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About W-409

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    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 12/02/1996

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  • Location
    Vantaa, Finland
  • Full Name
    Niko Lindström

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  1. Thanks guys! That has happened to me in the past as well. Now I masked the edges with Tamiya "Masking Tape for Curves" (product number 87177) and have to recommend that masking tape for anyone. Easy to use and works great in curves as well.
  2. Some of the cars I've seen lately here in Finland... '63 Cadillac: Several VW Beetles, but this is the only one that I was able to take a picture of. Renault 4. A common car back in the day, nowadays not so much... '65 Buick Skylark... Very nice '64 Impala SS. Ford Cortina GT. Imperial Crown. Mazda 1300. These things were fairly common as well, but nowadays it's rare to see one in traffic. And a really cool Jeep J4000.
  3. I like to listen music while I'm building but sometimes silence is OK as well. Though many times the music stops for a while as I'm too concentrated on the model that I can't go and flip the record for side B or change it (Because vinyl records are the best). I usually don't listen to radio, because most of the times the music they play is not for me... I listen to '50s Rock N Roll and Rockabilly and '70s-'80s "Revival-Rockabilly" and pretty much nothing else.
  4. And today while the white paint was completely dry, I was able to do some more masking and shoot the black color on the body as well. Again, I used a couple of Tamiya Masking Tapes and then some generic cheap "painter's tape". It's not perfect, but pretty good. While the body dries, I hope I can get the interior completed and then put the decals on.
  5. Thanks Dennis! It's surprising how much difference a simple detail painting can make. And I agree on the stance, some kits sit pretty high if they're built out of the box, this one looks pretty good as is. Today I sprayed some gloss white on the body. Once that was touch-dry, I removed the masking tapes and it looks pretty good. The Tamiya tape seemed to work really well. Now I'll let it dry over the weekend and next week I can shoot some black to the rest of the body...
  6. Thanks JC and David, I appreciate the kind words! I finished up the door panels after painting the bottom parts of the upholstery with black and doing the panel lines with Tamiya's Panel Line Accent Color. Window cranks and door handles were of course painted silver. And I glued the seats on place. Once couple of smaller parts are dry, I can assemble the rest of the interior. The body looked finally like it is ready for paint. With this being two tone, and I decided to paint the white areas first, I had to do some masking. I used mostly two different Tamiya Masking Tap
  7. Thanks for the kind comments everyone, they're highly appreciated. JC: Yes, the rear wheel openings will be cleaned up before the body goes in primer. I just need to do all fabrication work for engine bay/interior/chassis before primering the body, as grey primer will be the final color on this one. John: I've tried to use solder in the past for headers, but I was never quite happy with the results. I've seen some incredible solder headers done by other modelers, but I've found out that plastic rod works better for me. Right now I don't have another project that needs Fenderwell head
  8. I had to scratchbuild a set of Fenderwell headers for the Plymouth. As these Flatheads have only three header pipes per side, I was pretty sure I would not be able to find headers in my parts box. So I made the header flanges from sheet styrene and glued them to the engine. Headers are made from .080" Plastruct plastic rod. Next I'll fabricate collectors for them and then paint...
  9. After that the seats and door panels were shot with a grey primer, which will also be their final color. But to be able to install decals on them without the annoying silvering effect, after the primer coat I sprayed a bit of gloss clear and then I put the decals on place. Fitment of the decals was really good. The door panels still need a bit of painting before they can be installed. Then I sprayed a coat of flat clear to the seats and now they are ready to be installed.
  10. Interesting! I might pick one up when they're available, depending on price and how the actual kit looks. So far it looks good, but it's hard to tell from those pictures as they're not actual kit parts...
  11. Today I got the modification from Hardtop to Sedan done on this '55 Chevy. Next up...More body modifications.
  12. Thanks Mike! The race car is currently going through a big update but we are on home stretch now (new roll cage, rust repairs, new paint job, hopping up the engine and some chassis work as well). Today I got the Ford on four wheels. Had to try how it looks with the body on. As you can see I had to do some fixing after the first primer coat so had to add some putty to the body... Then I sanded the body and now it's ready for the second primer coat. Hopefully then I can start moving on to paint. Front seat had an ugly seam where t
  13. I've bought parts from Ted's a few times and it has always worked very smoothly. Actually I just placed an order earlier today as I'm running low on wiring materials. Great guy, good products and easy to deal with.
  14. Really nicely done Thunderbolt! When I built mine a few years ago I also lifted the front suspension to about the same height as yours. Made a big difference in the overall appearance. You did an excellent job on this T-Bolt. Makes me want to build another.
  15. Really nice job on that Melrose Missile Plymouth. Overall a really nice and clean model, but the engine bay is my favorite part. Nicely done. I have the same kit on the stash waiting to be built. This is a great inspiration to do that.
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