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Skip

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About Skip

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 12/03/1956

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  • Scale I Build
    1/25

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  • Location
    Port Orchard, WA
  • Full Name
    Skip Ragsdale

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  1. Got the same shaker off of eBay, I love it. For high solid/pigment acrylics or the square Testers enamels in glass bottles you can’t beat it. I’ve always had issues with some acrylics getting the pigment fully mixed in with the acrylic and this always does the trick! I’ve used it with everything I shoot through my airbrush, never had any issues with air bubbles in the mix, but I normally allow the mix to rest after any heavy agitation of any kind. After the mix rests it’s normally stirred gently just like you’d normally do with any automotive paint. I also have a Badger paint mixer,
  2. I’d have to agree, I’ve used some of the others but when I’m using a prewired distributor I like Morgan Automotive Detail about the best. Now for predrilled, wire your own, hands down it’s Norm Veber’s Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland. Both companies put out excellent distributors that are easy to work with, beats drilling, which I still do that too.
  3. How about using something like a painters maul stick or some sort of bridge to use as a hand rest to steady your hand? Sign painters and artists have used them forever, I have a couple of them in my sign kit. They are invaluable for off balance work both sign painting and striping. You can make a bridge with a stack of books and a piece of wood that spans across the stacks with your work piece between resting your hand on the slat to perform the task that you need a steady hand to perform. Another trick with both maul stick and bridge is using a two-handed grip on the tool, one hand grasps
  4. Did this about a year ago on a '53 F100 commission build. I used the 6 out of the Mobius Ford F100 pickup (eBay engine only), to replicate the earlier Ford 215" engine. First you will need to cut the block from the bellhousing plate and reverse ends so that the Intake, exhaust and ignition system is all on the right sides. If you are careful slicing the bellhousing end plate off of the engine block there should only be a little flat sheet and a tiny bit of filler added to the front of the block to square things up for the front cover. I think I also had to reverse the direction of th
  5. Bingo! I have had excellent results using my Ultrasonic Cleaner and Castrol Super Clean. Temp is adjustable on mine so I adjust to just barely warm then dunk the body or parts into the Purple Pond, switch on the ultrasonic and allow it to work. My experience is with a fresh batch of Super Clean that you will have a stripped body in about half the time for really nasty paints. For enamels, lacquers and acrylic lacquers that have been sprayed in a reasonable coating thickness, primer + topcoat, I’ve had the paint dissolved off the body in as little as two hours. Average time I’d say would
  6. I have a center finder from Starrett that does the job too. If you don't have a Center Finder the other way to do this is use a set of dial or digital calipers, first measure the O.D. of the Rod. Second, divide that measurement in half if it was 0.500" (1/2") then the center is at 0.250" (1/4"), set your calipers at 0.250" and lightly tighten the set screw. With the little ledge between the moving jaw of the caliper and the fixed jaw at the top of the caliper, set the rod on the top of the moveable jaw. Next, mark straight across the rod, turn the rod 90 degrees and mark again. The inters
  7. Great job Daniel, when I saw your original post, I immediately thought that you have the "male" part of the punch figured out. Now you need a "female" half of the die to form the cut louver. You must have looked up and saw what a full sized louver press and its dies looked like because you nailed it. This could be accomplished with a small arbor press, (the rack and pinion kind not the hydraulic press kind). Even an old drill press could do the job, I say old because the pressure of punching through even the thinnest aluminum or tin is going to be enough to stress the bearings or likely b
  8. I'd second the Vallejo paints, Hobby Lobby also carries the single bottles of flesh tones needed so you can pick up light and dark flesh tones to mix the desired tone. For the Vallejo Model Color paints you should need very little if any thinner. If you do I would use the flat "varnish" medium or even a drop of their thinner. For spraying acrylics. I know that lots of people advocate the use of windshield washer fluids; I've had much better luck using the same brand of paint's reducer / thinner intended for their brand of paint. Figure it this way, most paint companies spend a ton of mon
  9. Why not use a clear acetate overlay the same size as the decal, I've done that plenty of times with printed gauges. I've had the ink run or lose the crispness of the detail trying to overcoat the gauge decal/printed image on both paper and especially photo paper. It may be worth an experiment trying to use the old 5 minute epoxy trick for replicating gauge glass. I say experiment before using it because the last time I tried the 5 Minute epoxy developed air bubbles even with ultra slow mixing; so I ended up using the clear acetate overlay. If you cut it just right there is almost a pressur
  10. OK, Polishing was probably a poor choice of words here as it brings up the idea of "Final Polishing" a paint job; the term Color Sanding would probably have been more appropriate. Where the goal is to be knocking down the high spots and lowering to the bottom of the low spots for a smooth, flat, level surface. The 1000 or 1500 grit sand papers are the final color sanding grits used before shooting the acrylic. My goal is smooth but with enough bite for the acrylic color coat to bite into and still lay smooth so no sanding scratches, orange peel, shrinkage can be seen. Primer does shri
  11. I've used the Auto Air and Wicked Color lines for quite a few projects and models and have had really good success with them. Things to remember about Acrylic paints: 1. Acrylic paints have a shelf life, don't buy more paint than you will use in 3 - 6 months time. I've purchased some really old Auto Air and Wicked Colors opened them and found old coagulated paint inside. I suppose you could strain it, but I always return it to where I purchased it. (Hobby Lobby exchanges it no questions, as does everywhere else I've bought Createx products. I've got more old paint from Hobby Lobby th
  12. Sanding Sticks - Gum rubber abrasive cleaning pad, gum rubber artists eraser. Deep cleaning hot water a drop of dish soap and a toothbrush, most sanding sticks are “Wet / Dry” type abrasives. After three or four deep cleaning sessions the sanding stick has about had it when the abrasive particles have rounded off and it takes more effort to do the job. Steel Files - Brass Brush, file card. Stainless steel brushes are nowhere near as hard as tool steel but repeated cleaning with a steel brush will round the sharp cutting edges of the file over time. A steel file shouldn’t rust unless
  13. Tom, like everyone else has said the filters will not last as long. I have a Paasche booth, pretty similar to the Pace booths, I spray a mix of airbrush and canned paints depending on the part or desired finish. Not entirely sure about the Pace booths filter system but the Paasche booth has a three stage filter, one coarse pad, followed by two finer filter pads the coarse pad always loads up first with fine dusty paint pigment particles which are completely dry and easily shake loose. So I take the filter outside and lightly beat it like a rug until it isn’t giving off a dust cloud, t
  14. Greg, before I got my pedal speed control for my Dremel (variable speed) I used a lighting rheostat for a long time. Wore out two Dremel motors with it, (from use not the dimmer switch). I used a regular old dial light dimmer switch which I used a male and female plug at either end with a light switch box, dimmer and wall switch cover in the middle. Made from a heavier gauge extension cord, about five feet, dimmer and three feet to the female plug. This type of setup will run lower RPM’s without heating up, at least my set up would, you have to start at a higher speed and dial it down t
  15. A 0.100” rod/tube would be a 1/10” fractional size. Remember back to like 5th or 6th grade to obtain a decimal equivalent from a fraction divide the top number by the bottom. i.e. 1/10” = 1 divided by 10 = 0.100”. Now to go the other way and get a full scale measurement multiply the decimal number by the scale. 0.100 X 24 = 2.400 inches the actual mathematic expression looks like 0.100/1 X 1/24 = 2.400” the numerator’s and denominator’s (1’s) cancel out each another and you are left with the first equation or 0.100 X 24 = 2.400”. Try it with a few other common fractional tube
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