybe correct Peter. I'm not sure I agree with you on all the weight being evenly distributed among the three wheels though. I know that most road vehicles have an unequal weight distribution between the front and rear axles. Old American front-engine cars carry about 2/3 of their weight on the front axles. For my old VW Bug, the weight distribution was the opposite. I've also driven trucks across scales and when their carrying cargo, most of that weight is over the rear axles under the cargo box. That's why there are more wheels and tires back there. Unequal weight distribution between the front and rear of vehicles is also the main factor behind tongue weight when towing a trailer. A tremendously important factor to consider when setting up a rig. Even the human body has an unequal weight distribution between the left and right legs. It's not much but it's there. But now I'm curious. I do have a kitchen scale that I think I can use to set up a semi-scientific test. I'll ty to find some time to do that today and I'll record and report the test and results. Cool! Thanks for the suggestion Peter.
  19. Thank you Juergen. I had considered using magnetism but I ended up putting lead shot into the front wheel instead. It brought the weight of the wheel up to one whole gram! This is something I'm also considering. Thanks for the tip Gerald, I'll certainly explore this option as I get closer to finishing the build. Me too. Thanks again for all the tips and pointers and thanks for taking the time to share them with me. David G.
  20. Thank you Brian. That's a great idea, I'll have to check into that. Maybe a piece of 16 ga copper primary. Another great idea, thanks Jim. David G.
  21. A beautifully detailed and weathered diorama! David G.
  22. Excellent construction and detail, a beautiful build! David G.
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