scalenut
-
Posts
642 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by scalenut
-
-
the 5hr energy drink bottles work great for the pegasus 22 size wheels
-
Now for the boring part of aftermarket decision-making: should this gigantic steamroller tire be made available in 1/24 scale or 1/25 scale? How about splitting the difference and making it in 1/24.5 scale? How about both 1/24 AND 1/25?
1/25 seems much more plentifull
-
thanks Art and William.
-
soft balsa wood makes a great burnisher.. conforms to the surface nicely
-
kicker ,,, never had a need for superglue to dry any faster that it already does, or is there a different reason it's needed ?
-
the tamiya high grade are really nice , heres a review
-
its a protective clear coat meant to go over the non buffing metalizers..
-
I use Testors thinner and roll my brushes gently on a paper towel to keep the shape. Testors thinner is mineral spirits.
it's only 50% mineral spirits...the msds is on the website
-
.........made you look.
-
technically none of there are "glues" , they are adhesives( or cements).
-
I have seen the fusion plastic specific paints but don't see a need for me as I always prime the model first , so no need to have a paint formulated for plastic.
I may have to get a can to try tho,, never know
-
Being a 1:1 Custom Painter I don't use any modeling paint because ( I've tried them all) they have to much plastisizers and not enough filler in their formulas for my taste. I am used to having primers powder up nice and not clog the sand paper when I block sand dry. The model paints just don't do what I want them to do because of the high content of plastiziers.
I have found a few rattle can products that perform like 1:1 and can be found at NAPA under the Martin Senior Brand. They are Lacquer based true primer surfacers with a fan spray head and come in 15 oz cans for $12.99 they are # 7283 Red Primer Surfacer, 7284 Hot Rod Grey (it's really black) and they have a lite grey which I don't have the # for.
These lay on so nice, dry fast and sand like 1:1. No reaction to top coats!!!!
Do yourself a favor and step back from the model paint primers!!! You and your builds will Thank You for it!!!!!
If covering major rework maybe so, but there shouldn't be a consistent need to have such a high build primer that block sands off, in sheets of powder for use on scale plastic models.containg fine engraving.
I typically use primer to help detect minute flaws and provide a good base for following colors.
-
I use pro-modeler(flory) wash. it dries to a dust than wipe with a q-tip before clearing.
make the job super easy
-
they are all capable with the smallest needle/tip set , thin paint and low pressure,
-
for machining round objects on the mill you probably need an indexing table and they can run pretty expensive.
or you would need to go cnc
-
pressure and thinness are only 2 legs of the stool... you also have to take into account needle/tip size.
if you have the wrong needle/tip size for the job to begin with ...it's an uphill battle
-
because the talon is a detail airbrush , you may need to install a larger needle/tip .. than go from there .. otherwise you may have to thin too much to get the coverage especially with pearls
-
not all acrylics play well with windex/washer fluid.
"acrylic" is a category of paints containing dozens of formulations.
-
if you have to use a hobby quiet type compressor due to noise issues.. I would suggest getting the best one you can afford before sinking a lot into your first airbrush ,, airbrushes of every type come in all price ranges and are plentiful... however the compressor is the heart of the system and is worth getting one that will still be useful as your needs evolve.
on the other hand,if noise is not an issue, than look into the cheaper shop type compressors and maybe put more into the airbrush.
-
I picked up a few cans on clearance a while back , and they sprayed nice and thin , no problems at all
-
I prefer to compose in vector art for decals , inkscape is a free version
-
I back off with the onecoat cans because they spray so heavily... too close and it pools the metallic particles all over the surface.
....bottom line is- they tend to put out a lot of paint compared to several other brands
-
I prefer bottom feed for larger spray work and gravity for finer lower psi work .
the best option is having both types
-
are you guys referring to the chrome black ? ( I just ordered some ... please tell me it's different)
Airbrushes
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
Paasche H for bottle spraying bodys. and for attaching to metalizers
Badger Krome for everything else
I quit trying to get one airbrush to do it all.... I rather have 2 that each do what they do very well.
I didn't care for trying to spray a body with a fine detail airbrush and small cup.
and both are easy to clean