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MrObsessive

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About MrObsessive

  • Birthday 10/10/1961

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    Bill Geary Jr

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  1. What Doug showed is correct, and it's one way to get wall thickness. I did wall thickness on that very car, and as I showed in my YT video, I separated the different body parts into sections on their own, and with the body panels in place (don't move them from their original position), I did the extrusion (E/XorY)/1.8mm's). The body panels then get extruded along the intended axis plane, and you may need to do some cleanup along the edges where there may be overlap. Blender can be a bit tricky at times to use, however the more you use it, you become familiar with how the program "thinks" and "reacts", and it becomes much easier over time. Here's the Mercedes I converted to print maybe two years ago now, which was made printable by the method I show in my video.
  2. OK, if the body already has wall thickness and you want to make it thicker, that's next to an impossible task unless you want to do a LOT OF WORK. It's one reason I've taken on designing my own files and my own wall thickness. I've gotten one too many files that were simply too thin, and in the worst place such as the fenders and rockers. The only thing I can show you is a video I did if you haven't seen it on wall thickness, and I can also tell you that Blender's solidify modifier IMO is worthless when it comes to wall thickness on bodies. The caveat is the body MUST already be a single shell file. Dual shell files with wall thickness is a whole 'nuther kettle of fish. The roof can be given thickness BTW-----I do this ALL the time when I'm creating a print file, which I'm in the middle of now in fact. Hope this helps..............
  3. Now those look GREAT! ❤️ 8-9 years ago I ran a thread on building a 3D printed 1958 Plymouth 318 Polyhead V8. I had said back then in other threads on this forum that 3D printing would in fact be the next big wave to hit the hobby. This was before Don and Carol Holthaus announced they were retiring, and no plans to transfer the business. My reasoning was that if a file exist of any particular object, whether it's a car, wheel, model part, etc...........the part will always exist as long as the file does. No need to worry about molds wearing out or getting busted. Some poo-pooed the thought of that, but as you mentioned, the future is now, and I don't see 3D going away any time soon.
  4. It came from this fellow here. I should warn you..........the model is VERY complex, and it's going to take a ton of work to make it printable. LOTS of separate parts this has once it's separated into individual pieces.
  5. Anton, I strongly suggest that with any type of resin, especially if it's the first time using it, I'd run a calibration file/print on the machine first before running any type of long running model. The files are out there online----there's various types to check out, but that will go a long way into zeroing in where your settings should be. I'm one that doesn't like to throw out setting values for this and that, because even between the same make of machines, there's too many variables that can affect how the print will turn out. I can suggest a setting, but then I don't have the same machine as you do, and what works for one may not work for the other. BTW, that looks like one of Andrey Bezrodny's files..........I've run a couple of his before, and I've not had any issues. My only complaint with his files is the file size is sometimes waaaaay too big, and that's wreaked havoc in Chitubox to the point I've had it crash.
  6. No, there were no blueprints. All that was done came out of the mind of yours truly, and what I could see in an assembly manual.
  7. You'll want to check with this fellow here. Chris Bell is very good at teaching folks who are new at this the ins and outs of printing. It's a sub site----he has various plans for whatever folks need, but IMO, it's worth the time to check out. Hope this helps!
  8. YIKES!! Ooooooh.................I hate dual shelled files! I just got an Amphicar file the other day, and the ENTIRE thing is dual walled! I'll have my work cut out for me, as the file is VERY nice, it's obviously way too thin to print as is. The Studebaker looks GREAT! Are those Andrey's files? I thought I saw a Stude on there a while back. ❤️
  9. A bit more work to the T-Bird done as I get near the finish line at this designing phase. Since I last posted, a number of items have been created. A soft top, grille shell, front and rear bumpers, and soon the taillights and lenses will be on deck to be done in Blender. A number of pics...............probably within the next week or so this'll be all done, and then the next phase will be wall thickness established for print. Thanks for looking!
  10. S'more work done on the Cobra, and last I Ieft off, I had the hood done. I've since gotten the rest of the front end done as far as the grille opening, front bumper, turn signal openings, and headlight doors. The headlight doors won't open and close as 3D printing thickness won't allow for that to look in scale once done, but the shut lines are definitely there, and IMO the car looks much better with the headlights closed than with them open. Also, I'm taking some artistic license and I made vent windows for the doors. IMO, the car seems incomplete without 'em, and I can't believe during the mid '60's if Ford had produced this car, they'd make a convertible lacking those. Just a little while ago this morning, I got the taillight bezels and lenses created, and soon will follow the rear bumper. At some point I'm going to have to turn off Blender's mirror modifier, as there's a gas door on the top left fender I'll have to create. So it doesn't show up on the other side, the modifier has to be turned off for this asymmetrical part. A bunch of pics, and eventually I'm going to create a hardtop AND uptop for the car. The original had no uptop, but I think it would look pretty good with one given the car's shape. Thanks for following along!
  11. I only know of one. I've not heard it ever mentioned that there were multiple versions of either car. In the meantime, I did get the hood and those pesky vents created. I have a bunch of pics of when the car was at Amelia Island years ago, but no real clear shots of the hood, and particularly the vents. I took a guess as to how many vents according to the length of the row. The vents are at least made however, and I'm not going to get hung up on every bit of minutiae about the car-----it'll never get past the design phase. ? I did take some "artistic license" though and added vent window frames to the doors. Somehow the car doesn't look right for that period without the frames, but the coupe I don't think would look right with 'em. The next hurdle will be the front valance, and then creating the headlight doors. I won't be doing working features on this except for the hood, but I need at least the cut lines in the fenders for the headlights.
  12. I cannot answer that Andrew. That'll depend upon you. Some swear by Fusion, while others like myself find Blender a bit more user friendly. Fusion is very good for the mechanical end of things where you need to have more exacting tolerances for machine parts and whatnot, while Blender I've found to be better at creating more organic shapes such as car bodies. How difficult or easy one would be over the other is totally on the individual.
  13. There were some other changes, some that weren't readily seen from '55 to '56. The area just below the trunk was completely different due to the new exhaust for '56. Likewise, the rear part of the chassis/floorpan area was changed to suit the new exhaust. The interior had a different seat pattern although slight, and the dashboard top is a bit different along with a new steering wheel. I'm not a fan of Connie kits either, as some cars just don't look right with 'em on, and I did create a print file of the '57 a bit ago, just haven't printed it yet. I don't like AMT's '57 at all. It never looked right to me, especially the hardtop, and I swear that thing is smaller than 1/25 scale.
  14. Why this car has been ignored as a kit is beyond head scratching, and the 3D models I've seen of this car have been-----less than desirable. So, even though I built one of these years ago from a Monogram '56, I decided to jump in and create a 3D file of this car. I got some very good orthographic pics of the car, and then there's of course my own model I can look at to straighten out certain details. Some pics of the WIP, and I'd like to eventually format this to print, run it, and see how it compares to the one I did some 25 years ago. This is scaled to 1/24 BTW, so I can use the Revell kit as a donor. Thanks for looking!
  15. Oh! I've GOT to follow this one! I've been seeing this here and there on ads, but I've got the MFH 1/12 scale kit of this car-----God knows when I'll get to it! Then there's a couple Agora 1/8th's that I've yet to touch/finish. The '61 Jag I have all the parts to build and finish the car, but I've yet to even start it, and the GT40 which I did start is only about halfway done. 3D designing/printing/building has sort of taken over at the moment! ? Keep up the great work!
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