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bill w

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About bill w

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    MCM Friend
  • Birthday 01/28/1952

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  • Scale I Build

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  • Location
    chicago suburbs
  • Full Name
    bill wowk

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  1. Thanks everyone for your help. The last image on Nells250 post is the one I will be building. I'm trying to get as many detail images as I can. I have the Pocher kit I purchased in 1978 and I want to detail it as much as possible. Thanks again.
  2. I need a website for reference photos. I Googled Alfa Romeo but all I can get is new cars or Pocher models. If anyone can help it would be much appreciated.
  3. I've been making molds for 20 years...I always use petroleum jelly for rubber to rubber release. Never had a problem. All you need is a thin coat!
  4. What I have is a Rout 66 Corvette show inaugural promotional model...it's the official pace car. It has a stamp of #157... don't know if that means anything. It came with a checkered base and a plastic cover...it was given to me around 1999. It also has a certificate of title and transfer of ownership.
  5. Dose anyone know if the AMT/Ertl 1998 Corvette promotional model is a collectable?
  6. Thanks David, making a 1/8 scale license plate is a lot easier than making a 1/24 scale license plate. It's smaller than 1/8 therefor much more difficult to make. I started this project 20 years ago this past November. This is the only project I worked on aside for a few things I did for friends. I did think of scraping it... but was urged to continue by some friends. So this is it up till now. It's about 99% finished, still have some minor things too make, seat belts for one... I know there is something else just can't put my finger on it right now.
  7. Hi Peter, basically everything that is embossed on the real plate... I drew in Adobe Illustrator, then had my illustration cut out of adhesive backed vinyl, then adhered the the lettering to a piece of .040 styrene. I shot some primer all over... kind of thick to bridge over the vinyl so that it looks embossed. Let it dry for an hour then molded and cast it. After it's cast I painted the whole plate the orange color, I let it dry for 24 hrs. To make the letters and numbers a dark blue... I took my original illustration and had a dry transfer made, applied the lettering and gav
  8. Hey Henry, these are the three parts that makeup the headlight. All three parts where cut on a lathe. I cut tiny strips from .005 ( 0.13 mm ) styrene and glued them to the inside of the lens, clear coated both sides with high gloss, then made a mold and cast the part with clear resin from Alumilite. The tail lights are made with pieces cut from sheet styrene .040 thick ( 1.02 mm ), then cast with clear resin with red dye added. Hosted on Fotki
  9. To Lee, I'm still thinking of a kit, I made a mold of the body and tried casting it, I did get 5 shots before the mold turned to junk. The parts are less than good, but I will try and make another mold a bit different and see what happens. To Tom, thanks, I tried to visit LSM but it didn't seem like anyone has been there for years. To Rafael, I painted it about 5 months ago. I'm not 100% happy with the finish, it has some bug feet and dust, but sometimes you get that when you paint in your garage. To Henry, you're welcome anytime... but I think there is
  10. This car is all scratch built. I've been working on this model for 20 years. Thanks for the nice comment.
  11. It's been some time since I posted...life seems to get in the way. I've been working on the Camaro every chance I get, almost finished, but deciding on which chrome paint to use. I think I've tried them all and they all seem the same as far as finish goes, not much difference between them. Anyway here are some pics. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki
  12. You can use any paint, just thin the paint more than normal and spray light coats until you get what your looking for!
  13. I use Alumilite clear for all my clear parts and never had a problem. Everything Ace said is true, the mix ratio is 1:1 by weight. Clear resins as well as rubber resins require a Platinum base RTV for proper curing, the Tin base RTV will inhibit the resin and it will not cure. Alumilite clear also requires heat for parts thinner than 1/8" thick. I cast parts that are .065 to .075 thick and I always use pressure and 125 to 150 degrees F heat for four hours and let the mold cool for 10 hours.
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