dwhite645

Good suggestion - my regulator goes all the way up to 200 psi, but the highest I've ever seen it compress the tank is up to 145 psi. That's a good suggestion of putting a 2nd finer regulator inline, one that's smaller and in 1 lb increments. As I said, mine is labeled in 5 lb increment, but I could possibly eyeball it to 1 lb increments, but might be a pain to do. Luis - While browsing around at some airbrushes, I noticed some come with hose and some don't. I guess I aswered my own question later on and saw that some had the direct connect for 1/4" and the 3/8" fitting. If I remember correctly, I think my compressor has the 3/8" npt fittings and also my hoses/tools.

Thanks for all the helpful replies, and Luis, thanks for the detailed info and links. It seems that almost everyone uses a standard compressor, instead of the airbrush specific small compressors. That's good to know, since I already have one. I have a Craftsman 33 gal 6 HP with the regulator labeled in 5 psi intervals. I wasn't sure if I needed one with more specific or a finer detailed regulator for accurate psi control, but I guess I don't, so like someone else said already - I'm half way there. One question though - what kind of adapters would I need for hooking any airbrush up to my existing compressor? I'm sure the airbrush connectors are small so is there an adapter I need to get for that? Thanks

I'm looking for a new double action airbrush and compressor. I saw another post similar, but I have a few more questions and concerns so I didn't want to hijack the other thread. * I've heard that paasche and the ones offered on Tamiyas website are really nice; any objections or any others I should look at? * I'd like to do full body paint jobs, and also extremely small details, do they all have optional tips included - or easy to get? * Any particular brands of compressors I should look into? * What psi should I want out of a compressor and what size tank? Also, I do have a 'real' air compressor for my pneumatic tools. Is there a way I can pump air into one of the portable storage tanks and hook up a regulator to it, or would the cost be the same as buying an airbrush compressor? I've done airbrushing before on many, many models with great success. The only problem is it was a testors compressed air can type, which is fine, but I want more control and finer detail. The cost also added up replacing the cans all the time and the plastic body of the airbrush is really cheap. Thanks!

Definately get any of the above mentioned airbrushes, I've heard many good things about them from many sources. I'm currently in the market for a double myself. I've been doing model for about 20 years now, and I can't say any good things about rattle cans - no matter the technique, brand, or proper prepping. Rattlecans spray out large volume and it basically spits it out in variation. If you mist it out to just get thin coats it takes for ever then you have ugly orange peel that looks like turd. If you lay on wet coats to eliminate orange peel, you're on the verge of having runs. Airbrushes do an outstanding job of nice even, and thin coats for incredible results.

Ok, good deal and thanks for the heads up. Here's the progress topic I just posted:http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forum/viewtopi...6832e16e1#18280

Here's progress so far. Always have been partial to Tamiya kits for excellent detail out of the box. So far I have the rims detailed, the tires scrubbed in, and spent about 2 days prepping the body for primer/paint. All mold seams smoothed out flush, and imperfections filled in. Finished with 600 grit, then #00 and #000 steel wool followed by a quick soak in soapy water then rinsed.

Thanks for the help. I think I'll try a test on one that won't be used, as you said ^, just to see how it reacts. I just wanted to see if others have done it and how the results were. As someone else mentioned, I was concerned about yellowing, or maybe worse, like disintegration or melting. I'll post pics shortly of progress in the "in progress" section towards the top.

Hi Everyone. I have a question on clear coating over decals. Is it a good or bad idea? I recently started a '96 Porche 911 GT1 LeMans racer from Tamiya, and it has large graphic style decals that cover the top and sides. I was thinking of clearing over it to A) prevent peeling years down the road and to give the decals the same shine/reflection as the painted surface. I've never cleared over decals before, especially since I haven't done a car that's mostly covered with them. I'll be using testors clear. I'd be afraid of an adverse effect that the clear might have on decals, if any. Thanks for the help!