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Theo

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Posts posted by Theo

  1. Direct from Scale Finishes Site

     

    Website outage sale.

    Due to a slight website glitch that was partially my fault, the scalefinishes.com site went down for a few days this week. It has been fixed, but there are still some spots that are taking time to come back fully.

    There has been online talk about the site being down, and some questions about us not being in business anymore, that is not the case. If you see any of this, Please pass along that we are still here, and are looking forward to getting orders out and helping our customers with their paint needs. it was just a glitch with the internet that took a few days to fix.

    As a thank you for being patient while the site was down we are offering 15% off for the next week (ends on Friday the 21st). To get the discount, just use code: Stillhere

    This code will work with the already great deals we have going on for this month, and is a great reason to try some of our new products.

  2. Hi Mark,

    Thanks for the fast reply. The surface was still a bit softer that usual, but thought I might be in the clear since the Mr. Surface had held up and behaved normally. The plastic did go through the ringer to get all the paint off. Simple Green soak just turned the outer layers into a goopy mess. Then a rub down with 90% isopropyl alcohol (no soak), finally a couple of rounds with the new QCS which finally got me down to the plastic. So overall a lot of chemicals involved including at least 2 paint types.

    Thanks

    Theo

  3. Hi all

    Got a glue bomb for cheap of the revell 76 van (I think the most recent release). Paint was terrible appearing lumpy and so thick the panel lines were completely gone.  Thought it was just bad paint, but as I stripped it down the problems were deeper than I initially thought.  There were so many layers of paint it appears that the builder was trying to correct paint problems with more paint.  From superficial to deep there was an orange enamel (?rustoleum), then a white primer, then a green (?type), finally a metallic green lacquer directly on the plastic.  Looks like the first lacquer layer badly crazed the plastic.  By the time I got to the bottom I found the plastic surface was quite soft.  After a couple rounds of sanding, Mr. Surface 500 and rescibing lines finally had what I thought was a workable surface.  So laid a medium layer of primer down.  Surface stills needs some work but the issue is that the primer is remaining tacky even after a couple of days of drying. Conditions in my garage for the last couple of days have been in the 90s with humidity <20%. 

     

    Before I do anymore work, wondering if it is possible that the plastic is just too damaged to recover. Any thoughts appreciated.

     

    Thanks

    Theo

  4. Hi all,

    Thanks for the suggestions.  As it didn't appear that anyone had tried decals over tape I gave it a test run with parts box stuff.

    Decals laid down just fine and held without any problem.  I did us MicroSet to get them to settle.  When dry, the decals were firmly in place and showed the underlying tape texture perfectly.  Was able to trim without tearing. Light coat of acrylic clear flat and the final appearance is just what I was hoping for.

    Theo

  5. Hi all,

    Just opened newest purchase of chrome BMF (sticker on pack is "new improved chrome"). I ordered directly from BMF website and politely requested the newest available stock. I promptly received an email from Randy at BMF that he had just received shipment from his original supplier. About a week later package arrived. 

    The product appears to be back to its prior performance and quality.  I have only used it for small interior trim so far, the fells to be back to its previous "thinness", fells to handle as it previously did, picking up subtle detail as well as ever, and no issues with adhesion.

    So overall, looks like everything back to normal with BMF.

     

    • Like 1
  6. Another option to try is using Bondic or similar to gradually fill in the gap in several layers.  Sand back the excess  and blend into the sides.  I have been able to make this work several time. Upside is that it is much faster than a complete cut and fill repair and if it doesn't work you can still do a complete cut and fill.

  7. Hi all,

    Having trouble with clear coat through airbrush not laying down into acute angles. For example where prominent trim moulding meet the main body the clear seems to be “tenting” such that if I press into the angle to burnish BMF the clear cracks and flakes away. Flat and contoured areas are fine with smooth sheen unpolished; and no issues with color coats. Not sure what I am doing wrong. Spraying through a Paashe H with PSI between 15 and 20 same as color coats. A couple of medium coats followed by wet coats until desired gloss as per instructions.

    Thanks for any responses

    Theo

     

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