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About Skip

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 12/03/1956

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  • Scale I Build

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  • Location
    Port Orchard, WA
  • Full Name
    Skip Ragsdale

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  1. Bingo! I have had excellent results using my Ultrasonic Cleaner and Castrol Super Clean. Temp is adjustable on mine so I adjust to just barely warm then dunk the body or parts into the Purple Pond, switch on the ultrasonic and allow it to work. My experience is with a fresh batch of Super Clean that you will have a stripped body in about half the time for really nasty paints. For enamels, lacquers and acrylic lacquers that have been sprayed in a reasonable coating thickness, primer + topcoat, I’ve had the paint dissolved off the body in as little as two hours. Average time I’d say would
  2. I have a center finder from Starrett that does the job too. If you don't have a Center Finder the other way to do this is use a set of dial or digital calipers, first measure the O.D. of the Rod. Second, divide that measurement in half if it was 0.500" (1/2") then the center is at 0.250" (1/4"), set your calipers at 0.250" and lightly tighten the set screw. With the little ledge between the moving jaw of the caliper and the fixed jaw at the top of the caliper, set the rod on the top of the moveable jaw. Next, mark straight across the rod, turn the rod 90 degrees and mark again. The inters
  3. Great job Daniel, when I saw your original post, I immediately thought that you have the "male" part of the punch figured out. Now you need a "female" half of the die to form the cut louver. You must have looked up and saw what a full sized louver press and its dies looked like because you nailed it. This could be accomplished with a small arbor press, (the rack and pinion kind not the hydraulic press kind). Even an old drill press could do the job, I say old because the pressure of punching through even the thinnest aluminum or tin is going to be enough to stress the bearings or likely b
  4. I'd second the Vallejo paints, Hobby Lobby also carries the single bottles of flesh tones needed so you can pick up light and dark flesh tones to mix the desired tone. For the Vallejo Model Color paints you should need very little if any thinner. If you do I would use the flat "varnish" medium or even a drop of their thinner. For spraying acrylics. I know that lots of people advocate the use of windshield washer fluids; I've had much better luck using the same brand of paint's reducer / thinner intended for their brand of paint. Figure it this way, most paint companies spend a ton of mon
  5. Why not use a clear acetate overlay the same size as the decal, I've done that plenty of times with printed gauges. I've had the ink run or lose the crispness of the detail trying to overcoat the gauge decal/printed image on both paper and especially photo paper. It may be worth an experiment trying to use the old 5 minute epoxy trick for replicating gauge glass. I say experiment before using it because the last time I tried the 5 Minute epoxy developed air bubbles even with ultra slow mixing; so I ended up using the clear acetate overlay. If you cut it just right there is almost a pressur
  6. OK, Polishing was probably a poor choice of words here as it brings up the idea of "Final Polishing" a paint job; the term Color Sanding would probably have been more appropriate. Where the goal is to be knocking down the high spots and lowering to the bottom of the low spots for a smooth, flat, level surface. The 1000 or 1500 grit sand papers are the final color sanding grits used before shooting the acrylic. My goal is smooth but with enough bite for the acrylic color coat to bite into and still lay smooth so no sanding scratches, orange peel, shrinkage can be seen. Primer does shri
  7. I've used the Auto Air and Wicked Color lines for quite a few projects and models and have had really good success with them. Things to remember about Acrylic paints: 1. Acrylic paints have a shelf life, don't buy more paint than you will use in 3 - 6 months time. I've purchased some really old Auto Air and Wicked Colors opened them and found old coagulated paint inside. I suppose you could strain it, but I always return it to where I purchased it. (Hobby Lobby exchanges it no questions, as does everywhere else I've bought Createx products. I've got more old paint from Hobby Lobby th
  8. Sanding Sticks - Gum rubber abrasive cleaning pad, gum rubber artists eraser. Deep cleaning hot water a drop of dish soap and a toothbrush, most sanding sticks are “Wet / Dry” type abrasives. After three or four deep cleaning sessions the sanding stick has about had it when the abrasive particles have rounded off and it takes more effort to do the job. Steel Files - Brass Brush, file card. Stainless steel brushes are nowhere near as hard as tool steel but repeated cleaning with a steel brush will round the sharp cutting edges of the file over time. A steel file shouldn’t rust unless
  9. Tom, like everyone else has said the filters will not last as long. I have a Paasche booth, pretty similar to the Pace booths, I spray a mix of airbrush and canned paints depending on the part or desired finish. Not entirely sure about the Pace booths filter system but the Paasche booth has a three stage filter, one coarse pad, followed by two finer filter pads the coarse pad always loads up first with fine dusty paint pigment particles which are completely dry and easily shake loose. So I take the filter outside and lightly beat it like a rug until it isn’t giving off a dust cloud, t
  10. Greg, before I got my pedal speed control for my Dremel (variable speed) I used a lighting rheostat for a long time. Wore out two Dremel motors with it, (from use not the dimmer switch). I used a regular old dial light dimmer switch which I used a male and female plug at either end with a light switch box, dimmer and wall switch cover in the middle. Made from a heavier gauge extension cord, about five feet, dimmer and three feet to the female plug. This type of setup will run lower RPM’s without heating up, at least my set up would, you have to start at a higher speed and dial it down t
  11. A 0.100” rod/tube would be a 1/10” fractional size. Remember back to like 5th or 6th grade to obtain a decimal equivalent from a fraction divide the top number by the bottom. i.e. 1/10” = 1 divided by 10 = 0.100”. Now to go the other way and get a full scale measurement multiply the decimal number by the scale. 0.100 X 24 = 2.400 inches the actual mathematic expression looks like 0.100/1 X 1/24 = 2.400” the numerator’s and denominator’s (1’s) cancel out each another and you are left with the first equation or 0.100 X 24 = 2.400”. Try it with a few other common fractional tube
  12. Excellent write up Steve. The only thought I had was, you are following or scribing straight lines so why not locate the groove with blade or scribes then use a straight edge such as a thicker steel rule for more control. Working around tool and die makers for years I’ve watched them do this very thing with carbide scribers. They were putting the finishing touches on high dollar, aluminum and other alloy part applied layup mandrels scribing in ultra fine parting lines for final trim. Even though many of these tool makers had the practiced ability to follow their scribe lines alone, I’d
  13. Bingo! Don Emmons in Rod & Custom, Model Car & Science and Car Model Magazines all recommended using TP for replicating the undersides of Fiberglass Hoods and Funny Car bodies. I've used both rough textured tissue paper and single plies of toilet paper to get it to work. While the first coat of paint is still wet, gently burnish in the tissue / toilet paper (you can either spray or lightly coat with brush enamel works best due to it's longer flash off times). You may need to brush what soaks through the paper so it isn't excessively thick. Let that dry. Next apply the topcoa
  14. Cool idea! Love to see an innovative Mini based build, surprised you aren't using a Vauxhall or even a BMW MINI engine for your conversion to keep it all European. Question, why not turn the engine around so that it sits more in the middle of the car for a nearly equal weight distribution? Having the engine sit so far back in the car would make for a tail heavy handling car, not unlike an early VW, where the weight of the engine would cause the tail to kick out or the whole car to spin in a tight corner. Midmounting the engine would make a Mini handle more like the Street Legal Go Kart
  15. I've always used CA, superglue and baking soda to fill the pre-cut lines for hood scoops tire radius cutouts like on the inner rear quarters of the '49 and '50 Fords come to mind right off. First sprinkle a light coat of the baking soda into the groove then drop the superglue in over the baking soda which works as an accelerant so the area can be worked almost immediately. Alternately talc can be used in place of the baking soda. This filler is slightly harder than the styrene being filled and yields a stable fill which can be over coated with any standard two part automotive glaze filler.
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